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Thread: A Real Car PC - 1999 Honda Accord Ex project

  1. #21
    Newbie MatneyX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by intrygue83 View Post
    Hey Mat thanks for the bezel links. This is gonna be great!!!
    It's Dave, or Matney (which is my last name)... common mistake, though, which I completely understand, so no harm, no foul.

    Quote Originally Posted by intrygue83 View Post
    so don't run a capacitor or do? i do plan on adding 2 10"s in the back with a custom side case and 2 amps. for Hi's & Lo's but thats it.
    You'll get different opinions on this all over this board, and any other that talk about car audio. Dollar-to-watt (or ohm... I'm not sure), upgrade your primary battery, do the Big Three upgrade, upgrade your alternator, add a second high-end battery, and THEN add a cap. In that order (though the Big Three could be done first, I'm sure.) But a cap will help keep the power supplied to your equipment steady by reducing the load from your subs on the overall pull from the battery. IMO, I'd rather install one and NEVER need it, than not install one, have my subs hit too hard and FUBAR my PS.

  2. #22
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    wow, so much info, and so much of it wrong...

    and the 'real carpc' comment was a little out of line--you are using the OS to define what a real carpc is? Os's are easier to change then hardware--as a IT person you know this.. most define a carpc as something that uses computer hardware-- weather it is a aurdino, or 775 socket motherboard..

    1st. CAPACITORS: use in a cars power circuit are useless. they will work as everyone explains them for the first tiny power dip, but after that, they become a parasitic load, and only help the original manufacturers wallet. if you have money to burn, i recommend you burn it before buying a cap..

    note: i have been asking, and searching for reasonable evidence that capacitors help car audio systems for years, and, while finding many topics on how they hurt car audio performance, have never come across any documented proof on how they help a car audio system. if you have proof that caps help a system more then hurt, please post up how and why, i am extremely interested in this information.


    2nd. i question if you have time for a hobby like this if you say that you don't have time to build a pc from scratch. while many have trouble-free setups that don't have problems, many times, it takes lots of years of tweaking, and tuning to get to that point.. if you don't have the time for hardware, you probably don't have the time for software..

    3rd. those car interfaces that you put down are there for a reason. try hitting the 'start' button at 55mph on a bumpy road. by the time you press it, you will have lost concentration on the road for so long, it would be a miracle if you don't hit anything..

    4th. AG coatings will many times increase glare-- because they diffuse the light across the entire panel. so instead of just a small part of the screen being blotted out by the sun, the entire screen becomes un-readable..

    5th. power-- read up on the different power supply options. there is a good option for that board, and i have listed all of those different options in the past posts.

    6th. 8" screen. check the fabrication area. there is no way to fit this in your dash without a lot of work. for a bolt-in solution check the bybyte kits.

    7th. gps. check out the bu353 reciever. it is a very common, reliable, and trouble-free solution for gps recievers.

    8th. battery/power. for just a atom based carpc, no upgrades are necessary.(the atom is something like a 15w tdp processor-- it is like adding 3 phone chargers to your car..)

    for car audio, it depends how crazy your going-- a simple 100-200w amp/sub combo really doesn't justify huge upgrades.. a 3,000 watt system would require multiple alternators, and batteries, and doubling up on the big-3 upgrade...

    the big mistake that everyone makes is the connections. with good, solid connections, you can get away with a lot more then a shoddy installation. my system has a alpine 150w rms 4ch amp, and a 300w rms sony amp, and a upgraded battery ground.. even cranked, i have zero dimming issues..

    for a eq, what are you looking for?

  3. #23
    Newbie MatneyX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    1st. CAPACITORS: use in a cars power circuit are useless. they will work as everyone explains them for the first tiny power dip, but after that, they become a parasitic load, and only help the original manufacturers wallet. if you have money to burn, i recommend you burn it before buying a cap..
    Where are you finding info that they actually do more harm than good? I've seen the claims in other forums, but without citing anything to back it up, where Crutchfield recommends them (#12). Sorry, without citations, I'm trusting the pros.

