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Thread: 2010 Dodge Challenger install

  1. #51
    Low Bitrate Challenged's Avatar
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    I had already ordered and installed the PAC-Audio C2R-CHY4 that I used to control my factory amp, so it just seemed a little easier to me to use their steering wheel control unit as well...no reason that using RT's software and a CAN-USB adapter wouldn't have worked just as well though.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCasey View Post
    Hey congrats on the car, i want one

    So I've chatted with rtgree01 on canhack.org and his software i think is the way u want to go if u wanna keep ur stock sound system. It turns on the amp and controls all audio functions with a rider runner plugin
    I've been searching the forums everywhere and I can't find a link to the CAN Bus plugin. I'm just getting ready to install a CarPC in my Challenger and looking to get steering wheel controls working via the CAN BUS.

    Tom

  3. #53
    Low Bitrate Challenged's Avatar
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    I looked a bit on the canhack.org site, but I didn't see it in the software section either. Maybe just send him a PM and ask him about it. I'd be curious to know as well, however, as I'd like to eventually plug into my CAN-BUS so be sure to share what you find out.

  4. #54
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    Heh, I registered on Canhack web site last year, the account needs to be activated by an admin, still waiting. I even PM'd the admin on LXForums to activate it, never heard back.

    Tom

    Quote Originally Posted by Challenged View Post
    I looked a bit on the canhack.org site, but I didn't see it in the software section either. Maybe just send him a PM and ask him about it. I'd be curious to know as well, however, as I'd like to eventually plug into my CAN-BUS so be sure to share what you find out.

  5. #55
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    Did you have any volume issues with your build? I'm running my setup from CarPC to PAC CHY4 into the factory amp but even at full volume on the PC the audio is only moderately loud.

    Tom

  6. #56
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    I haven't really had too many issues with volume, but I did notice a pretty big difference in volume when trying a USB sound card, instead of the internal sound.

    What I settled on is using the internal sound, but I have the audio coming out of my PC and into an electronic crossover and then into a small 4 channel amp in my trunk. So I'm sort of pre-amping the audio before it gets to the CHY4.

  7. #57
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    Hmm, no issues with sending amplified signal to the CHY4? I thought it is supposed to only receive line-level input.

    Tom


    Quote Originally Posted by Challenged View Post
    I haven't really had too many issues with volume, but I did notice a pretty big difference in volume when trying a USB sound card, instead of the internal sound.

    What I settled on is using the internal sound, but I have the audio coming out of my PC and into an electronic crossover and then into a small 4 channel amp in my trunk. So I'm sort of pre-amping the audio before it gets to the CHY4.

  8. #58
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    Not sure, it does seem to work fine for me though. I have two channels of the amp going to my sub and two channels going to the rear inputs on the CHY4. I do have the output going to the in-cabin speakers turned all the way down I think...mainly just used the amp because it made wiring to the front really easy for me.

  9. #59
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    I ended up buying a small 10V pre-amp with adjustable gain ( http://www.cacheaudio.com/cloc+d.html ) for $70. It's only just over 3"x2" and absolutely solved the issue. The factory amp is not too bad, on to CAN-USB

    Cheers,

    Tom

    Quote Originally Posted by Challenged View Post
    Not sure, it does seem to work fine for me though. I have two channels of the amp going to my sub and two channels going to the rear inputs on the CHY4. I do have the output going to the in-cabin speakers turned all the way down I think...mainly just used the amp because it made wiring to the front really easy for me.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Challenged View Post
    For anyone interested, I was finally able to get my steering wheel controls working today after a few false starts. What finally ended up working for me was purchasing a a Pac-Audio SWI-PS unit to plug directly into the Pac-Audio C2R-CHY4.

    I called Pac-Audio before I purchased any of the steering wheel control units they offer, because I wanted to make sure that I bought one that output variable resistance. Once I received the SWI-PS, I just plugged one end of the unit into the plug that comes right off of the C2R-CHY4 and I then cut off the mini stereo plug that comes off of the other side of the SWI-PS unit. I hooked the red wire to the white wire on the CarPC Joycon device and I hooked the copper wire to the black wire on the CarPC Joycon device.

    I couldn't be happier that I finally got this going, as it was probably the last thing that I want to do for now with my CarPC setup. Anyhow, I just wanted to share that information here for anyone who may be looking to connect up their steering wheel controls in a similar vehicle.
    Ah, I'm really glad I found this post! I'm about to try the exact same thing, and already discovered a mistake in my original order - PAC C2R-CHY4 + SWI-CAN... Realized that the SWI-CAN wasn't right and took it off the order in time.

    So for now I've just got the C2R-CHY4 on the way (by the way this is for a 2010 Jeep Patriot).

    You mentioned that "after a few false starts" - by any chance did you examine the outputs in the C2R itself? I mean the part that connects to the SWI-PS adapter you're using - perhaps those might work? Or are the signals not in a usable state at that point?

    g.

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