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Thread: My projected setup

  1. #1
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    My projected setup

    So I'm making a carPC that will not only serve as my car system, but also as a senior project for my major (computer science & embedded systems).

    Here is my list:

    Motherboard & CPU:
    Asus E35M1-I deluxe AMD Zacate E-350 AMD Hudson M1 mini ITX (dual core 1.6 ghz with 6 USB)

    Memory & Storage:
    TeamElite 2 x 2GB DDR3 SDRAM (1066)
    OCZ Agility Series OCZSSD2-1AGT60G 60GB Solid State Drive

    Enclosure:
    VoomPC-2 universal mini ITX enclosure

    Power:
    M2-ATX power supply with an SPDTNC relay with a momentary switch to act as a reset button.

    Display(s):
    Lilliput 669GL-70NP/C/T touch screen
    picoLCD 256 x 4 graphic USB display to display ID3 tags & cabin/outdoor temps

    Software:
    RideRunner front end on windows 7


    Any suggestions or comments would be very helpful! Thank you!

  2. #2
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    looks pretty good to me. the only thing i question is why the requirement of the relay? i just used a small momentary switch that works fine for this.. i kinda think that the realy is over complicating the reset operation..

  3. #3
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    Well I wasn't sure how to wire a button to initiate a reset, is there a hookup on the power supply? My thought was to send a pulse to a normally closed relay connected to the power supply so it quickly disconnects and makes it shutdown, but I'll look into more.

  4. #4
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    looks pretty good to me. the only thing i question is why the requirement of the relay? i just used a small momentary switch that works fine for this.. i kinda think that the realy is over complicating the reset operation..
    I agree about the relay. Chris at mo-co-so sells a pushbutton switch with a 16 foot cable especially for that purpose.

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  5. #5
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    Thanks a lot!

  6. #6
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    The automotive power supply does not connect to the reset switch. You just need a standard reset switch.

  7. #7
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    what case are you going with?

  8. #8
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    no GPS receiver?

  9. #9
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JermTheElf View Post
    Well I wasn't sure how to wire a button to initiate a reset, is there a hookup on the power supply? My thought was to send a pulse to a normally closed relay connected to the power supply so it quickly disconnects and makes it shutdown, but I'll look into more.
    quoted only to separate the responses a little-- kegobeer is mostly right on the 'reset' button functionality. i just wanted to expand on the idea..

    there are really 2 ideas here:

    1. a reset switch:
    a reset switch would be directly connected to the pc for cases where the pc were to freeze, and everything needed to be reset-- there is no connection on the dc-dc for this. connecting a 'reset', or momentary switch to the dc-dc psu will only temporarily remove power from the psu-- initiating it's shutdown proceedure, but just once you let off the switch, power will return to the pc..

    2. a switch that connects to the dc-dc psu to to correctly shutdown the pc.

    this is a completely different idea, as this would require a standard switch, not a momentary switch like the reset option.


    further explanation:

    all dc-dc psu's have 3 connections:
    +12v: this is connected to a correctly sized, preferably-custom-run cable that is always powered on.

    ground: this is connected to a similarly sized wire, and connected to either the car battery, or to a good spit on the vehicle chassis.

    ACC: this is the wire that a switched +12v signal gets connected to-- anytime +12v is applied to this terminal, the psu will turn on. anytime this wire goes to 0v, the psu will initate it's shutdown proceedure, or will stay off.


    in my car, i have 4 switches--mostly because i want complete control of my carpc.

    switch 1-- standard NO(normally open) switch-- the switched +12v signal for the psu runs through this switch--for the pc to turn on, and stay on, this switch must be on.
    switch 2-- standard NO(normally open) switch-- this switch gets constant power, and is connected to switch 1-- so i can leave the car off, but still use the pc if switch 1&2 are on.

    switch 3-- momentary switch-- this is connected directly the motherboard power switch header-- i spliced 2 power wire cables together-- the other part of the splice goes to the dc-dc psu, so the psu can turn the pc on/off as well.

    the bonus to having the power switch spliced is if the pc freezes at a point during post (my RAM sometimes gets unslotted), and i need the pc to cut the power without yanking the fuse under the hood, i just hold the switch for 10-15 sec..

    switch 4-- momentary switch-- this is connected to the reset pins on my motherboard, so i can reset the pc if needed.

    hopefully this gives you a little better idea of what you need for switch requirements. i know for sure that i have pics of the 2 momentary switches on the underside of my dvd drive in my build log. i didn't mention it here, but i ran a cat5 up to the dash, and used all 4 pairs-- 2 pairs for the momentary switches, and the other 2 pairs for a pair of red and green status led's that were mounted in the front bezel of the dvd drive-- also visible in my build log..

  10. #10
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    I like the way you think, mine is looking quite similar at this stage, bit more planning to do.

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