Thread: Newbie just starting to build carputer

The cheapest is to use a spare (or one borrowed from another computer) ATX power supply to power the motherboard. Same goes for CD-ROM. A spare drive or one borrowed from another computer. You could also install from a USB thumb drive. There are guides online for that. I've installed Linux and Windows from USB thumb drives. Linux was easy, Windows XP was a pain to prepare the thumb drive. I hear Vista and Win 7 are easier to install from thumb drives.

Yet another option is to take the hard drive out of the car PC, and put it into a desktop (or laptop) and install from there, then put the drive back into the car PC.

I was thinking of purchasing a hard drive docking station for my desktop http://microcenter.com/single_produc...uct_id=0314844. Could I use my desktop to install software before putting the carputer together.

to install the OS and everything from another computer, i have found that it is easier and cheaper to just put the new drive in the computer, unplug the 'real' drive for that computer, so that all you have left is the new drive, and setup everything that way-- after that, it would be like installing it normally, the only difference is that you would unplug the drive after everything is done, and put it on the other computer...


i have looked at those drive bays before, but don't really see a benefit to them unless you are constantly using bare drives on a system(if you work in IT, i can see how this would have certain advantages--like updating/imaging hard drives to send to other companies to install...).

if you really want a usb solution, i would recommend a external hard drive enclosure for the specific drive size you are planning on using--it will be about the same cost, and this way, it is dual purpose-- you can use it as just a external drive, or use it to update the the other computers hard drive(i have about 3-4 external cases that i use this way).

Originally Posted by soundman98

to install the OS and everything from another computer, i have found that it is easier and cheaper to just put the new drive in the computer, unplug the 'real' drive for that computer, so that all you have left is the new drive, and setup everything that way-- after that, it would be like installing it normally, the only difference is that you would unplug the drive after everything is done, and put it on the other computer...

Be aware, that you are likely to run into registry and driver issues. Do a search on the forums and you'll find a few topics about the difficulties of this method and why it's much easier just to use an ATX power supply from another computer to power your carpc on the bench for installs (See the Adv. FAQ for more information on powering your carpc from the bench)

I used an atx ac-dc power supply, an old cd drive, and an old crt monitor...looked like a mess when I was installing windows, but it really was very simple...def the best option...then you don't need to worry about all the hardware changes...only a few...once windows is installed, you can pretty easily install everything else using a flash drive from a desktop to the carpc...

I always keep a wired mouse, and a wired keyboard in my backseat, cause you never know when you will need to modify some file...comes in great handy...

I'm going in the same direction myself: Black Box-N with an Epia P820-20L crammed into the dash of my 1999 Saab 95. I believe that slow and steady beats haste almost every time. I would finish acquiring the core components and set-up a development environment on a laptop or other spare box you might have lying around.

From here you can configure your OS and front-end software and eventually all your other operational hardware complete with drivers...more importantly you get the opportunity to benchmark your build and tweak the hell out of it. I'm planning on a CF/SSD set-up. So I'm hoping to get a fast loading and stable image built for back-ups and what else further tweaking. Update the thread or start a worklog so we can see your progress.

just wanted to add that when i tried to install XP MCE i put the drive in another comp. and when i put it back into car pc it gave me stupid piracy warnings. then when i did wipe the drive and install it again with the drive in the carpc it did it again. it took lots of "on hold" time with microsoft to fix the issue.

apparently when i registered my os online windows made a file that is like a snap-shot of your computer hardware then compares that snap-shot to your hardware every time you start the pc and if too many things are different it freaks out.

i didnt even end up using MCE cause its too bloated...

Yeah, I'm going to get in the, "Just use a normal desktop power supply to power the PC while you install everything in the comfort of your home. Then when you're done switch out to the M3 and install it in the car."

That is going to end up being the easiest, most simple way to do it.

Well my Black Box arrived a few days ago and I've spent more time reading these forums than I'd like to admit. I was pretty dead set on using the Epia P820 when I learned that Via just launched the Nano L3050. I'm trying to get more info on it because it's running@ 2GHz and can use DDR 3, which would make Centrafuse a little happier. Considering that the P820 was launched in January of this year and won't be shipping until the middle of May. We might not see it until christmas.

A couple of things have been bugging me about the P820 though, The most nagging being trying to figure out what PSU to use with it. It only has a two-pin DC in plug so that ruled out the Pico PSU's. I gave in and called the Tech Sales Rep. at Logicsupply.com and they didn't have much more to say than other than "it uses a regulated 12V PSU." Oh well.

Question for the OP (and anyone else). Whats the best way to determine the size necessary for an embedded OS installation. I read some pretty interesting numbers on this and I'm still working through the FAQ. Can some one point me to a relevant thread?