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Thread: New here! hello and a bit of a plan!

  1. #1
    Newbie GiorgaKiSs's Avatar
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    Smile New here! hello and a bit of a plan!

    Hello everyone I'm George and i'm from Greece! First of all, thanks for your "walkthroughs" and FAQs for everything we need to know about car-pc and not only this!

    It's my first post here and since i'm a computer enthusiast i decided to put a car-pc in my Volkswagen Jetta mk-2! I'm a bit of a planner so here is my iamge plan of what i figured out that i need for my car-pc after hours of reading.

    VER. 1.0

    First of all i need you to tell me if the whole system is going.......to work!
    And we continue to more questions!

    Questions:
    No1 : How many Amperes fuse for the screen ?
    No2 : It's better to power up my car-pc, before or after the power capacitor ?
    No3 : I don't think there is a problem with manual on/off dashboard mounted car-pc switch ??
    No4 : I have not still decided where to hide my car-pc! Anyone know if Jetta has a hidden place somewhere behind the dashboard ?


    Facts :
    No1 : I already have installed a fused wiring to capacitor, capacitor, distributer, and 2 amplifiers.
    No2 : I don't want my car-pc to boot with my car so this is why I decided not to use the ignition command. (Maybe i 'll use it later!)
    No3 : I don't want it connected all the time to my amplifiers so that's why i decided to use aux-in which is in the front panel of my JVC front end. Whenever i want to i'll connect it.
    No4 : Maybe i 'll make a USB input somewhere on the dashboard!


    Ok, so....the PowerCalculator calculates for me, even with 7 more USB devices, plus one keyboard and one mouse (that makes 9 devices) and even one 60W graphics adapter (i don't think on-board uses such a lot of power but i put it just for sure) that i need 196W peak power. So my choice seems to be correct about DC-DC M4-ATX power supply.


    In my image i have some numbers. Below i give you links for what i'm going to use :
    (1)Power Supply
    (2)Mainboard
    (3)CPU - AMD Sempron 140
    (4)2 DDR2 Sticks - 1GB each (no link!)
    (5)7" VGA TFT LCD Touch Screen

    Any suggestions/advice are welcome!
    Thanks in advance for your help!

  2. #2
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    looks like it is very well planned!

    so far, here are the issues that i see with it, you or others might disagree though

    the capacitor is useless--it is really not helping anything but lessing the wheight of your wallet. there is a recent thread in the car audio section about that..

    for the remote power switch, and reset button, i understand why you want the power switch, but i would highly recommend a reset button also-- i also thought i would never use both, but wired them up because i had the wire(a single cat5 takes care of status led's and buttons..), and have used it more than i would like to admit... for the power button, i am not exactly sure how that is going to work-- most of the dc-dc power supplies have a 'dummy' mode where they just stay on all the time, but can eat up the battery staying in that condition(i think)... most dc-dc's use the switched line to turn off the computer, and go into a 'power saving' mode, where they consume less power until the switched line goes active again.

    what about connecting your switch to controlling that remote line on the dc-dc instead? this way, you can have both controls, and the advantage of power saving(with my dsatx, i have left my car sit for weeks, and i don't have to worry about it not starting).

    the other issues is the usb hdd. i have not tried it, but i thought there was issues with them, similar to the cf-ide adpater setups. just go with a cheap hard drive, 3.5, 2.5, it really doesn't matter...

    1. fuse for the screen-- i beleive that my 629 led screen needs something like a 5 amp fuse-- though a 2-4 amp fuse should also work for a led backlit screen, but definatly never above 10 amps for the screen.

    2. like i said above, i think it would be better to remove the cap all together, but it shouldn't matter whether you wire it before or after it..

    3. got that one above too.

    4. can't speak for the jetta, but overall, most will install it in trunk, or under one of the seats. there usually isn't too much room under the dash--sometimes there is just enough room for a tiny motherboard--unless you remove the radio, which you said wasn't a option right now, and with your current motherboard selection, i have not seen any dash with that much flat, open space...

  3. #3
    Raw Wave
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    Post Edit: I missed SoundMan's reply, but we have some aspects in common - viz the cap! So back to what I wrote.... Cheers.

    I saw the capacitor and thought don't bother (here are better solutions).
    Then I saw the its 40A fuse and thought definitely don't bother.
    But alas, you already have it.
    And think it is in the wrong place - but it depends what you are using if for. (It should be across the biggest amp. But I'd suggest a fuse larger than 40A for it - I think that is likely to blow if there is a step voltage change (5.2F is pretty big - almost as big as a $20 battery, but if it has a low ESR, its currents(s) can be high).
    (Note that I am one of those that seeks to find out why a capacitor should be used in place of other better and cheaper options. I have yet to find a valid technical reason.)

    I suggest you don't have a ground connection between the battery & ?A Fuse and the screen Power - but that is obviously an accidental inclusion.

    That Touch Screen fuse should be rated to protect the screen unless the screen has it's own fuse - in which case the fuse is near the battery and to protect the wiring (in case it overloads or that short to chassis isn't removed).
    But at 9W, a 1A fuse is probably a minimum size.
    But at that (minor) consumption, I'd common it with the PC supply input.

    The M4-ATX requires a fuse of 40A for its own use (assuming ~250W input) (and hence why the 1A-2A screen makes little difference).
    And I'd probably take them off the cap - they probably won't benefit from the cap.


    But I'll let others with CarPuter experience suggest the rest, or counter-suggest.

