Another netbook carputer

**s00pa** · 11-05-2009, 03:05 PM

I have pretty much figured out how I'm going to install my Acer Aspire One in my first car, a 1983 Mitsubishi Sigma SE, but I'll let you guys look my ideas over in case I've missed something.

My basic idea is to dock my One in my car in front of the stock headunit, which will be kept for radio, with both PC and HU running my Sony amps and speakers in the back, which will be manually switched for anti-thump.

Using Centrafuse as frontend.

Using nRoute for GPS.

Will use a cut-up gamepad on my steering wheel for control, and thinking of getting a touchscreen kit for the One.

Will use an old Lego webcam as a reversing camera. At this stage I think I will sling it under the towbar.

I will use a cig socket adaptor to power the One.

I also plan to install a high current second cig socket to power my inverter or peltier-based minifridge.

I also have a Vodafone Vodem for when I'm out of WiFi range, and I may also see if I can use my USB DVB tuner.

So those are my ideas so far, I already have this stuff, but have yet to install any of it, as I don't have the car yet. The first thing I will need to do is install the car audio stuff.

Any questions or comments for me?

**s00pa** · 11-15-2009, 03:05 AM

I was just thinking, if I wired the head unit and computer sound together (with resistors to drop the HU's output to line level), would it be possible for the sound card to be fried by the HU? I don't want to risk the aspire one's sound, so if that's possible I would just use a DPDT changeover switch. It would be useful to have them together if I wanted to have FM radio with GPS voice together, but I will likely never do this anyway.
So basically are sound line-outs ok with a signal in, and are switches in the signal line a noise risk?

**soundman98** · 11-16-2009, 09:11 AM

there are a couple different concepts in your post, so if you could clarify a little:

most head units have both speaker level outputs (known as high level, or have a higher voltage), and have rca outputs (known as low level, or have a much lower voltage).

if you are using the low level rcas to go to the amps, it should not be too much of a problem to combine then if both units are turned on at the same time. the problem lies in that some companies like to have the equipment short the audio outputs when turned off- which could cause a problem if your deck, or computer does this and you want the device off...

another thing to consider, that you touched on is the different level of the 2--if you choose to run them together, you will constantly need to re adjust the audio on both of them to match.

**s00pa** · 11-17-2009, 04:09 AM

Thanks for the reply.

RCA outs on the HU would be helpful, I haven't looked back there, but the HU is the original one - from 1983, so I seriously doubt there would be.

I assumed the output would go open when off - I'll have to remember to check that.

The main thing is, the line out on the netbook isn't at risk of being blown?

Actually, I might just go with the changeover switch and stop worrying about it. DPDT toggles aren't that expensive.

**soundman98** · 11-17-2009, 08:18 AM

the switch should work good.

only a couple decks short out the audio outputs-- so you might not even have one of those decks.

if the original deck does not have pre outs, then you might have a lot more trouble getting everything to match up sound level wise

most audio outputs on computers are relativly hardy, and can handle a small short here and there, but it would be high voltage going back into the port that could blow it.

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