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Thread: Car Computer Install: Wiring The Car

  1. #21
    Variable Bitrate chris350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by optikalefx View Post
    because the amp should have its own power line. The other power line will already be split in the trunk to all those accessories. From what I read, for the best, uninterrupted sound, you should have a dedicated power line for your amp. I'm sure a more technical reason will show up here in a few days.
    somehow this doesn't make sense... for one thing.. the power source is from the same place, the battery terminal. I understand power will find the way with least amount of resistance to flow ..

    ok here is two scenarios :

    1. you use the two wire both start at the (+) battery terminal, power will still flow. If the amp draws a lot of amps won't the battery feel the drain and hence anything connected to the battery....like the car pc..

    2. you use one wire (like i always do), one less wire to deal with when routing it thought the car. use a large gauge wire to handle the work load, use a distribution block and sort out power from there...

    my point goes back to the source, its not a dedicated line since its being shared in this setup. i think the only way for a dedicated line is to have two batteries... in either case power is still being shared.. if it deems making a cleaner signal... i just don't see it....

    i don't know... slap me silly and call me stupid if I'm wrong...
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  2. #22
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    either way is acceptable. unsure installers use more then one line off the battery . unsure why maybe to prevent confusion ????

    DC power in a car in dirty power to begin with. so giving it own power really doesnt make for better sound.thats an old install-tale. proper grounding and adding a stiffening cap will clean up your power alil bit. to achieve quality sound. start investing is good equipment..

    1. Source..
    2. Amps...
    3. Cabling...

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  3. #23
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    oooh, now we're going to bring caps into this?

    would you happen to have any technical documentation on how a capacitor improves the sound quality? i have heard it claimed, but never seen any freq sweeps with and without a cap showing the difference..

    but i have read plenty of discussions on how caps are unnecessary from a power standpoint in car audio.

  4. #24
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    From what a signals and RF guy told me, a good cap can clean up the waveform - apparently he's used an o-scope to compare them. I have access to a very good o-scope, and if I can swing it I'll see if I can get a cap and check for myself if there's any difference in my system.
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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    oooh, now we're going to bring caps into this?

    would you happen to have any technical documentation on how a capacitor improves the sound quality? i have heard it claimed, but never seen any freq sweeps with and without a cap showing the difference..

    but i have read plenty of discussions on how caps are unnecessary from a power standpoint in car audio.
    woe woe woe.

    i never said putting a cap in will improve sound directly. i said it will clean up your power, as DC is dirty to begin with. so it makes your power signal more stable.
    if you know anything about dc power , you know that if measured on an oscilloscope, dc power contains many peaks and valleys, and its proven that if you put a stiffening cap in line that it filters the majority of of this out creating more stable effient power. to be used.
    so in theory , it has the effects to allow the amp to smoother .then yes it will create better sound but not enough notice.
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    the dotted line is a generic dc circuit with your standard retifier
    the red line is the same generic circuit with a stiffening cap or smoothing cap

    if you want to waste your time then please go ahead and look it up...

    look up dc electrical ripple i am sure you'll find something
    Last edited by Zerohour2100; 12-08-2011 at 10:53 PM.

  6. #26
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    That unfiltered waveform is not from a generic DC supply circuit.

    That waveform is for "part" of a DC power supply powered from the mains “without a filter cap.” The diagram is usually used for the purpose of studying/explaining the effects of a capacitor in a linear AC to DC supply and its effect on removing low frequency mains ripple in order to make a Generic unregulated DC supply.

    That display has no real bearing on what you will see on a scope when you place a cap on a DC line carrying “complex transient” noise.

    Sometimes a cap may help overcome poor design in equipment supply line rejection, poor wiring layout, cable selection, equipment connection and interconnect wiring and other system (including charging system) design problems.

    In the above I’m not talking about using a cap to try and hold a short transient voltage supply to a 1000w amp in an attempt to overcome voltage drop or battery problems – sigh!
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    the above diagram is part of a ac to dc power supply. which oddly enough is a caaarrrss charging system. but it also shows the same ripple effect that runs through out a dc network in a car.

    the dia. above is out of a study guide. easiest way to show effects of altinator ripple. which i.e is what ?

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    this is actual dc ripple through an o scope. caused from an ac-dc part in very car called an altinator...
    the cap if large enough. will be charged and when its charged and the voltage dips in the main line its on the cap is there to maintain the same voltage as it was before it dipped. give or take
    i am not talking about it emliminating noise or any of that nonsense. i am simply referring to how it will stabilize the voltage running through the dc network in the particular line it's in...

  8. #28
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    Guys, I have decided to delete this post.

    Reason: Like most technical conversations on a purely technical standpoint I read what is posted in a pure technical way, there are too many misunderstandings between posts and in takes too much thread space to fully explain each other’s position.

    In the interest of keeping this thread on the subject of how to wire up a vehicle I have deleted this post.
    Last edited by Mickz; 12-09-2011 at 04:11 AM.
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  9. #29
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    i don't think anyone can argue that automotive power is not dirty.. and i am not looking for proof of that dirty power, but proof that cleaner power will in fact make the audio signal better.

    nearly all name-brand amps have large capacity capacitors on the power input stage. so, why aren't these good enough-- those caps should provide plenty of filtering for the amps needs right? why do you need to add a cap to something that already has a filtering circuit built into it?

    also, if my memory is right, most a/b amps use high voltage power rails-- stepping up the input voltage to something like 30-40v. wouldn't any dirty power need be corrected before stepping up the voltage to allow for a cooler running amp?

    but all of this is something that can be taken care of at the amplifier design stage--if i know cars have dirty power, i can promise those engineers that build the amps know about it. or is this just a limitation of lower end car audio?

    i digress... part of this is my frustration with the current car audio market, and how they seem to be progressing so slowly into power design stuff that i am starting to utilize at the hobbyist level-- so i know they had access to it years ago...

  10. #30
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    Car Computer Install: Wiring The Car

    I don't think anyone can argue that automotive power is not dirty and i am not looking for proof of that dirty power, but proof that cleaner power will in fact make the audio signal better.I went a different route.
    I ran the 0 gauge wire through the engine bay, under the car to the bottom of the passenger seat. I then drilled two holes in the floor. Installed a grommet in each hole that seal as when you run the cable through and tighten them.

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