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Thread: Powering a desktop LCD in a car.

  1. #1
    FLAC Skraggy_uk's Avatar
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    Powering a desktop LCD in a car.

    Probably a very Newb question here, but I've been looking at a Panasonic LC40 desktop VGA TFT.

    Input voltage is 14v DC through an adaptor.

    Now as I'm going to be running this through the car battery, rather than using an inverter, and the original PSU, what is the easiest way to step up the 12v DC supply to 14v DC? Is it likely that I could hard wire a laptop car supply in, and just add a plug to connect to the screen?

    I plan to be using GPS when I drive, and movies for the passengers when I don't need GPS, so a good large VGA is optimal, and the 165 price I've found for this screen isn't too bad.
    4x4 in a turbo stylee.

  2. #2
    FLAC Skraggy_uk's Avatar
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    I think I've answered my own question.
    with this .

    11v-14v dc in 15v to 24v out.

    Oh bugger, I need 14v out. Back to the searching.
    4x4 in a turbo stylee.

  3. #3
    Constant Bitrate
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    Have you tried it at 12v? It might work.

    Of course, when your battery started to die, it might stop working again.

    Worth a shot though. Too low voltage won't kill the thing. It also should probably work at 15v, but that might be an expensive test.

    Twostep

  4. #4
    Variable Bitrate
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    If at first you don't succeed.........
    destroy all evidence you tried

    for info on t6369c LCD or Presslab's powersupply check:
    http://www.namms.tk <=updated!!

  5. #5
    FLAC Skraggy_uk's Avatar
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    Thanks Guys that posted.

    Yep I figured that it might run OK, at 12V, but that 15 might blow it.

    I've looked all arround, and all the adaptors for car setups either start at 15v, or end at 12V, yet Panasonic describe it as using a standard generic 14v PSU.

    Marsjell: Cheers for the link. I've had a quick read though it, but my electronics and soldering skills are definatley lacking.

    Everytime I fire up the soldering gun, I worry that I'm going to fry a component. And that is just resistors and LEDs.

    The only soldering gun I have has a tip that could rejoin car panels. It's huge.

    Plus my electronics theory sucks the big one.

    Cheers anyway. i would have much rather either found a VGA screen that can take 12V or an ready made adaptor to cut up that would supply 14V. Poo
    4x4 in a turbo stylee.

  6. #6
    Variable Bitrate
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    why not buy a smaller soldering gun?

    It's the best and cheapest way, if you look at the step-up/down example, the two main parts(MC34167T & mtp3055vl) can be requested as a samples.

    the only calculation you have ti figure out are for R1 & R2

    Vout=5.05 *((R2/R1) +1) that shouldn't be to hard... uhm let me try:

    14V=5.05 *((R2/R1(+1)

    14/5.05=(R2/R1) + 1
    14/5.05 - 5.05/5.05 = r2 / r1
    8.95/5.05 = r2/ r1

    r2= 8.95
    r1=5.05

    so for example you could try 10k for r2 and 5k6 for r1

    it's that simple!
    If at first you don't succeed.........
    destroy all evidence you tried

    for info on t6369c LCD or Presslab's powersupply check:
    http://www.namms.tk <=updated!!

  7. #7
    FLAC Skraggy_uk's Avatar
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    Originally posted by marsjell
    why not buy a smaller soldering gun?

    It's the best and cheapest way, if you look at the step-up/down example, the two main parts(MC34167T & mtp3055vl) can be requested as a samples.

    the only calculation you have ti figure out are for R1 & R2

    Vout=5.05 *((R2/R1) +1) that shouldn't be to hard... uhm let me try:

    14V=5.05 *((R2/R1(+1)

    14/5.05=(R2/R1) + 1
    14/5.05 - 5.05/5.05 = r2 / r1
    8.95/5.05 = r2/ r1

    r2= 8.95
    r1=5.05

    so for example you could try 10k for r2 and 5k6 for r1

    it's that simple!
    Ok. Looks simple enough (lieing through teeth).

    I feel faint from all the numbers. I shall have to read it again when I come too
    4x4 in a turbo stylee.

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