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Thread: 2007 Mustang Install (first car pc install)

  1. #1
    Constant Bitrate Hessian's Avatar
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    2007 Mustang Install (first car pc install)

    This will be my first attempt at installing a car pc. I've got the computer build down, but I have a few questions.

    Here is my computer harware:

    VIA EPIA-CN13000G 1.3GHz VIA C7
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16813181022R

    Western Digital Scorpio WD1200VE 120GB 5400 RPM 8MB Cache ATA-6 Notebook Hard Drive
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822136007

    Kingston ValueRAM 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 533
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820144151

    Questions:

    What would be the best DC/DC power supply to power the computer and the Liliput screen. Do I power the screen from the power supply?

    I will need an amp to drive the stock speakers I'm looking at the Alpine PDX-4.100 with speaker upgrades to follow later. I plan to add Infinity Kappa 682.7cf 6x8 and Kicker 04SSMB8 8" subs. Will quality speakers make a difference or should I just go with something cheaper?. Anyone know how to connect to the stock subs of the shaker 500.

    When I upgrade the speakers can I power the front 6x8 and sub with one channel and crossover or will I need something different?

    Thanks!!

  2. #2
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    Please see the FAQ link in the navbar above. There is a FAQ in there specifically to answer your questions about the PSU.

    Regarding speakers, yes, of course quality speakers will make a difference. Unlike computers, you really do get what you pay for in Car Audio.
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  3. #3
    Constant Bitrate Hessian's Avatar
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    A few more questions...

    Thanks RedGT. I read the FAQs and have been doing more research.

    I rip my mp3's at 128, so thats what I was wondering about with the speaker quality. I would like to implement 5.1 for DVDs, so the better speakers would help there.

    About the 8 inch subs in the front doors. There are stock amps for each sub, that would probably be removed. When I replace them and the subs would it be better to power with a mono amp or can I use the 4 channel amp in some configuration? Like to just have the one amp if possible.

    As far as a power supply, I'm going with the OPUS 120 DCX3.120. I think the wiring would go something like this:

    4 guage power to a distribution block.

    Power from the block to the amp and power supply.
    Power from the power supply to the motherboard
    Ignition switch to the power supply
    Power from the power supply to the screen (not sure how this part works yet)
    Screen comes on when it gets power?
    Remote on from power supply to the amp

    Thanks a ton for the help. I'll keep reading.

    I got my PC hardware in, but newegg sent me the wrong memory. Good thing I have a stick or two around until the replacement gets here. Fabrication of the screen is almost complete.

  4. #4
    Constant Bitrate Hessian's Avatar
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    Mustang Part 3

    Fabrication for the faceplate which will hold the screen is complete.
    I'll post some pictures after I get it painted. Using SEM spray.

    i'm developing a custom software interface that looks like the Shaker 500 and uses a Phidget Encoder to change volume and select tracks, etc. Looking into getting ODBII info from my SCT Tuner. Any help here?

    Still have questions on my audio set up.

    Amp:Alpine PDX-4.100
    Front: Infinity Kappa 682.7cf 6x8
    Front Door Subs: Kicker 04SSMB8 8" subs
    Rear: Infinity Kappa 682.7cf 6x8

    Question: Can I somehow power the front subs with the 4 channel?
    Amp is 4x100w RMS.
    Would stepping up to 4x150w RMS work? Looking for a lightweight solution.

    Thanks

  5. #5
    Constant Bitrate Hessian's Avatar
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    Hey wniemcow. Good to see another new guy with the same platform. What hardware are you using?

    The Kicker subs I would be using are flush-mount depth 2-5/16". Using the stock subs would be fine for me if I could figure out how to get them connected to my system. To fill out the bass I'd add some 12s in a box that I could remove while at the track. There is some discussion about the subs and speakers in this thread:

    http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...hlight=Mustang

    The Alpine amp (at 6 lbs) I'm getting is 4x100, so that would handle the rear and fronts. There is a 4x150 version and I was wondering if one channel could handle 6x8 and subs.

    The HU is going away. Just patching into the AUX would be easy though. The faceplace I fabricated looks fairly stock as this was one of my goals. The sowftware interface I'm creating will look just like the Shaker 500 (I'll post some screenshots later). Building the computer and writing software are easy for me, its the car electronics and audio that I'm playing catch-up on.

    Putting the screen in the center console is a novel idea, but not one I was planning on. I'd like to see how that would look. I am planning on running USB and network into the center box.

    SCT says that they do not have any information, API, example program etc that I can use to get ODBII info from the SCT. Bummer, I might see if I can look at the files in the LiveLink software to get any insight on this. LiveLink seems to have a few bugs in it. It would be nice to be able to write your own software to use the SCT.

    Here is the faceplate. I've not painted it yet. I'm looking for a paint shop around here that carries SEM so I don't have to order it.

    Attached Images Attached Images  

  6. #6
    Constant Bitrate Hessian's Avatar
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    I bought a new faceplate ($60) and integrated the screen housing into it using some epoxy and plastic. I should probably start a worklog thread.

    I plan on the 12s to have their own amp as part of the box so it can all come out for the track. I don't plan on having the rear subs installed initially. Just something for down the road. The stock bass is fine for now.

    I've taken apart the console and removed the HU to check the fit, but not the doors.

    Would running a wire from the amp to the stock 8" amps work? Seems like an amplified signal would be bad to send to the amps? Of course "seems" is not always the case.

    Nice diagram, I plan to make one once I know what I'm doing.

  7. #7
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    Replacement Faceplate

    I ordered the faceplate from my local Ford dealer. Just make sure they know it's the part that the HU goes in.

    Using the stock wiring is a good idea. I think I'm going to place the amp in the trunk, but I'm not sure yet.

    Also will be moving the batt to the trunk during the install, while I got it apart.

    I'll post some screens of the software interface tonight.

  8. #8
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    Interface Screen Shot

    Here is what my interface looks like. I also have interface screens for selecting playlists/albums/etc and a screen for ODB info. The app uses WMP so it can show visualizations and play video.


  9. #9
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    I too would like more info on your software interface. What did you use to build it? Any chance of posting code?

  10. #10
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    Interface

    Thanks wniemcow, I'll post some more SS after I tweek the other screens.

    I was going to spray the faceplate tonight but it rained all day and it's humid outside.

    The app is built in C#. I'm not done with it yet so it's not ready for prime time.

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