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Thread: 2010 Dodge Challenger install

  1. #1
    Low Bitrate Challenged's Avatar
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    2010 Dodge Challenger install

    Hello all,
    I have just purchased a new 2010 Dodge Challenger after my nephew begged me to sell my 12 year old 4Runner to him (will get his license in a few days). I'm excited to have a new car and equally excited about installing a CarPC into it; it's something I've always been interested in, but have never attempted. I've been doing some research for a while, but a few things aren't quite clear to me in how they should be handled, and I was hoping for some advice if I post what I have my mind so far.

    I have the factory, 6 speaker Boston Acoustics audio system in the car, along with the REN (double-din, non-navigation head unit). In my mind, there isn't enough room on the dash for both a head unit and a touch screen, so I have decided to completely pull out the factory double-din unit and replace it with the 7" Lilliput EBY701 that I purchased from the mp3car store. Additionally, I purchased a double-din after-market stereo installation bracket (Metra 95-6511 Chrysler/Jeep DDIN 2007 Dash Kit). I have gone back and forth in my mind about completely removing the head unit, but I didn't see any other way to feasibly install a touch screen and retain a factory look. This is unfortunate, because it would have made getting audio from the CarPC much easier.

    Since the Dodge Challenger uses the CANbus system for factory audio, I also purchased a "PAC C2R-CHY4 Radio Replacement Interface for 2004-2009 Chrysler Vehicles". While I haven't received this unit, I'm hoping this will allow me to utilize the factory amplifier (powered on via CANbus) with my car computer.

    One thing I'm unclear on at this time is the best way to interface the PC itself with the PAC C2R-CHY4 unit. The cleanest thing I have come up with so far is to purchase a small amp, such as the Eclipse EA4200 4 channel amplifier to accept RCA inputs from the CarPC and then feed the PAC interface from the amp. If anyone knows of some better way to cleanly take a mini-stereo output and feed it into the raw wires on the PAC C2R-CHY4, I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts.

    The specs on the CarPC:
    Voom-PC2 Enclosure
    ZOTAC IONITX-F-E Intel Atom 330 NVIDIA ION Mini ITX Motherboard/CPU Combo
    G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800
    Western Digital WD5000BEVT 500GB 2.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Notebook Hard Drive
    M2-ATX DC Power Supply
    Probably running Windows 7 for navigation software reasons, but I'm a Linux guy at heart.

    The battery and fuse box on the 2010 Challenger are actually located in the trunk, which means that it should be easy enough to wire the PC and the amps with juice while leaving most everything out of sight and safe in the trunk.

    What am I looking to accomplish with the CarPC:
    Customizable interface (probably the main reason I want a CarPC)
    GPS Navigation
    Music Storage (have a ton of well-organized mp3 files) and I really don't like the Factory MP3 system
    Video (not really something I would use much of, but nice to have I guess)
    Camera system (backing up is difficult in the Challenger, so a camera would be welcome)
    Phone integration
    Internet access

  2. #2
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    like you said, it looks like the audio system is going to be tricky..

    do you know if the audio goes through the can bus network, or is sent to the amp as line level, or speaker level?

    if the amp accepts line level inputs, then you will only need to get it turned on, and just connect the pc directly to it.

    if the amp accepts speaker level inputs, you will need to use a amp-- most of the time, something small, like a motorcycle amp(search ebay) will be more than adequate, and usually cost no more than $50.

    if the amp is taking the signal from the canbus network, i can't help as much... i do not know much about canbus.

  3. #3
    Low Bitrate Challenged's Avatar
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    It's my understanding that the audio all the way until the amp is part of the CAN-bus network. I haven't actually pulled the decking down in the back to take a look at the factory amp, but I guess that's the first thing I should do.

    As you mention, I guess ideally I would just plug the PC directly into the single factory amp and be done, but if adding another small amplifier would do the trick and let me keep the factory wiring, I'm probably fine with that too. That's certainly easier than pulling out all of the wiring and starting from scratch.

    Here's a rudimentary diagram to show my thought process:

  4. #4
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    Well, being that you are adding a sub as well: IMO, I would bypass/remove the factory amp and just use both aftermarket amps, because the factory amp is just going to add more complexity, esp. with the canbus system...

