Oh yea btw.... Inexpensive ratcheting crimper:
I am very pleased to see this video series for a car PC install. I have been wanting to do just such a project for a while, and have been reading and researching for some time now, trying to gain more knowledge and confidence before I pull the trigger. These videos are by far one of the most helpful things I have seen. And even more so for me, since I also have a 2008 Nissan Altima Coupe. Boy, was I pleased to see that happy coincidence! The only differences I see are that I have a standard transmission, and for some reason Nissan disn't offer the nav computer package with the manual transmission. I'm not sure if that was based on a practical, physical reason, or if it was just a random marketing decision, or even if that would make a difference in a PC install for my vehicle. Also, I have the BOSE system. Would this make any difference for, say, the need for an amp, or difference in wiring, or different dash kit (I think it might, as I have the dual-zone controls) or or anything else?
I love my 3.5L coupe, and I am looking forward to tackling this same project. Keep up the good work, and thanks for listening. I'll be following you all the way!
^ i don't like those oval crimpers-- i've had a lot of loose crimps with those types even when i made sure to fully crimp the entire connector. i always end up using the bumps between settings to get the connector to better crimp...
hence the reason i recommended a crimper that has a 'nipple' on it to better force the wire to meld with the connector.
Not taking the panels off the car creates a possible problem, by not removing that panel you risk the issue of catching the wire in the steering column behind the panel....also crimps should not be used , you can't see how much wire your contacting with the crimp and you risk the issue of breaking the strands. With the crimp. Solder is the way ... Sorry bud
solder is the best way, but soldering is much more of a art form then other methods, and can be very hard for many to learn, esp if they are only using it for 1 project. hence, crimping is the next-best, less-learning-required, preferred method.
hehe, you see my project list? i can say i didn't have it figured out for the first year or so. now, many years later, i solder 5050 series smd led's for projects without problems...
Last edited by soundman98; 09-29-2011 at 06:59 PM.
just because you may know which type of solder to choose, what kind of wire doesn't cause it to bead, how hot the iron should get, what style tip should be used... doesn't mean everyone else does. Plus, if your going to solder, you should heat shrink. So now you need to get fashion (or buy) a heat gun. at the mp3Car labs we solder every build and heat shrink every junction. I would venture to guess > 60% of people here use crimps. It's rare that it doesn't work out.
You guys are right that you should* take the panels off. But When you can clearly see the hole, it's much quicker, and not really unsafe to aim for that hole. I would agree though that yes - don't just poke around.
It's not rare to see a crimp not work. I have see it more then I can shake my fist at.
The issue I have with the instructional videos is the same as the ones my company put out.
If your going to do something like this, do it right, or a last hint or suggest the right things to do as well.
Heat skink also is good for low current wires , but high current ignition wires? You have to cut it in order to get the tube on,then solder it back together, you run the risk of throwing more resistance in the line,which can cause immobilizer issues in most new cars, I.e anything gm, Dodge, Toyota.
Solder to use, "flux core" has the flux mixed right in,
Solder iron, "solder gun" not a station , takes to long to heat up.
I am sorry I can go on and on, but let's move on shall we.
haha, didn't vote because i have used all of the above!(at different times-- most of my carpc install was done in conjunction with a alarm install which was all soldered/taped)
i thought most newer cars used coded-chip type immobilizers? that would go through a different low-voltage line that you would not connect to at all for a remote start unit.
the only ones i am aware of that used resistance-based immobilizers were mid-90's GM's, mostly for cadillac and pontiac brands. though i can ask my brother later about recent dodge/chrysler/jeep/fiat vehicles later(hes a d/c/j/f mechanic after all).
my car is a 2001 with a coded key, and i have added remote start by cutting and soldering the wires, and then electrical taping the connection (though i only use scotch 33+ or 88+ electrical tape for this kind of thing because of it's excellent long term properties)
i don't think i could ever be happy with a video series done by anyone but myself. but i always try to remind myself that videos like this are made for the benefit of the forum, and in many cases, really only made for new members that have very limited experience(also why you will find my posts in many of these videos so that those new members know that there is other alternatives to doing different portions). many times new forum members have very little experience with any custom wiring, so i have supported the crimp method because i believe it is the easiest for a person new to wiring to learn, and will more consistently give a better connection then a new member that has never soldered before. much of the new members here come from building custom computers-- which, in comparison of hardware skills, requires nothing more then a screwdriver, some zipties and spare time..