if you only want to see what is behind the car while reversing, and do not want to record the footage, then a better option is to purchase a screen like one of the lilliput screens from the mp3car store that have a 'reverse input wire'. then you just connect that wire to the reverse lights, and connect the camera to one of the RCA inputs. then when you shift the car into reverse, the camera will show on the screen.
if you want the camera to record to the pc while driving, then there is a couple of concerns-- first, atom boards don't do well with cpu-intensive programs, so depending on the quality of the video adapter, it might work, or it might slow the pc down to a crawl.. second, a 60gb drive with 1 camera is roughly good for a month or so depending on the image resolution, frame rate, and image compression.. but then there is also the issue of recording to the same drive as the OS-- it can be made to work, but after 3years of security camera experience, i have seen plenty of odd errors because of it(causes some systems to go into a reboot loop, others to not boot, or the recording files can become corrupted), so a dedicated recording drive is heavily recommended if that is a route your serious about.
edit: also, if your using ssd, i think it is a bad idea to use a ssd for camera recordings because of the constant write cycles-- this is where a standard platter drive could have better life..
I'm thinking I'll take the 60gb ssd out of my desktop and chuck windows 8 onto it (and use this as an excuse to upgrade the desktop to a 120)
this appears to be one:Originally Posted by beattme
it's been so long since my install, i've forgotten all the parts, but i used a slot load drive, coupled to a ide adapter, coupled to a ide-usb converter-lots of parts, but it works fine for the 6-8 times i've used it..
honestly, if you have the space in the trunk or glove box, those are better options.. my pc is installed under my passenger seat, and the days i need to take the seat out to re-do hardware make me regret it-- it's guaranteed to be at least a 1/2 hour project no matter what needs to be done because of the labor involved to remove 4 seat bolts, and take the seat out without damaging any interior panels..Originally Posted by beattme
no idea..Originally Posted by beattme
correct. if you have a sub, then you might be better off looking at aftermarket amps--typically, most turn to using 'motorcycle amps' on ebay-- they are quite cheap, small, and reportedly as good or a little better then a factory amp-- though i wouldn't recommend them for any serious aftermarket audio systems--i don't believe they will have enough power..Originally Posted by beattme