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Thread: Draining Battery

  1. #51
    FLAC
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    Haha. Are the numbers all higher or lower on the positive wire and by a lot or just a few tenths?
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  2. #52
    QCar Creator Jirka Jirout's Avatar
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    200mA current draw in a parked car is too much. It should be more like 50-100mA.

    Do not trust the clamp ammeter too much for this kind of current. Use a regular in-circuit ammeter.

    If you suspect your battery might be somehow damaged (which does happen from time to time even with new ones), check its voltage under high load. Make sure the battery is fully charged, then just turn on everything you can in your car (fans, lights, radio etc.). If the voltage drops below 11V in 5 minutes or less, then something is wrong with the battery.

  3. #53
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    After a week skiing I was greeted by a dead battery in the resort parking lot (after I had cleaned away the 40"+ snow from ontop...)

    Anyways, it is the screen I have figured out. I drive my car everyday so I didnt get a dead battery. Leaving it for a week, battery was dead flat, no clicking when starting nothing, it was flat flat. I have tested this now since I had some time off where I didnt have to drive, and the PC draws little power, but the screen draws a crap ton. I leave my screen in standby mode so when the PC starts, the screen wakes up. Well the screen in standby draws more than a trivial amount of current.

    I would unplug the screen and see what you are drawing.
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  4. #54
    CarFrontEnd Creator iamgnat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTeuer View Post
    No, the numbers are different on the positive wire.
    How do you have your Mini powered? Did you run power for it straight from the battery?

    If you did (and if you didn't, you need to), then the difference is that the negative cable is showing you the entire draw for the car (your stuff plus the factory stuff). You need to take your measurements on the positive wires so you can tell exactly what your car is drawing vs the the Mini.

    When on the positive line, the value should be reading negative for the Mini at all times. On the MFG line, it will read negative when the car is off but should read positive when the car is running. If it is still negative when the car is running, that means your Alt isn't supplying enough power.

    Also remember to reset your ammeter to 0 before each test or you will get wildly inaccurate results.

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  5. #55
    CarFrontEnd Creator iamgnat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
    I would unplug the screen and see what you are drawing.
    If he used the CarNetix to supply power for the LCD, it cuts power to it when the car is off and powers it up at the same time it triggers the Amplifier line.

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  6. #56
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    Thanks for all of your guy's responses! The Mac Mini is not being powered directly from the battery, but rather it is powered by some terminals under the dash. Why do I need to power it directly from the battery? Everyone in the Audi world says the terminals supplies plenty of power.

    http://web.mac.com/b.auch/TTEUER/Installation.html#23 I've got two 10amp inline fuses on the positive line, one as close as possible to the connection under the dash, and one right before it finally reaching the Carnetix powersupply.

    I understand that the readings were for the entire car when I measured it from the battery which is why I said to take + or - .2 amps from my readings. When the carputer was completely off and had sat for a while (for all accessory power to die), my car seemed to be drawing around .16 - .18 amps.

    I zeroed my ammeter with every reading as well. I'm not sure what you mean by "MFG line".

    I did notice that when the system is on/asleep, I can hear a high pitch electrical buzz that disappeared when the system is completely off. Seems kind of like it's coming from the display area...

  7. #57
    FLAC
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    MFG stands for manufacturer. I think he meant the wire running from the battery to the alternator/rest of the car. I believe that dave wanted you to run a separate connection direct to battery for the mac so that we could easily distinguish between how much it is using vs how much the rest of the car is using. If this is the reason, we can just be less lazy and measure in more places. He may have a reason that I'm not seeing though.


    Let's get some more readings on this to clear things up some more...

    1. Current on the positive wire that is attached to the battery with the mac completely off.
    2. Current on the positive that is attached to the battery wire with the mac in standby.
    3. Current on the negative wire that is attached to the battery with the mac in standby.
    4. Repeat 1 with car on.
    5. Repeat 2 with car on.
    6. Repeat 3 with car on.
    7. Measure voltage on the battery using your old multimeter with the car off.
    8. Repeat 7 with car on.

    On means engine on. I don't care about accessory mode.

    Is your screen always able to draw power when the car is off? Is there some sort of relay/switch killing power to it? The screen could definitely be a significant power leak.
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  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    MFG stands for manufacturer. I think he meant the wire running from the battery to the alternator/rest of the car. I believe that dave wanted you to run a separate connection direct to battery for the mac so that we could easily distinguish between how much it is using vs how much the rest of the car is using. If this is the reason, we can just be less lazy and measure in more places. He may have a reason that I'm not seeing though.


    Let's get some more readings on this to clear things up some more...

    1. Current on the positive wire that is attached to the battery with the mac completely off.
    2. Current on the positive that is attached to the battery wire with the mac in standby.
    3. Current on the negative wire that is attached to the battery with the mac in standby.
    4. Repeat 1 with car on.
    5. Repeat 2 with car on.
    6. Repeat 3 with car on.
    7. Measure voltage on the battery using your old multimeter with the car off.
    8. Repeat 7 with car on.

    On means engine on. I don't care about accessory mode.

    Is your screen always able to draw power when the car is off? Is there some sort of relay/switch killing power to it? The screen could definitely be a significant power leak.
    I'll get these readings. My screen is controlled by the Carnetix P1900 (EVERYTHING power related goes through this). So the screen should be going into Standby with the Mini.

  9. #59
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTeuer View Post
    I'll get these readings. My screen is controlled by the Carnetix P1900 (EVERYTHING power related goes through this). So the screen should be going into Standby with the Mini.
    The screen's standby mode could be pulling a lot of power. Its standby mode is also unnecessary since it doesn't take a screen very long to start. We can probable shave a few tenths of an amp there.
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  10. #60
    CarFrontEnd Creator iamgnat's Avatar
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    That's not something i've seen in other cars. I personally would still run a line directly from the battery for my aftermarket setup, but a 30A point should be more than enough. The only thing to consider would be what the MFG put on that line (e.g. if it is running at peak and your Mini kicks on, you might pop it's fuse).

    As far as what I described earlier, since you don't have the line directly off the battery, it is the line from the point you showed to the Mini that needs to be measured to know what it is doing.

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