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Thread: M2 ATX Problem

  1. #221
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    This is actually my 2nd m-2, my first one worked probably 1 in 5. My RMA'd one works probably 1 in 30. Its not very cold here in central calif. this thing is driving me insane.
    CarPC Version 2.0
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  2. #222
    One Sharp Cheddar ThunderStick's Avatar
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    Here is a good solution to the M2ATX issues, dont buy one. They suck. M1atx had an *** load of issues as well. Life expectancy of the m1 was only about 3 months. dont expect to get great quality from minibox products. buy an opus and by the piece of mind that comes with it. it will work.
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  3. #223
    FLAC LESLIEx317537's Avatar
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    I guess I've been lucky. Mines been working perfect for over 1 year now.
    SP13000|M2-ATX|512MB DDR400|2.5" 7200RPM S-ATA|Trans-7"|Slim SL DVD-CDRW|KEH 5.1 DSP|SB L!ve Ext|Gyration PowerMate|BT|WiFi|GPS|WinXP|VoomPC
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  4. #224
    Constant Bitrate
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    Mine is also doing the same thing. I get LAN Lights and my fan spins on my m10000 but no video. It works with a stanard ATX PS but not the M2-ATX.

  5. #225
    FLAC ShawJohn's Avatar
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    I have some wierd startup issues with the M2 that I never had with the OPUS90...

    Screen flashes on and off when resuming, when coldbooting it will probably do the boot cylce about 3 or 4 times before it can finally make it into windows

    Non of these issues seem psu related, but NON of the problems existed on the OPUS, or on an ATX PSU

    Also it seems to make the typical thumps you'd get off amps as it powers up and down, even though I don't have an AMP, I use the headunits AUX in. OPUS NEVER EVER did this


    On the whole it has worked as it should, but from my experiance, I wouldn't buy another, I'd be back with OPUS

  6. #226
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    I just got my M2-ATX off a guy on eBay and have it hooked up in my basement with an $11 computer PSU (for direct 12V and GND, simulating ignition line with a slider switch) and it works fine.
    Powering:
    Via Epia 13000sp
    8"Lilliput (889GL)
    7200RPM 12GB HD
    BU353 GPS reciever
    Netgear b/G Wireless PCI (WG311T)
    1GB pc 3200 RAM (G Skill brand... the cheap one at newegg)
    keyboard and mouse both plugged into PS2 ports

    R4 comes out to 99.6k as tested with my multimeter (like I can read those small numbers without magnification...).

    The whole thing only pulls a max of 5.5A @ 12.5V (defragmenting while running media center) and the thing works fine. Maybe I'm lucky (or will be until I get it in the car...). I know that doesn't help anyone but I thought I'd put in my report.

  7. #227
    Kai
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    Question

    I've been having what sounds like the same issue with a Jetway low power mb c7 and the M2-ATX.

    Power on - fan spins - no beep - no vga - no keyboard lights

    After warming up the car it powers on. A day where it was warmer (not hot, just warmer) here, it powered up no problem and I assumed it would. Before it got cold, it was also fine.

    Has anyone had and solved this problem? It seems m2 related, but I'd rather not assume it's just that.

  8. #228
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    Exclamation

    I had bootup problem of VIA MB when connected to M2-ATX.
    I read the message here. But I couldn't find a solution.
    So I invesigated the problem and found the solution.
    It is to quit using M2-ATX.
    If someone have bootup problem, please confirm this.
    I think M2 doesn't have +5V dc-dc. Instead, FET switch connected between +5VSB and +5V. When power-on signal comes from MB, FET turns on and +5VSB is connected to +5V.
    However, due to large capacitance load in the +5V line, +5VSB drops by the rush current.
    In my case, +5VSB drops down to almost 0.5V. +5V should keep +/-5% but 90% drop.
    I gave up this PSU. I think dropping voltage and timing depend on load capacitance. I understand that someone said changing R4 resolve this but my M2 is already 100K. Even changing to 200K, I thought it still unstable.
    Even your system is working now I recommend to check voltage of +5VSB.

  9. #229
    FLAC ShawJohn's Avatar
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    which of the atx pins is 5vsb? or do you mean the red 5v drive loom wire?

  10. #230
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    I did not read this whole thread yet, but this sounds like a "switch bounce issue" I have a similar problem with my current PC. Enermax PSU went POP, got replacement and now sometimes I have to try to power my PC on like 20-30 times before it will boot up.

    The solution is to solder a .22uf capacitor tot he switch to reslove the issue on my equipment. I have not done this yet, I may just send the PSU back for another one. Motherboard company Blames the PSU make PSU maker blames PSU company... The Cap is supposed to filter the bounce.

    Google switch bounce for more info. My Sony TV has this problem as well. It is pretty common.

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