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Thread: Tried to install new PSU to new motherboard. FAIL pics included

  1. #11
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    Oct 2009
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    Wait, nevermind. It worked twice now it doing the same thing as before.

  2. #12
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    I think from what im reading is that you did both options at once and it worked? If so,leave the ACC and 12v plugs and simply plug "Power on" jumper cable back into psu and try boot again. If that works then it was just the ACC and 12v mixed up and you should have your automated start up/shutdown again. If it does not boot, then there's a problem somewhere on psu. So the only other way around it which is the set-up i use.
    Install an on/off (momentary/toggle) switch on the vehicle's dash or a convenient location and plug it straight into motherboard PWR jumper pins and bypass the psu alltogether. Then get into Windows and change the power button settings to suit hibernation/sleep when you press on/off switch. Also, remove jumper pins on m2 atx so its in normal psu mode as well as the ACC plug(no need for ACC). By doing it this way, it will give you more manual control over pc. E.g. if pc freezes you just hold the on/off button for a few seconds to turn it off and then press again for reboot. Turn the pc on when you want it to so if you just on a breif trip to the shop the pc wont automatically boot up only having to shut down a couple mins later. Hopefully it was just the ACC and 12v and that youve fixed problem. Good luck
    Last edited by pcmoto.com.au; 10-04-2011 at 07:20 AM.

  3. #13
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    Thanks, I'll give that a try. I'm afraid I fried something because when I was changing the power, I sensed a faint smell of smoke. Hopefully it wasn't my PSU or motherboard.

  4. #14
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    When I switched the ACC and 12v jumper wires, this is what burned I switched them back and it really smoked and turned bright from the heat. Grr, what gives, the PSU or motherboard?

  5. #15
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    Very strange. Swapping ACC an 12v cables shouldnt make any difference unless there was a problem with one of them in the first place. If you have removed jumper pin so psu is in normal or dumb mode then make sure you remove ACC cable and just leave 12v and B- cables plugged in. then manually boot with on/off switch at the motherboard not psu( or use wire and bridge both pins on one end of on/off jumper cable for one second). the only other thing i can think of is that the motherboard might be shorting out under it touching metal

  6. #16
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    Oct 2009
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    OK ill give that a try. But since that little chip basically melted, do I need to replace the motherboard?

  7. #17
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    Well before you replace M/B. Not sure if you already have, but try using a desktop psu first to see if it boots.If it does not boot, replace M/B. If it does boot and is stable then maybe just maybe its to do with the m2 atx 20pin cable missing too many voltage cables. Showed a friend your post and he was saying that it could be because the m2 atx cable plugs have cable missing the M/b could be trying to compensate for the missing cables by resourcing power elsewere on the M/b creating too much load on either a resistor, compasitor or an onboard fuse on one circuit causing it to get red hot.
    If it turns out that you have replace M/b, hook it up to a desktop psu first to test system and/or load your O/S. Once you are confident with it, then try the m2 atx psu. But be very alert and look and smell for any signs of something burning.

    If you have a PSU tester try that first to see if all the lights turn on. This just says there is sufficient power on each rail but it wont tell you if you have over voltage.
    If you have a volt meter try testing the output voltages on the m2atx psu. Disconnect the 20pin atx cable on the M/B and make sure you have power connected (just the B+ and B-). Get a small lenght of cable stripped on both ends and insert one end into pin14 and the other end into pin15 on the exposed end of the 20pin atx cable. This will turn the psu on so you can test for any over/under voltages on the 12v, 5v,
    3.3v lines.

  8. #18
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    Sep 2011
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    Ames, IA
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    Doing it Wrong

    Your problem is DEFINITELY that you cut a bunch of wires from the motherboard's ATX connector from the M2. Your motherboard needs ALL of those wires to be connected to function (with the exception of one, the -5V rail which isn't used anymore, and is typically left out these days. I think its a blue wire on ones that have it) Point being, NEVER EVER cut any wires out. They are redundant for a reason. Get a new connector and you will be fine.

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