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Reply With QuoteAnd one more thing. Could you make pictures in focus, please?
The other fuse that you think is blown what marking does it have on the top? If some number with an "A" in the end, then it is a fuse. Is there marking on the board next to it that would suggest it is a fuse.
With power on also measure voltage betwee ground and each terminal of the "fuse". What are the readings?
With powe OFF, measure resistance between ground and each terminal of the fuse (one at a time). If one of them read 0Ohms (short to ground) it is not a fuse but rather cedramic capacitor.
And one more thing. Could you make pictures in focus, please?
Thanks for your help again. There are no markings relating the fuse in question to actually being a fuse (no 'A' or "fuse" on the conponent or the board). The board is not grounded, so what do I connect the other lead to? If the fuse was blown, the impedance test would show overload right?
1). Negative 12V is the ground.Originally Posted by Pistolen08
2). There is no such thing as "overload" in impedance. It can be short (i.e. 0 Ohms), open (i.e. infinite resistance) and something in between. There is a possibility that another fuse is a cap. If it is one of the leads(pads) would be connected to the ground. That is why testing the resistance betwen each pad(lead) is important. If it is a fuse there should be no short between any pad and ground.
3) If it is not a cap, what are the voltage readings on each cap. If it is a fuse and it is blown one side will show some voltage and another show almost 0V (like few mV because of noise).
If all this true the part you are referring to is highly likely a fuse.
4) One more check. Solder this part out and measure it's resistance. If it shows open (infinite resistance) and readings do not change (open-something-open) during measurement, it is a fuse. Make sure your hands do not touch the probes/pads since your body conducts the current.
Post the results. And we will go from there.
Ok, with power off, I connected negative to ground and positive to each terminal of the fuse in question. Here are the results in kOhms: 2.032 and 2.036. With power on, I connected negative to ground and positive to each terminal of the same fuse in question. Here are the results in mV: 1.169 and 1.170. Thanks!
-Elliot
whoops, that's MOhms (not kOhms).
Sorry, forgot to mention. #3 measurement (in volts) has to be done with power applied to the monitor. Could you repeat it, please.
You want me to test each capacitor? All but one of them seem to have a significant charge. For example:3) If it is not a cap, what are the voltage readings on each cap. If it is a fuse and it is blown one side will show some voltage and another show almost 0V (like few mV because of noise).
25v 220uF has a charge of 12.38 mV
10v 220uF has a charge of 2.1 mV
25v 220uF has a charge of 11.3 mV
10v 220uF has a charge of 24.9 mV
25V 220uF has a charge of 12.45 mV
10V 220 uF has a charge of 0.0 mV
The one that doens't carry any voltage is in the bottom-left of the board, and has a glob of solder on the negative terminal attaching it to what I believe is the video/usb input cable pins. Since I initially tested the monitor with the DC input plugged into the video plug, and not straight into the lcd, could this capacitor have blown? Thanks so much for your help.
-Elliot
Sorry,
I ment on each side of this cap (fuse under question).
So I should measure voltage from ground to each terminal of the fuse?
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