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Thread: Which fuse should I use at the car battery?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007

    Which fuse should I use at the car battery?


    I think I am ready to install my xbox1 in my Honda Odyssey. M-2 is working great at home with 12 volt power source!

    Thanks to DarquePervert and Soundman, I learned that I will need to connect wires from M-2 directly to battery. Here are my questions.

    (1) When I connect to the battery, what fuse should I use at the battery?
    (2) Should I also have a fuse at M-2?
    (3) Is 10 or 12 gauge wire ok?
    (4) If I want to wire a couple more extra power wires, should I add fuse holders at battery for each wires?

    Thanks for your help as always.


  2. #2
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    1. You need a fuse rated at less than the max current your wire can handle. As far as type of fuse, it's up to you.

    2. No. The fuse on the wire is to protect the wire.

    3. Either should be fine for a system powered by an M2ATX. Most recommend thicker power wire (lower AWG) to insure that the wire's resistance won't be an issue.

    4. Yes. Another option is a distribution block, where you have one larger power line coming into a block that allows connection of multiple, smaller power wires. Some have built in fusing capabilities for the smaller power lines, but you still need a fuse for the larger power line at the battery.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?

    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  3. #3
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    on the border of northern IL/IN
    ^ what darque said.

    fuses are to protect against worst-case scenarios-- ie: your car gets cut in half in a massive wreck, along with that large chunky power wire, the wire shorts out against the car frame, and starts the leaking gas tank on fire...

    or, another more realistic case-- your m2, or xbox somehow shorts out, and starts a fire...

    in either case, a fuse will keep the end device from drawing much more then the cable is rated for, and in the case of a short, will blow the fuse, protecting the car, and yourself from future damage...

  4. #4
    Raw Wave
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    ^ what both said.

    Fuses - generally the blade types are better. Glass types use more than one piece of metal and are more prone to internal breaks. (But blades can have internal fractures - hence always rotate fuses on problem circuits.)

    The fusing rule (aka "protection") is generally "protect what is downstream (until the next protection/fuse)".
    EG - fuse at battery protects the cable/distribution in case of a downstream short (blow fuse before cable flames).
    Fuse in or at the equipment is to protect the equipment.

    (FYI - the fuses could be combined - eg a battery 80A fuse into 80A cable into 40A fuse into 40A cable to 20A equipment fuse could be a single 20A fuse at the battery, or a 40A battery fuse onto 80A then 40A cable into 20A end... But the "source" fuse MUST blow before any of its downstream cables.)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Thanks all for your replies! This is really helpful.

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