Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Lilliput Power Tracing? Schematic? No longer lights LEDs

  1. #1
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    10

    Lilliput Power Tracing? Schematic? No longer lights LEDs

    Short version ... many of the mods on the board imply that somebody somewhere has a schematic for the Lilliput 619GL-70NP. I've searched in vain ... anybody got a pointer?

    Longer version ... I removed the barrel plug from my Lilly in order to do the direct wiring mod here. . Unfortunately after reconnecting to the PS (which worked fine) I get no red light on the power led or any other sign of life.

    At one point the backlight came on( )

    I've done many of the obvious things, including:

    1. Checking power (of course). Nice steady power to both ends of the fuse, and 12 (roughly) or 5v at various other points in the board. But no schematic, so I don't have any way to trace power thru to see if I disturbed a trace in removing the barrel plug, which is my most likely candidate for problem.

    2. Multiply reseating the cable from hell (LCD to controller) with great care at both ends. It is of the "opposite side" species and otherwise I think symmetrical. Of course the chance remains that cable or connector got hosed in the mod.

    3. Multiply reseating the connector to the microswitches

    4. Praying appropriately.

    If I could find a schematic I could check the power path around where I did the work and possibly locate and replace a missing trace

    But other thoughts are welcome.

    R.

  2. #2
    mox
    mox is offline
    Constant Bitrate mox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    183
    Sounds like the good ol' misaligned ribbon cable. Make sure your ribbon cable is properly seated, ie. flush with the side of the connector nearest to the IR eye, like in this picture.



    If you watch closely, you can see that the ribbon cable is actually one pole short of its connector. Made in China.
    CarPC status: HW all done, SW needs tweaked.
    Hardware: VIA MII-12K, 512MB, 60GB 2.5", CW-8123 DVD-CDRW, 7" Lilli ts, Opus 90W, BU-353 GPS, 802.11b PCI, USB bluetooth dongle, AverMedia AverTV Cardbus Plus, Morex Cubid 3677
    Software: RR, MM/FD

  3. #3
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    10
    Aaah, now we have two cables from hell. Many thanks! The carefully centrally seated cable (my bad) was a third of the problem!

    So I know some new things. Bad seating (which would be good seating in any other venue) on the led panel cable will cause no operation at all. Thanks again!

    Once that was cleared I got backlight and burnin images (ghosts anybody?) but no VGA. That, as you might guess, was the wider cable from hell, from the LCD to the controller. As many have noted, it's totally quirky, and took no fewer than eight seatings and various reversals and combinations before I got signal.

    Another and new-to-me signal of poor wide cable seating is vertical rainbow streaks on powerup, in case anybody else passes this way. Keep reseating, and watch out for the black retainer on the controller end. It really wants to get lost, and I doubt one can find another.

    Now we have a new and interesting situation - fully functional VGA, functional poweron, but no other buttons operate, no lights on the LEDs, and no IR control. Which means no on screen display.

    So I repeat the request for schematics if anybody has any.

    Absent that, I'll leave well enough alone, except to say that there may be an addendum due to the instructions on wiring power controls direct. I suspect there are a range of traces that carry power; some to the controller, which are OK, and at least one to the LED strip, which somehow is not.

    Love to find, trace and fix that circuit path.

    Diagrams anybody? Anyone been down this road?

    And many thanks a third time to Mox. You made my day.

  4. #4
    mox
    mox is offline
    Constant Bitrate mox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    183
    The left half of this picture from digitalww is probably what you are looking for. It shows the connector on the controller (so NOT the switchboard).



    Ignore the right half, it is part of digitalww's indash housing.

    You may want to check for 5V between "GRD" and "Vcc", pin 8 and 9 respectively. Also, check voltage on pins 1 to 7 -- it should read about 5V and drop to 0V when the proper key is pressed. Measure at both ends of the ribbon cable. My guess would be a loose GRD (ground) connection. Does the power button work properly?
    CarPC status: HW all done, SW needs tweaked.
    Hardware: VIA MII-12K, 512MB, 60GB 2.5", CW-8123 DVD-CDRW, 7" Lilli ts, Opus 90W, BU-353 GPS, 802.11b PCI, USB bluetooth dongle, AverMedia AverTV Cardbus Plus, Morex Cubid 3677
    Software: RR, MM/FD

  5. #5
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    10
    Thanks. That's a good diagram.

