Correct. But that's just the cpu
Correct. But that's just the cpu
I can almost guarantee that if you hooked the pc to a car battery with a 15-20amp fuse it will run
Thats what I get for not looking at your supply...
OHMS law gives us this formula...
Volts*Amps = Wattage
or in your case:
This is why people are stating 10-15 amps..
Your board is likely using 60 watts during the preboot process or more on its own. When the BIOS is done loading the hard drives are turned on, the USB ports are all active, the fans all turn on and the CPU is running full power while booting. You are likely peeking over 100watts during this initial boot up phase and then ramping down after initial boot. Your power supply is crying for relief before it shuts down on overload. Since it is self resetting it comes back on once the load is removed thus allowing your computer to boot again...
I went to Radio Shack and looked at what they had available. I ended up getting the power supply I have now for test purposes. It wasn't cheap, it was somewhere around $100 but I figured I can use it for a lot of things. And it is far more powerful than what my PC power supply is. When you look at different levels of power you should always add a supply that supplies more than you need. This power supply that I have is 19 amp at 13.9 volts for a whopping 264 watts. I can run my HD radio, my PC and my screen(s) off this with no worries. I will barely be using half of its power with everything loaded up.
By different levels of power I mean this:
Motherboard fully loaded uses 130 watts get a 150 watt supply... (probably realistically under 100 watts if you have 55watt cpu. But for sake of this thread...)
Bench testing unit... Should be driven 175 watt or more...
Power to bench testing unit should be powered by a source able to handle more than the power produced.
Because of the differences in tolerances and ratings you should never match sources exactly to what the usage is. Always over build when possible and the components will last longer and you shouldn't have issues like this.
(The above mentioned 264 watt supply running off 110-120 volt AC is pulling less than 3 amp assuming 100% efficiency but is more likely pulling 5-8 amps at full power.)
I don't know guys, I ran my Asus P8Z77 mini with an IvyBridge i5, 128gb Sata SSD and 8gb of ram on my Kill-a-watt meter (AC power supply attached directly to meter to read total draw), and it NEVER drew over 100 watts. I'll drag it out and take a look again, but I find it REALLY hard to believe that a 55watt TDP CPU, ram, ssd and fan is going to draw anything remotely approaching 120 watts. The M2 is rated at 160watts max, which is about 13 amps total, for both the 12 and 5 volt busses.
Anyway, aren't we looking at this wrong?
1. The draw from the board is certainly within the ability of the M2 to handle, so that side of the circuit is okay.
2. The M2 attempts to draw the necessary amperage from the benchtop power supply. Nothing tells it that it can't, so it tries to do so.
3. The benchtop power supply is unable to meet demand, so IT shuts down (hopefully popping a breaker or fuse in the process)...not the M2.
That is essentially what I am saying.
I believe the benchtop supply has an auto resetting breaker that opens due to too high of a current draw and when the computer shuts off it is reduced thus the breaker is resetting then the computer tries to reset etc..
Depending on what is being used on the computer it all depends on the hardware in the box. From the research I have done I don't believe it will pull more than 100 watts either without a power hungry card added. Or if you try to drive multiple external devices off the power supply.
My 260 watt supply was cheap when compared to my computer so I bought something way bigger than I need to make sure It is never a question. I can now add multiple ARM boards, screens or whatever to my test "bed" and make sure they work together. I could even run a small amplifier off this too if I was so inclined although not likely to do so.
I put an ammeter inline on the input side of the M2 and max was drawing 2.1A which is pretty good. But no extra stuff (monitor, USB Hubs, etc).
It is working well now installed in the car.