    But I feel I need to point out, I did recommend everything else before adding a cap.
    "Have we grown so hard we can't feel right or wrong, or have we grown so cold we just don't care?" - Dave Matney

    I don't currently have a CarPC, I just ask a lot of questions.

  4. #24
    Newbie jfxwave's Avatar
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    I'm far from a expert in Caps but what i was told they do help allot, when your bass hits your amplifier draw more amps and your volts drop and the more your volts drop the more amps you pull and the hotter your amplifier get and it's all down hill from there. With a cap it place it will help the volts stay up and thus less amps you pull less heat is generated from the amplifier. now if you have solid bass and no gaps you will bring the cap down and it will no longer help but it don't hurt anything unless your alternator sucks. By the way a high output alternator and good battery is way better then a cap so upgrade those first.

    Just what i was told no paper to back up anything i said LOL

    Look at it this way find a 220v appliance and a 120v of the same type/equal (motor or compressor) and you will notice that the 120 draws more amps then the 220 does.
    Last edited by jfxwave; 02-22-2011 at 10:06 PM.

  5. #25
    Constant Bitrate TheLandYacht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by intrygue83 View Post
    I don't wat to fully replace the computer. don't feel like building one because I don't have the time to do that and run a business. I think I need to pull the board out of the original casing and build my own and add a fan for cooling. I just can't figure out how to convert the power from the mini atx to the battery. I see the molex's but what part do I need to run it to the battery?
    Ouch. I think you're operating under a HUGE misconception if you're thinking it's as simple as removing the existing PSU & running a line straight from the battery to the motherboard. A few points.

    1. 12 volts is only one of several specific voltages required by most motherboards (and other system components).
    2. Those specific voltages need to be regulated rather heavily, a spike of just 5% on one of those voltages has the potential not only to cause system instability, but to "fry" components.
    3. Hence 12 volt PSU's, which perform the same functions as a standard 120 volt (household power) PSU does, but using the 12 volt vehicle electrical system.
    4. And the biggest point, when we say 12 volt vehicle electrical system, it's really a misnomer. Although the battery is designed to maintain a nominal 12 volts, starting the vehicle or doing something equally energy intensive can drop that down into the 10 volt range. As if that weren't enough, while the vehicle is running, that voltage is normally somewhere closer to 13.8 volts.

    So, you see, there's a huge difference between what most people think of as the 12 volt system in their cars...and real, filtered, regulated 12 volts...which is only one of the voltages required.

  6. #26
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    this is a great guide-- that was written by a very experienced audio guru, that goes into great electrical detail on why capacitors don't help audio systems-- just be sure you have your thinking caps on!!

    and keep in mind-this is posted on a site dedicated to high spl-- if caps really helped people hit higher spl numbers, this would have been refuted with numbers proving it.. i got to page 2, and didn't find anyone giving proof he was wrong(there was the one post saying that he did all the testing wrong, but never came back with proof)

    http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/ac...capacitor.html

    ---------- Post added at 09:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:18 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by MatneyX View Post
    But I feel I need to point out, I did recommend everything else before adding a cap.
    yes, i should have made a point that the other stuff is fine, and required for higher-power setups, but got caught-up in a already-long post..

    hey, with less then 50 posts, your doing better then me when i started here-- back then, at least half the stuff i posted was wrong

  7. #27
    Newbie jfxwave's Avatar
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    I read that guide and if you look at post number 20 thats how i was thinking, if caps are bad way does everything electrical use them?

    I was reading some more post and people were talking about how headlights would dim and placing a cap solved that problem and other people were saying it only helped dimming lights, well if the lights are dimming what do you think the amplifier are doing? I think the amplifier would sound better at the design voltage they were made. Another that got my attention was a alternator cannot respond quick enough so that what the cap does is take over for that 100th ms. Sounds good to me? plus the guy who wrote that article was one of the people who made caps and sold them. one guy even had one and still using it " I have an old school Monster Cap(made by Monster Cable) and it has written on it "exclusively engineered and designed by Richard Clark and David Navone"


    I have a 20f cap with 6800 Watts but have not installed it yet, i will do my own test to see what heppens (i have 250 alternator and 2 battery's with an isolator also)
    Last edited by jfxwave; 02-22-2011 at 11:25 PM.