    All is well at the controller side, however all of the +5V stayed high regardless of switch press.

    Only the power switch worked


    I say worked because in the course of (very gently) measuring I got a flicker on the LCD, then lost signal, so now not even power works.

    But measurement is golden ... although there WAS a good solid 5V at the controller end of the 13 connection ribbon, I soon saw nothing, nada, zip at the switch end, even when removed. And as I measured a +5v on powerswitch, the lone 5v vanished.

    Which is very odd, since the cable was simple and visually intact.

    Slowing down and using sewing straightpins to test connectivity I finally found at least part of the issue. Almost invisibly the 13 strand cable had flex/worn through just below the seemingly permanently afffixed connection to the controller board.

    Q: Does anybody know if the controller side 13 strand flat cable allows removal of the cable? Is that cable replacable

    It seems unlikely that something as perishable as a flat cable would be permanently affixed to its insert, but no sign of a release, gate or other way to pull the cable.

    Supposing the darn thing is fixed in place and broken ...

    1. Microsoldering 13 connections is probably above my pay grade, but I do note that only 3 connections go to the IR connector, and one of them is ground and can come from anywhere. Any guesses as to the odds of getting a functional unit by just soldering those 3 wires and using the IR remote? Should work in theory.

    2. The other possibility -- observation shows that the switches seem to be simple momentary SPST that pull their relevant lead to ground when pressed. I suppose I could solder leads to a few key points ... power, IR, VGA/video.

    But half measures seem a pity.

  6. #6
    mox
    mox is offline
    Constant Bitrate mox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    183
    Quote Originally Posted by robinpc
    Q: Does anybody know if the controller side 13 strand flat cable allows removal of the cable? Is that cable replacable
    It is definitely replacable, unless your connector is different. Can you post a picture?
    CarPC status: HW all done, SW needs tweaked.
    Hardware: VIA MII-12K, 512MB, 60GB 2.5", CW-8123 DVD-CDRW, 7" Lilli ts, Opus 90W, BU-353 GPS, 802.11b PCI, USB bluetooth dongle, AverMedia AverTV Cardbus Plus, Morex Cubid 3677
    Software: RR, MM/FD

  7. #7
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    10

    Seemingly immobile cable fastener

    Sure, picture attached, to the extent my little macro function will allow. The things to note are (all directions relative to the picture):

    1. On the left there is a black tab of the sort one usually pulls out to remove a cable. It's immobile to moderate force, and I don't want to apply more unless I know from somebody's experience that it's supposed to move
    2. In the same position on the right there is no matching black tab, making me doubt further that the tab on the left is meant to move to remove cable
    3. As you see the cable itself is in pretty awful shape. The actual break in the traces is underneath the cable you see; the damage up top in terms of delamination is flashy but not a real issue


    In addition the VGA won't activate now. What I figure is that I bought this unit used, and it had already seen a fair amount of cable wear; the work I did pushed the poor thing over the top.

    I'm experimenting with micro-supergluing tiny copper traces on the wider cable to repair it ... Arman's site sez he has none of the reverse-sided cables, and I can't find a parts store on the web to stock it.

    I suppose if I had any sense I'd buy another and keep this for parts, but I'm stubborn and relatively broke. Sigh.

    Anyway, let me know what you think, and thanks. Two good cables just might get this puppy up and running. Or not.

    Thanks,

    R.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 7
    Last Post: 01-24-2007, 10:31 AM
  2. Lilliput turns on without any power.....WTF!
    By Zebelkhan in forum LCD/Display
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 08-16-2005, 10:24 PM
  3. Lilliput won't power up
    By octavia red in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-21-2005, 11:27 AM
  4. Replies: 5
    Last Post: 03-10-2005, 08:58 AM
  5. Lilliput buttons light up with car lights on?
    By dtran01 in forum LCD/Display
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 02-26-2005, 06:25 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •