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Thread: Draining Battery

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamgnat View Post
    That's not something i've seen in other cars. I personally would still run a line directly from the battery for my aftermarket setup, but a 30A point should be more than enough. The only thing to consider would be what the MFG put on that line (e.g. if it is running at peak and your Mini kicks on, you might pop it's fuse).

    As far as what I described earlier, since you don't have the line directly off the battery, it is the line from the point you showed to the Mini that needs to be measured to know what it is doing.

    -dave
    Thanks, I've had it on this line for around 9 months now and have no problems other than my battery dying - as this 5 page thread has been about. I want LESS power!

    I just reinstalled the system and with my clamp on meter it was reading around .85 amps while asleep. This is the line going from the bus terminal directly to the Carnetix P1900. At the same time, from the battery, I am measured around 1.2amps. I had just opened my doors so I am waiting to see what it drops to as the car begins to "shut off" additional electronics that are probably on some sort of timer.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    MFG stands for manufacturer. I think he meant the wire running from the battery to the alternator/rest of the car. I believe that dave wanted you to run a separate connection direct to battery for the mac so that we could easily distinguish between how much it is using vs how much the rest of the car is using. If this is the reason, we can just be less lazy and measure in more places. He may have a reason that I'm not seeing though.


    Let's get some more readings on this to clear things up some more...

    1. Current on the positive wire that is attached to the battery with the mac completely off.
    2. Current on the positive that is attached to the battery wire with the mac in standby.
    3. Current on the negative wire that is attached to the battery with the mac in standby.
    4. Repeat 1 with car on.
    5. Repeat 2 with car on.
    6. Repeat 3 with car on.
    7. Measure voltage on the battery using your old multimeter with the car off.
    8. Repeat 7 with car on.

    On means engine on. I don't care about accessory mode.

    Is your screen always able to draw power when the car is off? Is there some sort of relay/switch killing power to it? The screen could definitely be a significant power leak.
    There are two definitions, in my case, of the mac being off:

    One is I turn off the option in the Energy Saver "Allow computer to sleep from Power button" - I.E., if that is turned on, the Carnetix P1900 sends the Mac Mini a signal at the power button causing it to sleep when I switch off the ignition. If that is off, the definition of off in this case is that I go up to the Apple Menu and manually Shut down the computer.

    The other "definition" is when the Mac Mini goes to sleep as normal with the signal from the P1900 and I go to wake up the computer - the P1900 will sense that the Mini isn't supposed to be on (ignition is off) and it will HARD shut down the computer - all power is cut.

    To answer some questions, however.

    #2: From the battery, around 0.92 - 0.98amps
    #3: From the battery, around 0.85 Amps
    #4: "Definition 1" - 0.6 - 0.7Amps directly from the wire to the P1900 from the bus terminal.
    #5: "Definition 1" - 0.8 - 0.85Amps directly form the wire to the P1900 from the bus terminal.
    #6: Unable to access negative wire right now (buried behind another interior panel).
    #7: 12.28V - LOW! The battery was around 11.8V when I first looked at it today. I was in and out of the car a lot yesterday working on the computer system/taking it out so the interior lights were going on and off a bit.
    #8: 13.96V after the car was on a few minutes, rose up to around 14.01V.

  3. #63
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    2 and 3 tell me that there is a slight amount of "ghost" power, but not very much. I was hoping there would be more...
    4 and 5 tell me that the mac is drawing more power than it should be, definitely.
    8 tells me that the alternator is at least fine.

    If you leave the car on for a while and then shut it off, does the battery have over 13 volts in it? It may not be getting fully charged.
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  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    2 and 3 tell me that there is a slight amount of "ghost" power, but not very much. I was hoping there would be more...
    4 and 5 tell me that the mac is drawing more power than it should be, definitely.
    8 tells me that the alternator is at least fine.

    If you leave the car on for a while and then shut it off, does the battery have over 13 volts in it? It may not be getting fully charged.
    Just as a note, before I reconnected my CarPC back together, current draw was around .1amp.

    As far as 2 and 3 go - those numbers seem high to me. When the computer is switched off, I'd expect nearly 0amp current draw. However, i have a feeling because the P1900 is set to Standy (Sleep) mode, even once I manually turn the Mac Mini off, it still supplies power... possibly to USB devices or the display? I'm not really sure. I don't have the button board connected to my LCD anymore (custom dash enclosure) so I don't exactly know what its doing when I switch the ignition off. I think it's going into standby mode.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by TTeuer View Post
    Just as a note, before I reconnected my CarPC back together, current draw was around .1amp.

    As far as 2 and 3 go - those numbers seem high to me. When the computer is switched off, I'd expect nearly 0amp current draw. However, i have a feeling because the P1900 is set to Standy (Sleep) mode, even once I manually turn the Mac Mini off, it still supplies power... possibly to USB devices or the display? I'm not really sure. I don't have the button board connected to my LCD anymore (custom dash enclosure) so I don't exactly know what its doing when I switch the ignition off. I think it's going into standby mode.
    Yeah, I think the display is eating that power. If you want to keep the P1900 on but kill the display with the ignition, you can wire a relay in the wire going from the P1900 to the display.
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  6. #66
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    If you dont have the button panel, and you arent pushing buttons or remote controlling it, the display is in sleep like I mentioned earlier. That draws a lot of power apparently. I didnt think it did before. It is enough to drain my Optima YellowTop though as I stated. If you had the screen powered from the PSU, then it would hardoff, and it wouldnt turn back on until either a local or remote button is pushed.

    I would put that button panel back on there just to try for a few days and confirm.
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  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
    If you dont have the button panel, and you arent pushing buttons or remote controlling it, the display is in sleep like I mentioned earlier. That draws a lot of power apparently. I didnt think it did before. It is enough to drain my Optima YellowTop though as I stated. If you had the screen powered from the PSU, then it would hardoff, and it wouldnt turn back on until either a local or remote button is pushed.

    I would put that button panel back on there just to try for a few days and confirm.
    Hah, that's not exactly possible. I buried it in hotglue. Good news, I have a little hole made for the IR of the remote so I will switch it off with the remote and see if things are any better. Thanks!

  8. #68
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    I had this same problem with my Carnetix 2140 powering my MacMini in the UTE, and overcame the problem by wiring a small on/off switch to a relay that I can flip to off if I don't use the car for a while.

    So, everything still works as it should, I get in the car, flip the switch to on, witch will "link" the Carnetix incoming power to the "ign" on my car - only when I turn the ignition to on will the system power up, and shut down.

    Should I not use the UTE for a week to 2, I just flip the switch to the off position.

    Clean solution, and no dead battery.

    edit: Look in my project log, pages 6 and 7, there'sa few pics of the relay and switch, easily accessable, but well hidden.
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  9. #69
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    Thank - I wish I even had a week to 2. I used to not even have 24 hours...

    until now!

    So far, in the last two days, I've been turned the display off with the remote and my car has started every morning. There's still more current draw than I'd like, but reducing the load seems to have solved my issues, for now.

    Thanks for everyones help and input!

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