I finally got around to take some pictures of the installation, so I thought I'd share what I have thus far.
This is how I decided to power everything: The battery and fuse box is actually located in the trunk of the 2010 Dodge Challenger, which made powering the entire system much easier than having to run cables from the front of the vehicle. I have a power cable and a ground cable connected to separate distribution blocks, mounted on the side of my subwoofer enclosure. These power things like the amp and the Directed HD Radio. However, I decided to use a Cooper Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Fuse Tap, plugged into my fuse panel, in order to power the computer; this seems to work pretty well, and I felt it was a very clean way to fuse the power going to the computer.
This is what you see when you open the trunk. I was pretty adamant that the installation be as clean and factory looking as possible, and I am pretty happy with how it turned out. The trunk of the Challenger is pretty large, so I ended up being able to keep a good bit of the trunk room by mounting everything onto the subwoofer enclosure. Doing this also keeps cable runs shorter and neater as well. I actually want to pick up some split loom for the ground and power cable you see in the foreground, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
This next image just shows my lack of impressive mounting of an external D-Link Wi-Fi antenna as well as a BU-353 GPS antenna. I just shoved them both under the back window and routed the cables directly into the trunk. They both get great reception right there, and they don't really move around while driving, so I'm fine with that for now. Adding the external D-Link antenna dramatically increased my Wi-Fi reception, so that was a welcome addition.
Here you can see the double-din installation of a Lilliput EBY-701. I'm not sure if you can see in the photo too well, but it's not actually flush with the dash, I decided to recess it just a little bit. I thought this might help with monitor glare, but I don't really know it it made a difference. I like the way it looks like that, however, and I don't really have a plan to move it. The image you see on the monitor is a visualization from the XBMC software.
This next shot just shows the fact that the backup camera I installed automatically comes on when I put the car into reverse. The field of vision is pretty limited on the Challenger, so I really love this feature. The camera itself is a BOYO VTL420, and it works great, even in low light. Since the Lilliput has a camera wire built into it, I just hooked the Pac-Audio C2R-CHY4 green reverse camera wire directly to the Lilliput green reverse wire and it worked perfectly.
This last picture shows my favorite feature of my new CarPC. Thanks to MitchJS and his awesome cable and software for the Directed DMHD-1000, I was able to write a Python program that extends XBMC and allows me to fully control the HD Radio right from the XBMC interface. It took me a lot of nights to get the code where I wanted it, but I couldn't be happier with the setup now. I can change channels and seek and get Artist and Song information right inside of the XBMC program.
I still have a number of things I'd like to eventually incorporate into my setup, especially steering wheel controls. I have most everything I need to try and connect to the CAN-BUS network in order to get my steering wheel controls functioning again, but I haven't run the wire yet to attempt that. Right now I've been using an Adesso wireless keyboard in the car, which works fine, but it's probably not the safest of interfaces either.
See.... it all worked out. Looks like you got a Lilliput EBY701 with a custom bezel. Still looks factory and is plug and play. So now you can easily go back to factory if you have to. Congrats!
that's one hell of a rudimentary diagram haha.
Originally Posted by Challenged
What challenger did you go with? Plan on any performance mods?
Ha, thanks. I actually decided on a loaded SE. I have a small bit of regret with not going with the R/T (which I think is the sweet spot in the series), but I'm not completely disappointed with my choice either (I haven't had a new car in ages after all). I did test drive all three models and really enjoyed both the R/T and the SRT, so if I can get some more performance out of the SE, I'd probably be a happy camper.
Really, the first thing I would like to do to the car itself, is some visual mods, like adding some 20" rims and maybe one of the stripe packages. Once I get some extra money, however, I would like to put in a better air intake and a cat-back exhaust, which should drop the 0-60 time a bit and give the car a better sound.
very cool. Just bought a new pontiac g8gt myself. And coming from an 11 year old grand prix; i can totally relate to owning a new car!
Originally Posted by Challenged
I test drove an R/T, Camaro, G37x, 335xi and they were all great cars. The only complaint I had with the R/T was that it seemed a little "big"; and i understand they were doing the classic justice so I don't blame them; just not what I was looking for. In the end, the G8 won b/c of pontiac's fire sale giving me 7.5k off sticker. Couldn't pass it up.
Very cool, I really like the G8, they are great looking cars. I've never had the pleasure of driving one, but they look like they'd be a blast.
The last posts bring back so many memories. I have always been a Dodge fan. Even though their cars didn't always look great, something just drew me to their cars. My first car was a 1989 Dodge Shadow turbo. Although everyone hated the car, I actually loved it. It was built strong as h3ll too. I hit the back of a Dodge Intrepid going 80 mph and the Intrepid had no damage, and my cars bumper got pushed in. I simply took a crowbar to it and it went right back into place. Tragically, when I was going to have the car repainted I was going 5mph and some one brake checked me and I hit the car. The car in front was OK, but for some reason the whole front end of my car was totaled. i was confused for almost 20 minutes because I said to myself, I hit a car going 80 and no damage, now I hit a car going 5 and the car falls apart. I guess it wasn't meant to be. I then bought a 2005 Ford Focus, brand spanking new, 5 miles on it. The car was OK, but I bought it for MPG and affordable. Once I got my puppies though, they hated that car. i got tired of cleaning $h!+ and throw up so I bought a JEEP. I guess the ride was better because the issues with my dogs went away. That cars engine imploded so I went back to what I liked and bought my Durango. When I bought it, they said it was the 5.2L engine, but it turned out to be the 4.7L, which I didn't mind in the end. My puppies love this car to death because it has more room and they can stick their heads out the windows.
I am thinking of getting the racing strips too, because I really love the Durango SP360 look.
I wanted a 2 tone, but I always get drawn back to the SP360 version. Only difference is, I would keep the truck silver and the strips would be charcoal black.
Great job with the Challenger!
Your setup looks great!
I have and '09 Challenger R/T that I plan on doing this to. I'd like to know how you have amplified and control your audio and that screen is really clean. Did you have to do anything special? What double DIN adapter did you use? I'll have a lot of questions... :)
The monitor I bought was the EBY701 that's available from the mp3car store: http://store.mp3car.com/Preassembled..._p/mon-067.htm I then used a double-din bracket to install the monitor into the dash, item #: Metra 95-6511 I think I could have flush mounted it, but I recessed the monitor just a bit into the dash and the bracket seemed to line up pretty well when I oriented it like that. I also thought it might help reduce monitor glare if I recessed it just a bit into the dash.
I am using a single 4-channel amplifier to power both the subwoofer and the 6 factory Boston Acoustics speakers. My car came with the factory CAN-Bus controlled amplifier as well, so I bought a PAC-Audio C2R-CHY4 harness, which turns the factory amp on and off via CAN-Bus control messages. I really didn't need the amp I have in the trunk to power the 6 speakers in the front of the car (since they are powered by the factory amp), but I hooked them through it, just because it made wiring cleaner (in my mind).
I originally bought two amps to mount in the trunk, one to power the subwoofer and the other to connect to the front speakers, but my subwoofer amp died shortly after installing it (the amp was new, but very cheap, so I wasn't terribly surprised). After that happened, I just routed all the audio through the single amp in the trunk, since it was a four channel amp. There are separate gains on the channels, so I just turned the gain on the channel going to the front speakers all the way down, since they are already powered by the factory amp.
Hope that helps...