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Thread: Car Computer Install: Overview Of Install

  1. #1
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    Car Computer Install: Overview Of Install

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    Sean Clark, from mp3Car, walks us through what the actual vehicle installation will entail. He illustrates the importance of properly grounding each electronic device to the chassis or to the negative terminal on the battery. The white board diagram provides a visual for most of the cables that will need to be run.

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    Looking good so far. One thought though.... wouldn't it be far easier to put a USB HUB LIKE THIS ONE in the front of the vehicle, under the dash, and then run a single USB cable to the back. This would be far easier and tidier than running all of those individual USB cables to the computer in the back for sure. This would also allow for mounting the USB for the Andrea up front, and saving running the audio cable all the way to the back of the car as well.
    Last edited by JohnWPB; 09-03-2011 at 05:00 PM.
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    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    ^ i agree to a extent. i think the screen should always have a dedicated usb line run for it, but in this case, the other components are considered accessories, so a dedicated line is not required for those.

    you forgot to mention that you were running a power wire from the carpc to the screen i prefer to run a 4 conductor wire to the front, so both 12v and 5v rails are available for future accessories-- like a cheap usb hub, or other random parts..


    did you take the spare tire out for the video, or does triple-A treat you that good?

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    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    Instead of running multiple power wires from the battery, why not run a single large gauge wire (1/0 or larger) to a distribution block in the back? I think that's more efficient and better than stacking blade terminals on the amp, don't you?
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

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    Well the monitor needed filtered 12v power, so that had to be run from the quick release kit coming from the m2-atx.
    The USB hub wasn't needed because, yes that would have been easier, but would have costed a bit of extra cash. And it wasn't needed**, it just would have been easier.

    How would a big + wire running to a distribution block be more efficient? The amp terminal is acting as that distribution block. I'm not an electrical engineer, maybe old spark can chime in - but I think its the same either way, unless the voltage drop at the terminal from the amp effects the voltage output to the other devices.

    Being that its all in 1 electrical system either way, the system has the same resistance either way, so it shouldn't make a difference weather you split it before the amp, or after.

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    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    Regarding the power distribution, it's just personal preference. I'm not a fan of stacking items on top of a screw terminal - I prefer the look and multiple terminals of a distro block. Since you are using a distro block for the grounds, I figured you'd do the same for the power.
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

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    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    power wise, it does not change anything(i did it because i get really sick of ordering stuff online and having to wait for it). but many amps are switching to set-screw type wire connections that do not allow the option of connecting multiple wires to the power terminal, so this could pose a problem to other installs.

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    Whats funny is that the kit did come with a power distro block and a ground distro block. But the power distro block was pure metal. As in - I couldn't just sit in my trunk. The ground was a fully protected block. So I would have had to buy some other part to make that work.

    I know I sound like a cheap a$$ here but a lot of people are building these without an unlimited budget.

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    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by optikalefx View Post
    Whats funny is that the kit did come with a power distro block and a ground distro block. But the power distro block was pure metal. As in - I couldn't just sit in my trunk. The ground was a fully protected block. So I would have had to buy some other part to make that work.

    I know I sound like a cheap a$$ here but a lot of people are building these without an unlimited budget.
    That is too funny! I wonder why they didn't bother to enclose the power block?

    Here's what I use for my power and grounds, and it's only $15. Not too shabby.

    http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-RFP7-P.../dp/B00069RA6W
    1999 Mercury Grand Marquis GS with: ASRock E350M1 w/4GB RAM, 80GB Intel SSD, Opus DCX3.120, Visteon HD Radio + HDR-USB, PL-18N wifi, OBDLink Scan Tool, BTA6210 BT, BU-353, Win 7 Ultimate, CF 4.0, Alpine MRP-F240 + MRP-T220, RF Punch 1572s, Kicker 8" Comp.

  10. #10
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    Because its meant to screw right onto the positive terminal of the battery.

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