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Thread: My CarPC Diagram

  1. #1
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    Question My CarPC Diagram

    Hi All,

    I have been lurking these forums for a while but only recently joined. I have just purchased a VW Golf GTI 2L and it currently uses stock ICE, I want to change this and thought it would be the perfect time for me to start my CarPC Project.

    I will start by listing the features I would like from my CarPC in priority order:
    • Sat Nav
    • MP3 Player
    • Movie Player
    • Bluetooth interaction with my mobile
    • Radio


    Next are my current components:
    • via Epia M5000 MoBo
    • 384MB RAM
    • Voom-PC2 Case
    • M2-ATX
    • 7" LinITX LCD
    • USB PS2 Keyboard/pad


    Now onto my CarPC diagram still in the making:


    I have some questions,
    1. Where should I connect the monitor to for power?
    2. Is there anything I need between the monitor and power? Should I use 8 guage wire for this?
    3. Is it ok to leave a connector on the power distribution block unconnected incase I need it for future expansion or should I connect something to it?
    4. Also I have seen some users using relays I dont fully understand their purpose yet would it be advised for me to implement one?
    5. Are my cabling guages and fuse adequate on your best guess?


    Thanks for reading I am new to all this and everything I have learned so far has been from these forums which I am thankful for Any comments and suggestions on the above?

    Also I realise the MoBo processor is quite slow 533Mhz and I will probably have to upgrade this but I would like to run with the free components first and then upgrade once its working.

  2. #2
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    1. A regulated 12v source. I'd pull it from the PC's PSU for simplicity.
    2. A regulator. 8awg is overkill, bu it will work
    3. What kind of "connector"?
    4. What would the purpose of the relay be?
    5. You might consider 2awg for power to the distro block, just to be safe.

    Also. The ignition controlled line does not need to come from the ignition switch. IT needs to come from a switched 12v source that turns on/off with the ignition.
    Tap into your amplifier turn-on lead for simplicity.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  3. #3
    Newbie Bildonia's Avatar
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    3. I wouldnt leave it unconnected in the event where something may get in there and short something out. Could you cover it with something like electrical tape??

  4. #4
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    Thanks Darque,

    1. Since posting i have been doing some further reading and decided plugging the monitor into the PSU is the best option for me.

    2. I realise 8awg is overkill but seeing as I will be buying a lot of this I thought I could use the leftover but thinking about it further it would be a lot neater to have a thinner cable and I will probablly using the cigarette lighter adaptor and chopping the end off and then buying some additional 18awg which is what my molex connectors currently use.

    3. I was going to buy a 1x4awg to 4x8awg distrubtion block but only needed to use 3 of the 8awg so was wondering if its safe to just leave the additional 8 awg alone until I need it? Though from your suggestion from no. 5 I will now look into getting a 1x2awg to 4x4awg or something similar (eg 2 4awg to 8awg, 1x2awg to 4awg).

    4. I also read into relays a little more since and I don't think I need one the way i am wiring up.

    5. Thanks I will look into getting 2awg and a distro block to support it to be safe

    Thanks for your last suggestion with the amplifier I did read a worklog from another user with a similar car to mine:
    2005 Volkswagen GTI
    from what I can see from halfway down the page he wired it up to his fuse panel near the driver and then using a fuse tap and was also thinking about doing this way. I will try and find a user with pics who has done it to the amp turn on for an example to make sure I am on the right track.

    Thanks again Darque your help is appreciated and I will get this working soon and make sure I take lots of pics along the way to start my own worklog


    Bildonia: I am sure i could cover it with some elec tape thanks for your advice

  5. #5
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    Question My CarPC Diagram v3

    Hi again,

    Just back to show my new diagram (hopefully its clearer) and ask a few more newbie questions



    1. Whats the recommended gauge for ignition wire size? 18awg? or should I match the power cable size for the device?
    2. Whats the best way to ground my 2 amps in the back and the PC?
    3. How would you recommend grounding my monitor in the front?
    4. I have been looking at ordering wiring and assecories and finding hard to find a fuse holder block with 2 awg connectors can I use a block with 0awg and whats the best way to connect these (eg ring terminals)?
    5. Would you recommend having my distribution block in the boot (as in my diagram) or under the hood near the fuse and then running 3 smaller wires to the boot?
    6. The distribution block has 4x4awg outs is it ok to connect a 10awg to one of these?
    7. I plan to buy some of the parts in intervals as I get the money so at first i want to run with 1 amplifier connected to the speakers and the PC is it ok to not use 2 of the outs on the dist block and should i maybe fuse the wires to the amp and the PC to be safe?
    8. I am going to purchase a multimeter for this project and i want to test wether the Golf Mk4 rear cigarette lighter is using ignition or on always, could I just get confirmation that this is ok to hook my ignition wire to if it goes off when i turn off the car?


    Any further comments or suggestions?

    My CarPC is working fully now with software installed just trying to figure out the wiring, then order it and start my worklog then maybe think about some fabrication for the touchscreen LCD.

    Thanks for your time

  6. #6
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    any updates on this build

  7. #7
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    Yeah so far I have installed all the cabling into the car, put the monitor into the dash which was a lot easier than I thought as I didn't need to use any filler but I might end up using a little at a later stage to finish it off.

    I am now experiencing some issues with my M2-ATX but I am still investigating what the problem is, it works fine in my house using another PSU method but doesn't work in my car.

  8. #8
    Newbie TripleThreat's Avatar
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    Check to make sure you are getting 12 volts on the red wire and white wire and that your black wire is grounded properly. Are you using the lighter plug for your 12 volt ignition source or power?

  9. #9
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    I will recheck all the cables and voltage when I get a chance. I ran a cable direct from the battery for power and ignition source was from the stereo ISO. I have checked the ignition cable many times and it all seems to work even with my on-off-on switch which I am happy about.

    The Power cable has a fuse holder and 120a fuse in close to the battery and then in the boot theres a fused power distrobution block which for the moment I am running a 40a in but I will be changing that to a 20a.

  10. #10
    Low Bitrate Coldfusionpower's Avatar
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    1. do u really need a 120amp fuse at the battery .. the m2atx didnt use that much voltage ..

    2. separate the audio and powerline ..
    First 3 Version DONE ...but sold ..with the car .. now .. building another one for the new car .

    Coming Soon : CarPC 2.0 .. 40%

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