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Thread: Car Computer Install: Backup Camera Fix

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    yes it can be-- the camera should be drawing less then 200mA for non lighted versions, and possibly in the range of 500mA for the lighted versions.
    by feeding it regulated power, they are hoping to extend it's lifespan for a while longer.



    the one that comes with every lilliput screes? not worth it-- that is just a very, very simple noise filter, and does nothing for power filtering.

    I dunno what filter your speaking of with the monitor, but I get filters on ebay all the time that do the job.. Turns any PDC into pure DC, clean, never a issue...


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/15A-25V-DC-p...item3cb8b78234

  2. #22
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    i have no problem with the rear back up camera its usually something that come out clean , but the amp why is it on the floor? i actually would've put it on the back of the seat and hid the wires under the fabric of the seat and also ur running power along with the rca's on a 4 channel . thats a no no how else do u think alternator whine gets into the system so easily . the ground i woudl've cleaned paint and gone directly to floor pane or somewhere else thats close enough u want a short ground for any amp at least 18 inchs. also i've found if u dont put a filter inline with the rcas going from car pc to amp u get whine too which is produced by no inline filter on the atx power supply .it's ok i forgive since u guys arent mobile electronics installers :-) i just usually have a gripe on that kinda stuff .power wires should be with power and signal should be with signal sorry for rant .
    Quote Originally Posted by optikalefx View Post
    Really? I thought it was pretty well tied up and organized. At least compared to a lot of other installs we've seen over years. Would you have trimmed a lot of the wires to not have any extra slack?

  3. #23
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    Thank you for your Grip!!! Its needed and answers mine and I'm sure others problems/questions.

    Quote Originally Posted by Michae View Post
    i have no problem with the rear back up camera its usually something that come out clean , but the amp why is it on the floor? i actually would've put it on the back of the seat and hid the wires under the fabric of the seat and also ur running power along with the rca's on a 4 channel . thats a no no how else do u think alternator whine gets into the system so easily . the ground i woudl've cleaned paint and gone directly to floor pane or somewhere else thats close enough u want a short ground for any amp at least 18 inchs. also i've found if u dont put a filter inline with the rcas going from car pc to amp u get whine too which is produced by no inline filter on the atx power supply .it's ok i forgive since u guys arent mobile electronics installers :-) i just usually have a gripe on that kinda stuff .power wires should be with power and signal should be with signal sorry for rant .

  4. #24
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    my guess is he would wire it all up, see if it works then cut all wires to needed size, because i cannot see keeping all that extra wire in bundles like he has it..Excess is the mother of noise... lol

  5. #25
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    Yea something like that i usually do it in steps like wire up the audio system first . And usually if u can start the car and have no noise even with nothing connected you can diagnose your noise issues easier

  6. #26
    Low Bitrate ph7ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jensen2000 View Post

    Embed this video


    Sean shows us how to install a backup camera with a Lilliput monitor pre-wired for backup camera connectivity. These special Lilliput monitors have a wire (usually green in color) that extrudes from the back of the circuit board. When this wire receives +12V, the monitor automatically switches from your PC input to AV2, where your camera is connected. So, if you connect this wire to your backup lights and your camera to AV2, when you shift into reverse, the display will switch to your camera input.
    When I installed mine, I just attached both the camera positive, and monitor switch to the same node spliced into the reverse light. If I remember right, it required an extremely small amount of milliamps, and haven't blown a fuse at all yet. So the camera is only on when the reverse lights are on, rather than when the computer is on. There isn't any noticeable dimming in the reverse light either.

    I actually haven't attached the switching wire to the monitor yet. Mine was one of the models without it... There's a thread on here that gives details on how to solder in the missing components to make it switch (2 resistors and a transistor) and I bought the parts, but I really didn't realize how small they were. Its literally going to be like soldering dust. I mean these things make smd led's look giant. Maybe I'll be bored enough one day to take the time to remove the screen and solder in the parts but right now, I just don't use the camera.

  7. #27
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    solder flux. it makes stuff like that a million times easier. as well as a good tweezers, hot air reflow, and lots of practice..


    and you're thinking of larger smd led's, probably plcc6, 5050, or plcc4-- those parts are larger then 3528 size led's

  8. #28
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    I'm having a problem to get my backup cam to display on my lilliput 669GL-70NP/C with the auto switching. The screen changes to video 2 when I put my car in reverse but the screen just stays black and sometime I get a quick flicker of the cam working then it goes out. I set it up the same way as the video. I have good power and ground to cam and I can see the lights on the cam working and I try the video wire to my t.v and it works fine. I'm using the same cam in the video can anyone help me please.

  9. #29
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    there was a problem with the cam right out of the box, I got a more expensive cam and it is working great.
    Last edited by Mikebenz508; 02-28-2013 at 04:57 PM.

  10. #30
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    I am a little late on this but I would power the camera off the reverse lights in the back and run just the video back up front to the display. Filter the power if you need to. Although since they come on only with the lights I wonder if you really need to filter them because standard bulbs will work as somewhat of a filter on their own. LED bulbs may be different.

    The reverse cable generally comes from the front of the vehicle somewhere so you should tie into the wire in the front. Also if you are able to find quick connect connectors that you can make up yourself that would be the preferred method to connect to the monitor instead of splicing as was done in the video. The fewer connections you need to make the better. But maybe I am spoiled because I can get decent connections from 1-4 wires easily with weather tight connectors locally. If they don't need to be weather tight I have options to make as many leads as I need.

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