Another Newb Build... give me a hand here.

**justchat_1** · 10-29-2009, 05:11 PM

People tend to really overdue it when it comes to wire gauge selection. Huge cables may be necessary for high powered amps...but your average car pc draws a fraction of that.

Take a look here:
http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm

12 gauge wiring could easily suffice for even an m4 sized power supply. Smaller power supplies or distances <15ft can use 14-16 gauge without problems.

Probably should have explained it above but the reason to use the same size power and ground or a larger ground then supply is to ensure equal power flow. If less current can flow through the ground then the supply you can cause some serious damage to your equipment. Same thing for ensuring the ground is a true ground.

if you're using a p3 motherboard, chances are there isn't any sata port and 99% of ssd out there is ide, better watch out for that.

I assume you meant to write isn't IDE. Good point...luckily ebay has quite a few listed if you remember to search for it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/OFF-10-Super-Tal...item2c51104eaf

**rickhigginshtbr** · 10-30-2009, 09:03 AM

Originally Posted by Punky

if you're using a p3 motherboard, chances are there isn't any sata port and 99% of ssd out there is ide, better watch out for that.

Dont know why, but that thought popped in my head while watching the Phillies last night

Debating buying my dad a new comp for christmas, may have to pop his comp open to see if it has IDE or SATA... I bought it for him probably 4 years ago new.

Originally Posted by Dougw133

You guys missed what I said. I would run 4-9 to the the Distro block and then if you ever look at the Ground, ign, and acc wire coming off these PSU's the wires are tiny. I wasn't talking about the main supply from the battery.

Already have 0 gauge running back there for the amp, I'll probably run new wiring back off the fuse box in the dash since I'm going to need a constant and switch + anyway, correct?

Originally Posted by justchat_1

Ground should always be the exact same size as your power wire.

Ignition and accessory is only drawing a few mA so pretty much any gauge wire is fine.

sweet, I'll probably run 16 back first since I have a ton of it and see how well it works.

Should I also be considering a voltage regulator or no? I've seen people running with and without them.

**soundman98** · 10-30-2009, 10:08 AM

Originally Posted by rickhigginshtbr

Should I also be considering a voltage regulator or no? I've seen people running with and without them.

it depends on the dc-dc power supply you decide to use-- some require one, others have it built in.

**rickhigginshtbr** · 10-31-2009, 10:57 AM

Originally Posted by soundman98

it depends on the dc-dc power supply you decide to use-- some require one, others have it built in.

Having one built in would probably be easiest, does the FAQ show which ones do/don't?

**DarquePervert** · 10-31-2009, 01:26 PM

Originally Posted by rickhigginshtbr

Having one built in would probably be easiest, does the FAQ show which ones do/don't?

Why don't you go look for yourself?
Some helpful chap posted a link to the FAQs in post #4, above.

**rickhigginshtbr** · 11-01-2009, 10:59 PM

Originally Posted by DarquePervert

Why don't you go look for yourself?
Some helpful chap posted a link to the FAQs in post #4, above.

good call

Can't imagine it going over 320 watts, actually, before all the links died in the FAQ, I'm pretty sure I maxed out around 220 with everything I planned, so a M4-ATX should be fine.

Now, say I go with a 5.1 card, does someone make 3.5mm to rca cables or is it basically a cut/splice thing that wont make a difference?

And... say I go with a 17" wide screen in my trunk lid... for ease, I could use an inverter for that, but, how hard do you think that would be to wire up directly to DC? Yes, it will fit, I was bored at work and mocked up a 20.1" to fit with a tad of the bottom of the plastic shaved.

My car, due to it's current audio set up, is the preferred car to tailgate with, and has seen about 40 Phillies games the past 2 years. One of my main reasons for wanting to do this build is to keep the drunk people out of my front seat to change songs... Plus my Jensen double din being a POS and not finding everything I want in a standard HU.

**DarquePervert** · 11-02-2009, 06:58 AM

Originally Posted by rickhigginshtbr

Now, say I go with a 5.1 card, does someone make 3.5mm to rca cables or is it basically a cut/splice thing that wont make a difference?

You can purchase these cables pre-made.
I know Monster makes one that's designed for iPod (or other MP3 player) use that I understand is good quality. I'm sure there are other brands out there that are just as good without the high price tag.

And... say I go with a 17" wide screen in my trunk lid... for ease, I could use an inverter for that, but, how hard do you think that would be to wire up directly to DC? Yes, it will fit, I was bored at work and mocked up a 20.1" to fit with a tad of the bottom of the plastic shaved.

It all depends on the DC input voltage for the monitor. Most newer monitors have an AC-DC converter inside, so it may require opening up the unit. Some still use a power brick, and those would be easier to convert to DC.

**rickhigginshtbr** · 11-02-2009, 07:44 AM

Originally Posted by DarquePervert

It all depends on the DC input voltage for the monitor. Most newer monitors have an AC-DC converter inside, so it may require opening up the unit. Some still use a power brick, and those would be easier to convert to DC.

Opening it up wouldn't be an issue since I'm going to have to anyway when I glass it into place... Guess I'll start a new thread when the time comes to figure it out. My old work sold VueScape brand, which is made by the same company that makes Star Logic.