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    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldSpark View Post
    The M4-ATX requires a fuse of 40A for its own use (assuming ~250W input) (and hence why the 1A-2A screen makes little difference).
    just a small correction(or maybe i need to be corrected?)-- the m4 has a 25 amp fuse on it, but the listed max current limits of the m4 add up to 40 amps--what gives?

    i realize that it is max current on all rails, instead of the nominal current, but shouldn't that add up to the fuse size on the psu?

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    Thread moved to proposed setup forum.
    Quote Originally Posted by ghettocruzer View Post
    I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
    Want to:
    -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
    -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

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    Newbie GiorgaKiSs's Avatar
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    Wow guys! You are great! Greetz to you all! Please use more common words because my english are not too good! thanks!

    @soundman98
    Ok, i can change what manual switch will control. That's easy! I' ll send it to the PSU.

    I'm planning going big with my sound system, that's why i installed a capacitor.....anyway, i'll probably going to sell it and put a higher Amperes battery. We'll see....

    Yeah, ok about the HDD.....this is still on planning......maybe i'll get a real HDD! I chose this way for lower power consumption! and for a more Concentrated (dunno if this is correct :P) solution! i mean compact!

    Can u figuge out what'up with the fuses? because from the psu image i can see that no fuse exists!

    @OldSpark
    Of course it's an accidental inclusion but what do you exactly mean ? I should use a ground for the TFT screen......how else can i power it ?

    I was planning to go big with my sound system, so that's why i installed a big capacitor! Anyway i 'll probably sell it to a friend and buy a new bigger Ah battery. Like a 75 one or more.....because my current is 45 i think

    But at that (minor) consumption, I'd common it with the PC supply input.
    What exactly do u mean "you would common it with..." ?
    Sorry but my english seems to be poor

    So....what for the "? fuse" 1A or 5~10 A ????

    Do u suggest a new fused wire directly from battery only for car pc ?

  7. #7
    Newbie GiorgaKiSs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bugbyte View Post
    Thread moved to proposed setup forum.
    I assume that is an honor to me! right ? Bugbyte just to inform ya i own a 1303LS Beetle '72 ! hehe!

    EDIT: lol.......what honor!?!?!? you posted in the wrong section!! hahaha!

  8. #8
    Raw Wave
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    One little detail that I think slipped by.....If you want to use the touch part of the touch screen you will need that usb wire connected too (not just the vga).

  9. #9
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    i really don't know if a usb drive is similar to a compact flash card, but assume they are due to the similar usage, and memory type(feel free to prove me wrong )..

    there have been a lot of issues in the past with getting memory cards loaded-- it requires a lot of time and careful software choices...

    a normal hard drive will get you up and running a lot faster and easier.
    or, if you want the speed, and low power consumption, look into Solid State Hard drives-- they aren't cheap, but are fast and (i think) less power hungry..

    here is the link to the thread i was talking about:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-...capacitor.html

    there is a lot of info, and oldspark tends to ramble a little(in both this thread and the cap thread ), but if you sort through the junk there is a lot of good info on why caps are not helping a sound system (or, i should say, have not been proven to help a sound system..)

    summary of the thread: the amount of power that the cap can store and send out is a much smaller amount than even a small 12 volt battery--so a 2nd battery will help more with low voltage(like when your subs are pounding) than a capacitor...

    there was different versions of the m4, the most current version, for sale in the mp3car store shows a fuse in the bottom right hand corner, just above the inputs(it is a tan 25 amp fuse, so it blends in well..).

    for the "common it with" i think he means to connect the ground to the pc power also(instead of connecting it to the car).

    i think a 5 amp fuse should be enough for the screen.

    for the pc power, if you can use the power wire from your audio stuff, just fuse it after the split, and adjust the fuse size by the battery for the added power.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiorgaKiSs View Post
    Wow guys! You are great! Greetz to you all! Please use more common words because my english are not too good! thanks!

    @soundman98
    Ok, i can change what manual switch will control. That's easy! I' ll send it to the PSU.

    I'm planning going big with my sound system, that's why i installed a capacitor.....anyway, i'll probably going to sell it and put a higher Amperes battery. We'll see....

    Yeah, ok about the HDD.....this is still on planning......maybe i'll get a real HDD! I chose this way for lower power consumption! and for a more Concentrated (dunno if this is correct :P) solution! i mean compact!

    Can u figuge out what'up with the fuses? because from the psu image i can see that no fuse exists!

    @OldSpark
    Of course it's an accidental inclusion but what do you exactly mean ? I should use a ground for the TFT screen......how else can i power it ?

    I was planning to go big with my sound system, so that's why i installed a big capacitor! Anyway i 'll probably sell it to a friend and buy a new bigger Ah battery. Like a 75 one or more.....because my current is 45 i think


    What exactly do u mean "you would common it with..." ?
    Sorry but my english seems to be poor

    So....what for the "? fuse" 1A or 5~10 A ????

    Do u suggest a new fused wire directly from battery only for car pc ?
    what he means by "common it with the PSU" is that your probably going to have a 4 pin molex connector extra comming off your M4 ATX PSU, so you can just use the 12v rail from there. well i think thats what he means anyway.

    as for the HDD, i know solid state drives use very little power (like 2 watts or something tiny), a regular disk drive might use more, but i cant imagine theres much difference between an external and internal HDD in terms of power. probably faster to use the interal anyway. i haven't actually researched this myself, so you might want to look yourself if it's such an issue.

    speaking of power, i would make sure you have the correct power amount on the correct rails. im still planning mine so im not 100% how to do that hehe.

    have fun!

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