    I can understand attempting to tie into the factory stuff to leave the audio alone, but being that your messing with it anyways...

  5. #5
    Low Bitrate rtgree01's Avatar
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    I've got a 2007 Charger. I'm working on putting in a carpc. I found out that the factory amp takes in line level audio from my 6 disc non nav unit. I have an canusb device and have decoded the can messages needed to turn on the amplifier. I don't know if it is the same for the later years though...

    Ryan

  6. #6
    Low Bitrate Challenged's Avatar
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    I did read up a little bit on some very cool stuff various members here are doing with CAN-bus. I'm definitely looking forward to that aspect of the CarPC ... there's a huge amount to learn about it though.

    Also, according to some further research, the PAC unit I bought should turn the factory amp on when needed via CAN-bus messaging, so I'm hopeful that my diagrammed set-up is going to work. If it doesn't, then I guess I'll head down the path of replacing the factory amp altogether, as mentioned by soundman98.

  7. #7
    Low Bitrate BCasey's Avatar
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    Hey congrats on the car, i want one

    So I've chatted with rtgree01 on canhack.org and his software i think is the way u want to go if u wanna keep ur stock sound system. It turns on the amp and controls all audio functions with a rider runner plugin

    Ive used it with a laptop and it works great.

    Find a wire diagram for the radio wire harness and u will need to run line level audio to the rear left and right positive and negative wires on the harness (I used an RCA to headphone jack and cut the RCA connecters and soldered the rest to the wire harness), and then splice a db9 (serial) plug to the 2 canbus wires, i cant remember what pins on the db9 plug they go too off the top of my head. Then buy a canusb (www.canusb.com) and itll plug into the db9 plug and rtgree01's software can use it to control ur amp, along with anything on the can bus that the radio is on. I didnt solder anything to my cars wire harness but I got a plug for it soldered that and then plugged that into the car harness.

    I'm actually working on changing the harness tho to a Pac audio C2R-CHYNA, its got wires for the audio and canbus, but the great part about this is it reads canbus messages for the "Radio on" message and then powers an ACC line which u can use with ur power supply, it also has an extra plug on the canbus wires for steering wheel controls and thats where im gonna splice in my db9 plug.

    Oh and the software would need a change to set the speed of the can bus to 125 kbaud ( 05-07 lx's use 86.6 kbaud, 08-up lx's / lc's use 125 kbaud )

    check out my work log for the work ive done so far, its not complete yet, im just building the case to house everything in right now and its for a chrysler 300 but its the same platform ( 300s, magnums, chargers are LX's, challengers are LC's exactly the same but smaller wheel base ).

    I look forward to seeing ur progress cause im lookin to buy a challenger and move the system into it eventually ( lol i havent even put it in my 300 and im already looking to put it in a new car)

    EDIT:

    looked on metras web site for products for ur car and I found the wire harness pin out
    page 2 of this pdf
    http://documents.victorytechnologies...duct/15444.pdf

    so

    Rear Left Speaker + is pin 8 green wire
    Rear Left Speaker - is pin 9 green / black wire
    Rear Right Speaker + is pin 10 purple wire
    Rear Right Speaker - is pin 11 purple / black wire

    Canbus + is pin 13 pink wire
    Canbus - is pin 2 blue / pink wire
    New Project in the Works

    Previous Worklog here

  8. #8
    Low Bitrate Challenged's Avatar
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    Wow, what great info BC..thank you so much; I envision that is going to be infinitely helpful to me in the near future. I can't wait for the rest of my parts to come in so I can really start getting my hands dirty with this build. I feel like a kid before Christmas...

  9. #9
    Low Bitrate BCasey's Avatar
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    np alot of the info is just from my build but since the platforms for our cars is basically the same it transfers over nicely.
    New Project in the Works

    Previous Worklog here

  10. #10
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    OHHHHHHHH, i cant wait to see this install. I am a huge Dodge fan, so seeing how this turns out will be a pleasure.
    Nirwana Project, the Android/Win 7 hybrid system!

    1X Ainol Novo Flame Tab
    4X MK808b
    3x Perixx Touchpads
    3x 7 inch Screens
    1X 7 inch motorized Screen
    1x Win 7 PC

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