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Thread: M2-ATX ACC line instead of IGN?

  1. #21
    Variable Bitrate
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    Thanks Bmrbch. I'll give it a go when I get a chance and I'll post my results.

  2. #22
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldSpark View Post
    As syrinx wrote, El Camino captured the main issue...
    ACC breaks when cranking (starting) the car.

    Otherwise as power sources they are equivalent.

    The common simple solution is a relay fed from the battery (fused! - for power to the load) whose coil/solenoid (#86) is connected via diodes to ACC and IGN.

    Then there are the usual latching methods, manual on & off & low-volts off that can be added to the above, but I won't repeat that boring verbose stuff.
    i have the same problem as of late. carpc on, but car off and when i start the engine the pc acts like the power was instantly cut. it worked fine for months, there is no fault in my wiring. it has to do with something on the m2 malfunctioning... because i can leave the m2 off all power sources for a day or so and it will start working correctly again.. for a couple restarts, then it happens again continuously.

    i am going to try a simple delay solution as well

  3. #23
    Raw Wave
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    Just consider the diode approach.
    It's two 20c diodes if 1A is enough (IN4004 etc).
    Otherwise add a relay ($5).

    Then there are no capacitor complications, and no problems from L..O..N..G.. cranking times.

    (And add a 3rd diode for a manually activated or other signal.)

  4. #24
    FLAC
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    actually that reminds me- mine is already controlled via relay. theres a chance i dont have a diode on it though (i thought it was built into the relay, it might not be) and also, i do hear the relay click off so for whatever reason its not getting a clean enough power source upon ignition.

  5. #25
    Raw Wave
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    No no!
    I'm not talking about spike suppression relays (which I always provide externally if needed) - I'm talking about series diodes as used for polarity protection and enabling triggering from different sources.

    I just reckon 2 diodes are simpler and more reliable than an RC combination...

    EG - a diode from IGN joined to a diode from ACC that powers the relay (#86). Then the relay is on with IGN or ACC - ie, one OR the other OR both (hence what I call diode-ORing).


    The FYI ramble follows: (Stop here or shut up!)
    Diodes are often used as a simple "logical-OR" gate.
    (The same can be done with Grounded switches in parallel that ground (#85) and hot relay (#86 to +12V) - that's what I call Open-Collector or ground (etc) ORing & switching).

    To add a manual switch to the above diode-OR'd relay, and a +12V switch through another diode.
    To add other triggers (alarms, voltage sensors, sound triggers, remotes etc), just interface each +12V source via its own diode.

    I still recommend IN4004s (1A, 400V PIV = "Peak Inverse Voltage" rated) because these are robust and common as and hence cheap (about $0.20 each).
    But anything above IN4001 (1A 50V PIV) like IN4007 (1kV PIV) is fine.
    And anything above 1A is fine - eg IN5304 = 3A 400PIV etc.
    I recently bought 100 IN4007s for under AUD$15. I only wanted IN4004s, but for $3 extra I got 1,000V instead of 400A (maybe 'cos I'm stupid?).

  6. #26
    FLAC
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    i have 3 inputs... ignition, remote start, and aux from remote start. all three are tied into 1 relay all with their own diodes in series before they hit the relay. like i said, this has been working fine for a long time, and only suddenly does it start clicking off while im turning the starter....

  7. #27
    What can I say? I like serial. Curiosity's Avatar
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    That's because your battery is going bad. No. But anyway, here's a simple 3 OR input with a delay buffer idea if it helps.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  8. #28
    FLAC
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    my battery could very well be going weak... its been drained flat quite a few times now, and these non-deep cycle type just get destroyed by full drains...

  9. #29
    Variable Bitrate
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    My M2-ATX, as it's aged, has been less capable of surviving engine starts (down to about 30% success rate I'd guess). It has nothing to do with the acc line, as it can be off for 5 secs and it won't shutdown. The problem comes from the voltage dropping on the +12V line when starting the engine. My M2-ATX could easily handle this when it was new, but lately, drops out far too often. My current plan (next time I get into the center console) is to install a diode isolated Sealed Lead Acid (small, like for security systems/emergency lights, etc) and run the PC from that. This should easily maintain the power the M2-ATX needs on the main supply, and will be maintained on through engine starts.
    2000 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer - Bi-Fuel Gasoline/CNG
    Intel D945GCLF2 w/512MB RAM, CL Audigy w/KxProject, M2-ATX, Lilliput EBY701

  10. #30
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    @ Curiousity & trader007,
    12V relays have a minimum operating voltage where they will drop out.
    You should check the cranking volts to make sure this is not below the dropout voltage of the relay you use.

    @CraziFuzzy,
    As your main battery gets old the internal resistance increases with sulphation. This increased internal resistance results in lower external voltage under heavy loads like cranking.
    I would try a new main battery because while it might still work under normal conditions, it sounds like it won't survive if you have to try starting a stubburn engine a few times.
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