  8. #28
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    what can i say? i don't really know richard clark, so i don't know if it was financial motivation, or something else...

    but as they say, money talks.. if everyone says dual cone speakers are the best ever, what are companies going to sell? or the 10k hid kits everyone buys-- they are technically illegal, and have less visible light, but everyone buys them over 4k hids...



    i used to have a link to a different post that had the pictures, i wish i could find it again...


    part of the issue with dimming headlights is that power is getting pulled away from the headlight circuit to provide sufficient power to the higher draw item-- the amps. so it is unrelated, but related to high power amps...

    if you frequent any car audio forums, you know just how many discussions on this there are...

    i haven't experienced it, but i have read of reports that many spl guys report higher/better numbers when they don't use a cap..


    what i don't understand is if caps are good for a audio system, why is it so hard to find proof of that? wouldn't there have been someone somewhere that was able to show that a cap allows for the sub to dig lower, or get tweeters play smoother?

    in the original post i had that had pics to the above link, most members agreed that the article proved caps were bad from a power perspective. but the article lacked any proof from a audio perspective ie: reguardless of power input, that caps help/hurt.

    so, with the info that i currently have-- that article (and if your search for older posts by member Oldspark, his electrical experience also supports this)-- caps are bad. but, as a person who is more concerned with sound quality, and driver staging, i am open to being proven wrong. all i need is proof... if you can prove that a cap will get my sub to dig 2hz deeper/play smoother, and make my other drivers play smoother, etc, you can count on me installing a cap...

    ---------- Post added at 11:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:06 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by TheLandYacht View Post
    Ouch. I think you're operating under a HUGE misconception if you're thinking it's as simple as removing the existing PSU & running a line straight from the battery to the motherboard. A few points.

    1. 12 volts is only one of several specific voltages required by most motherboards (and other system components).
    2. Those specific voltages need to be regulated rather heavily, a spike of just 5% on one of those voltages has the potential not only to cause system instability, but to "fry" components.
    3. Hence 12 volt PSU's, which perform the same functions as a standard 120 volt (household power) PSU does, but using the 12 volt vehicle electrical system.
    4. And the biggest point, when we say 12 volt vehicle electrical system, it's really a misnomer. Although the battery is designed to maintain a nominal 12 volts, starting the vehicle or doing something equally energy intensive can drop that down into the 10 volt range. As if that weren't enough, while the vehicle is running, that voltage is normally somewhere closer to 13.8 volts.

    So, you see, there's a huge difference between what most people think of as the 12 volt system in their cars...and real, filtered, regulated 12 volts...which is only one of the voltages required.
    back to topic

    great info, but one detail needs to be added-- the specific board that the OP wants to use requires a psu capable of providing a single 19v 4Amp output. there are three dc-dc psu's available..

  9. #29
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    ok here are some screens i like. I'm gonna take em apart anyway and make my own mold though. what you think:

    http://www.amazon.com/Lilliput-Touch.../dp/B000KDZHTG

    http://www.amazon.com/Lilliput-869gl.../ref=pd_cp_e_1

    http://www.short-circuit.com/product/VM80L.html

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by MatneyX View Post
    It's Dave, or Matney (which is my last name)... common mistake, though, which I completely understand, so no harm, no foul.



    You'll get different opinions on this all over this board, and any other that talk about car audio. Dollar-to-watt (or ohm... I'm not sure), upgrade your primary battery, do the Big Three upgrade, upgrade your alternator, add a second high-end battery, and THEN add a cap. In that order (though the Big Three could be done first, I'm sure.) But a cap will help keep the power supplied to your equipment steady by reducing the load from your subs on the overall pull from the battery. IMO, I'd rather install one and NEVER need it, than not install one, have my subs hit too hard and FUBAR my PS.
    thanks Dave. helpful stuff. bout to research which alter, batt n cap to get

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