coded keys they do have, but the resistances i am referring to doesn't use the key as reference. such as your 90's gms. where you can infact cut the vats/passlock 1 or 2 lines and tie in a resistor to match the one the key throughs.
most new cars use the same ignition line on there immo as referance . but its the bcm that says yes this is the right key start the car.
but say you get a cold solder joint on your ignition line in a toyota tacoma, 05-up. the truck will start start fine, but your transmission will slam in and out gear. caused by to much resistance on ignition.
its the computers in the car that do everything now, and if they see to much voltage or to little voltage they wont start, because they us resistance to change the voltage .
most coded keys now are european based. so they are just transponders that say yes this is the right key.
Yes, GM Passkey II is a joke. You can in fact just bypass with putting a resistor in-line that matches key. My Olds Aurora has this system as well. I don't see why anyone would tap into actual ignition wires on the column when switched ignition wire power is readily and more easily available in many other places. One source as mentioned twice in thread already is from the stock radio harness. Which can be utilized by using after market harness and makes for great easy hookup to after market 4 channel amp.
Also, I wouldn't see needing a solder gun unless you are using larger gauge wire. A standard solder iron will work fine with most smaller gauge wiring used in these CarPC applications.
I guess what this is boiling to as it does with many arguments is...it's your car do as you please,if you are doing it for someone else do it the right way. However, it's just easier to do it thr right way the first time, eh?:tape2:
the radio harness is not ignition! its 12v acc line. (fyi)
Originally Posted by sall
and i do agree with you, your car do what you want. and yes if your going to do it, do it right the first time. use the right tools for the right job..
i am not sure if that (eh) was directed to me being canadian ehh..lol
I thought you were referring to ignition as switched power, I apologize! Haha and no it wasn't a quip at you for being Canadian!
after going over connections on another forum, i have reminded myself of a even easier solution that gives even more consistent results:
these are referred to as 'type B connectors' there are tons of links to them on ebay, i chose this link in hopes that it will stay the same longer:
these will handle up to 16ga wire, so they are not suitable for the main power connection for most psu's, but should work for any speaker wires or small gauge accessory wires.
all the datasheets say that you can just stick the wire into them and they will work, though that is not true. strip back the insulation, twist your wires together, insert into the connector, and then just use a pliers to smash it down. as long as the wire is in there, i have never had a bad or loose connection.
I'll second the type b squishy connectors. If you look inside them, its 2 pieces of copper bowed into the shape of a football, and there are little "teeth" everywhere, so nothing is gonna get pulled out. It's only rated to work on un-stripped wire for networking wire/twisted pair (tiny stuff). I had a 3 month break last year, so I decided to take a side 'gig' putting these dvr/wifi/gps/4 camera/mic systems in cop cars to help out a friend of a friend. He had bags with these by the thousands, he said they were cheap and good, and they were. You can close them with your finger against your thumb, thats how easy they crush, so when u use the end of some wire strippers it basically welds the 2 sides together w/ that much pressure. The other thing they introduced me to is those little squares with double sided tape on the back. The ones you stick to the firewall (or wherever) and it gives you a nice point made for a wire-tie, without messing with anything else by pulling on it so hard to tighten the tie, those are great too! I had been using the wire-ties with the loop above the 'head' to shoot a screw thru, how dumb was that, shootn screws thru stuff when there are wonderful sticky squares out there... Order the type b's from an electronics wholesaler by at least the hundred... I imagine you can get them down to under a penny each if you order enough... You'll use em.
I like to use the "Solder and Seal" type crimp connectors. I know that sounds redundant...and it is, but at least for my application, I need them to be both vibration proof and waterproof. First you strip your wire, crimp the connector on and then use a heat gun or micro-torch to heat the connector up. This flows the built-in solder slug into your wire and shrinks the heat-shrink style seal around the outside at the same time. They're pricy but you get what you pay for.
This link above is for a kit but you can get them a lot cheaper if you know which type/size you want (most likely from a different vendor, Grainger is great but not the cheapest).
i have used a ton of those on projects and have had mixed results with the adhesive/foam-- in cases of stressing the connection, the foam can tear apart from the adhesive.. so i always run a screw through the middle just to be sure.
Originally Posted by epulliam
I think that might be brand, maybe age too? I'll hafta look at what I have. I got some one time that were sub par, but ever since I've used all sizes of the same brand, and the adhesive tape on these is ridiculous. When you do need to take one off, you have to pry it so hard you go thru the plastic before it comes off, and you peel from the middle where you ripped thru the plastic. Heat, cold, vibration, damp conditions on fiberglass in a boat, never had one with the good adhesive fail. It actually ****es me off more often because they are such a btch to remove. They take paint off the firewall, and if you don't soak them first, you will scratch the crap out of your boat removing them. I think the plastic part is the same for most brands, just different adhesive tape, i'll look and see if the good ones say 3M or whatever on the peel off. I have used a couple on my quad, and I run that thing completely under the water so deep I hafta stand on the rack to keep the back tires from floating, and they haven't let go yet. All the factory installed clamps and wire guides didn't last long once I put a snorkel on it, but these are more likely to cause me grief because I need to remove one than one falling off allowing a wire to get cooked. They are such a dumb little thing, but I don't know how I never knew about them until a year ago, I was shooting screws thru everything like you were saying.
Originally Posted by soundman98
if you've got a link to them that would be great.
i believe the ones i have always used are Gardner Bender brand, and i thought they used 3m adhesive.