Not sure if anyone mentioned the M2-ATX. Works fine for me. I have the i3-530 CPU.
No regular software stresses the CPU to the max. Like Prime95 does. No need to overspecify the power supply for a burn-in tool.
I got maximum 62 Watt primary (on the 12 V input) when running PTGui, a photo software that maxes out the four threads. i3-530 CPU, 16GB, 3x Intel SSD. If the efficiency of the M2-ATX were 85%, that would mean 53 Watt secondary on the rails.
Power supply power ratings mean the output power.
The i3-530 is the most efficient (power to performance) CPU or at least was half a year ago.
I'd surely try the M3-ATX first if that is recommended by a reputable dealer.
PS: Stay away from the Atom. It's already been outdated by years since it was introduced, let alone in a few years.
Nobody is suggesting that you plan your power needs around an app to stress the CPU.
Another reason not to go with the M3:
The 12v output is dependent on the input amperage.
so if you're hanging out enjoying the PC or showing off or whatever, you're draining the battery.
The battery will drain a bit, and provide less amps across the board. The power output capability of the M3 drops, as well.
And then what?
Has anyone tested an M3 with a voltage drop so that it doesn't provide enough power?
What could/would it do to the hardware it is powering?
At the very least, the system will suffer a hard shutdown. Anyone who has used Windoze knows that this carries potential risks to data integrity.
Is the Opus 360 overkill? Perhaps.
But it's better to have power that you don't need than need power you don't have.
come on now... Per the m3-atx specs:
11 - 16 volts = 6A (8A peak)
So if your below 11V power drops..., but you can't get there because 11.2V is the deep charge shutdown threshold. Or am I reading the specs wrong?
I'm not saying which PSU to go with -- as the OP didn't specify all his requirements. How important is space? or the selected case? He's already identified that this selection was mostly due to "future proofing", suggesting he doesn't do anything outside the *norm* (also suggesting he could go with a slightly less power hungry CPU). He hasn't mentioned cost of the different options (if that's a player), etc, etc. I was just noting that his list could be used to create a stable CarPC given certain perameters -- most importantly being not maxing out the CPU usage and powering devices smartly.
OK i decided to go with the M4-ATX, ah some of you may sigh but i think for the price i got it for and at 250Watts it will be fine. Considering Im readying on AVSforums that people are using the M3-ATX with the same setup as mine without issues.
Anyway, with the lillput monitors are they commanded to turn on via the USB lead that plugs into the PC or do i need to setup a relay?
Thanks again for your comments
power is applied to the unit, it will turn on the screen. You must turn that feature on under options in the Lilliput first. Only time you will need the relay is if you are not powering the Lilliput directly from the PSU. If you are, then simply connect the Lilliput to the 12V rail. To save 12V power though, I recommend just using the relay method and the supplied 12V regulator that came with the screen.
Nirwana Project, the Android/Win 7 hybrid system!
1X Ainol Novo Flame Tab
3x Perixx Touchpads
3x 7 inch Screens
1X 7 inch motorized Screen
1x Win 7 PC