are you testing the entire carpc with the desktop power supply, or you took it apart and tested the motherboard--bypassing the car-compatible power supply?
the first plan of attack is to always check the connectors, and also re-seat your memory--that is usually the most common cause of the issue.
Thanks for the reply!
Originally Posted by soundman98
The first try was the same way that was shown in the video with cover on etc. then took the cover off, checked connections etc. Then disconnected car pc power supply from the MB then connected the power from my desktop PS and got the same results.
I was reading on the MB site that they said the memory is usually what is causing the problems just as you did. So I did try that last night as well with no luck.
So I am guessing that the first thing to replace is a stick of RAM since the minimal things I need to have a POST is PSU (obviously), CPU, at least 1 stick RAM, and Video Card.
I guess I can hook up a speaker to see if I am getting any beeps out of it....
Thanks again for the help. Greatly appreciated!
A bios beep doesn't require external speakers (usually) - most motherboards have a tiny onboard speaker just for that purpose.
it seems more and more boards are making it a add-on-- where there is a header for it, and no speaker is built into the board..
the easiest way to test this is to boot without the ram-- assuming the board is not completely fried, and the speaker is on it, it should start beeping at you because there isn't any ram installed..
and if that first test went ok, if you have extra ram to try, that is a good first step. otherwise, if you have a pc repair shop/parts store nearby, they are usually ok with loaning some ram for you to test with-- just be sure to take the whole system in there so that it is easier to test(they usually don't like the ram to leave the building).
I seen the 4 pin header.
That's actually a good idea to take it in to a shop, but the ones here in phx seem to charge just to use their door...I am going to run to the store and pick up a stick. My brother-in-law is wanting to build one too. So it won't be a waste.
Thanks for all the comments, ill report back when I give it a try.
Well just got home and still no go.
So by eliminating the RAM as being bad, is the thought that I have a bad motherboard?
You think the fact that I'm using a usb keyboard, instead of a ps2 keyboard have anything to do with it? I read on their absite some were having issues with logitech keyboards....and that is what I have.....
Are these motherboards prone to having these troubles? I seen an ASUS MB today when i picked up the RAM, and was tempted to pick it up...
if you are using a similar board was what optikal used(component processor), then also try to double check that your processor and heatsink are correctly seated in the socket--this can also cause similar issues.
after that, one of the last steps is to unplug all the external devices-- hdd, keyboard, mouse, etc-- and just leave the screen plugged in. if it still doesn't display the POST screen, then there is a very good chance it is the motherboard.
I double checked the processor and looked like it was good, hard to really get a good feeling of being absolutely sure with the way the lever locks. Tried again and still no go, took everything off except monitor and still have nothing. I am getting a new motherboard tomorrow and try again.
Thanks for the help.
OK, I have a question. I have a lot of equipment that all has to be connected together. Im not sure how to fuse it all though. Basically I have two Car PC units, each one has a fuse then connected directly to the second battery. That I know is correct. My issue are the amps. I have 4 amps going in, all of them on a 4 way distribution block. My plan was to have a line come from the battery, to a fuse, then to the distro block, then to the amps. Is that correct though, or should I have all the amps fused on their own?
what kind of amps, and what fuse size do each have?