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Thread: Pre-mature powerup

  1. #1
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    Pre-mature powerup

    Iím clearly doing something wrong as the device (computer) powers up regardless of the state of Ignition.

    If Iíve read the document correctly, the order is:
    GND, Ignition, 12V (Depending on which way you look at it, it could be reversed, but same order)

    As soon as the 12V connection is made, the device powers on, regardless of the state of Ignition.
    Ignition signal does change from 0V to 12V as per key in ignition. (measured)

    Device is in P1 mode, ďOn, Off, Off, OffĒ (Down, Up, Up, Up)

    ďP1 (recommended): Sends ON pulse to motherboard when ignition is ON for more than
    5 seconds, sends OFF pulse to motherboard 5 seconds after ignition is turned off. Waits
    another 60 seconds and then shuts down 5VSB to conserve battery. In this mode, the
    M4-ATX consumes less than 0.5mA.Ē

    As per the manual, itís not supposed to power up the mainboard, until Ignition has changed to 12V for 5 seconds or more. Itís currently on my desk with nothing connected to Ignition, it still powers up when 12V is provided to the 12V connector. A voltmeter confirms Ignition is 0.01V when measured against GND.

    For completeness, Iíve not connected anything to the USB port and/or used the software to connect to the unit to configure it. Itís all as per factory with the exception of the DIP switches.

    Clearly, Iím not interpreting the manual correctly and Iím getting it wrong. I can supply pictures of input cables and DIP switches if it helps to provide clarify on what Iím doing wrong.

    Btw, it was brand new a few months ago, but been a bit slow to build and configure the equipment, and ignored the issue while i was building it on my desk. Now that I'm trying to fit it to the car, its more than a little annoying.


    Any advise?


    JJ

  2. #2
    Variable Bitrate mayhembdm666's Avatar
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    I would suggest posting a pic of the board top down just so we can double check *second set of eyes*

    but being i use this board i cant thing of anything obvious of the top of my head, in the possible chance a bad ground but unsure if this would give the same result as in something more in a constant state change.
    im at work on nightshift. but if i can find a screw driver here i shall try n get to my psu and double check or grab a pic.

    Possibly a bad board otherwise?
    i believe i also use mode1 / P1 so this has always worked perfect for me and never an issue even in testing state of other parts on the car that require me to ignition on and off randomly multiple times within minutes/seconds.
    2004 Holden WL Caprice Auto GENIII
    Base System = Raspberry Pi
    Everything else is pending for now as switched from a Mini-ITX setup

  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate mayhembdm666's Avatar
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    Okay, just checked and took some photos... only to get up stairs and realise its a M2 psu.... my bad...
    But without checking back to the manual, it has three jumpers for the usual configurations... Operating on the one similar if not the same as yours.

    I would be inspecting the board or trying to possibly compare it against another one as just seems little odd unless something obvious comes up
    2004 Holden WL Caprice Auto GENIII
    Base System = Raspberry Pi
    Everything else is pending for now as switched from a Mini-ITX setup

  4. #4
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    Pictures

    As suggested,

    Two pictures, not the sharpest, but should convey the message.

    Green is ignition, currently it connects to thin air. When measured it is the same level as GND, which implies the PSU should not power up the computer based on the settings on the dip switches:
    Name:  20120418_184632.jpg
Views: 165
Size:  198.3 KB

    DIP switches, 1 down, 2-4 are up, P1 mode?
    Name:  20120418_184644.jpg
Views: 150
Size:  154.9 KB



    JJ

  5. #5
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    Tested with P3 mode, results are as follows:

    Stays off until IGN goes high for 3s, then powers on the mainboard. During the 3s wait the green led blinks rapidly, then solid on as the unit powers up.

    After IGN goes low, it waits around 60 seconds before sending a shutdown signal and Windows shuts down gracefully. The led blinks slowly during the shutdown period.

    The green led then goes back to 3x slow blinks, 3 seconds pause, etc until IGN goes high.


    Problem: During sleep, it appears to consume 0.08 amp. a 40amp hour car battery will bleed dry within 21days. In other words, its not turning off the 5V rail
    Tried different P's, but they all consume 0.08 amp after shutdown


    JJ

  6. #6
    Variable Bitrate mayhembdm666's Avatar
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    Was'nt the original question about P1 mode not waiting for ignition?
    If P3 mode does work, then possibly a bad dip switch?

    As for the 5v rail, im unsure if this PSU should kill the 5v line as this is used for USB devices to power on the computer..
    I think we need a M4 Power supply user to reply.
    2004 Holden WL Caprice Auto GENIII
    Base System = Raspberry Pi
    Everything else is pending for now as switched from a Mini-ITX setup

  7. #7
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    True, that was the original question as P1 is the recommended option. P3 is supposed to wait 1min before powering up. As the device is responding to differnet DIP switch settings, but not as per the manual maybe its dodgy firmware?

    According to the manual the 5V rail is supposed to turn off in P1, P3, P4 and P6. Problem with the higher P's is that the shutdown does not take effect for upto 2h after IGN off. I don't want the device on for 2h after I've left the car.

    But its a mute point, I've tried all 8 modes, the amp remains 0.08 after 1 min in all cases. (I left P3 for 30min, was still drawing 0.08A)

    I emailed mini-box support last week, still waiting to hear back from them...


    JJ

  8. #8
    Variable Bitrate mayhembdm666's Avatar
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    hmmm, i'll be curious about this. Also surprised another use of this PSU has not responded yet... lazy buggers ...

    Okay time for me to read about this one... So P2/P5/P7 should always keep the 5v's running while all
    the other modes P1/P3/P4/P6 should all turn the 5v's of after 1 minute.

    did you try their outlined method to reset it:

    NOTE: Should you need to reset to factory defaults (in case changes were made via the USB uplink), simply power
    off the unit, connect a jumper to JP1 and then apply power back up for more than 2 seconds. The LED light will start to
    flash rapidly indicating that the factory defaults were loaded. Don’t forget to Remove jumper! Disconnect M4-ATX
    from battery for at least few seconds. You are done!
    2004 Holden WL Caprice Auto GENIII
    Base System = Raspberry Pi
    Everything else is pending for now as switched from a Mini-ITX setup

  9. #9
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    Good point. No harm in trying

    LED did not blink when power was applied with a jumper on JP1. Never the less, completed the procedure, but its still drawing power.

    Minor side effect, it no longer powers up the computer (Not even in P0 or P3 mode)


    I have a network cable attached to the device while its on my desk, and the NIC leds no longer blink, so no power is given to the mainboard itself (it would blink previously, which meant the mainboard was consuming power). No idea what's drawing the power now, must be the M4-ATX itself. I'll leave it without power over night and see if it cures the issue. If not, i think i'm looking at an RMA.



    JJ

  10. #10
    Variable Bitrate mayhembdm666's Avatar
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    with the dramas you have had, i would be sending it back anyway and ordering from a different supplier if the next item is the same.?
    so simply its stuffed?

    **EDIT: honestly... another model of power supply? chance to try something else and rule out less model based errors
    Last edited by mayhembdm666; 04-20-2012 at 08:59 PM.
    2004 Holden WL Caprice Auto GENIII
    Base System = Raspberry Pi
    Everything else is pending for now as switched from a Mini-ITX setup

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