Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 31

Thread: Connecting PC to Car ISO

  1. #11
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    on the border of northern IL/IN
    Posts
    5,820
    \/\/\/\/\/\/carefull: rant and a half ahead...\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

    i still think there are some very important details missing-- you said pre-2007 mini cooper, yet the models date back to 2002, leaving room for wiring harness/electronics revisions, also, you didn't specify the trim level or if you have the harmon kardon system-- all of which can have a completly different harness.

    remember, car manufacturers can, and do change little things like wiring harnesses at will-- it could be that the sporty version of your car had to route a wire 3" more to the left, causing them to change the radio harness, because another supplier was cheaper for that...

    i did a little searching, and could not find any radio harnesses for the mini cooper--2007, so you might not be able to easily swap the radio for a aftermarket unit(what that harness would be for). also, the link in your response to justchat is actually listed as being for the bmw 5 series(so i doubt it would work for a mini).

    while mini is a division of bmw, it is still seen as a separate company when looking at add-ons, and parts(kind of like chevy, and buick...)

    for the wiring-- the reason that i can't recommend 'just hooking it up to the cigarette lighter' is because auto makers do not EVER use wire larger than what they need-- i have seen cars in the past that the 10 amp fuse for the cig lighter also powers dome lights and dash clock displays-- bringing the overall rating of the cig lighter down--so if your accessory takes a lot of power, it is could be very close to the absolute limit of that circuit-- and this means that you could be constantly replacing fuses, and eventually getting the idea to use a larger fuse, and then consequently melting the wire, which could lead to car fires...

    by running your own wire(or having someone else run a new wire ), you can know exactly what the capabilities of that wire are, and you know exactly what is getting power from that line, removing most of the variables of using the OE wires, and eliminating headaches down the road.

    and, i feel it is time to cue 2k1toasters artwork:


    now, onto what you asked me:
    you will need to run a fused power wire from the battery, or have a local car audio shop run it for you, and then you can ground it at the nearest solid metal point in the car...

  2. #12
    Newbie ploogle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    23
    I left out those because I don't have the car yet; I'm looking to get one. I'm looking more for figuring out what kind of parts I'll need than model-specific ones.

    So what you're saying is that I can't get power from the Car-to-Stereo Head "ISO" cable? Alright, how much do you think it would be to take the car to someone who knows what they're doing (maybe Car Toys?) and pay them to do it?
    Programmer, Game Designer, Dirt Collector

  3. #13
    Maximum Bitrate boelle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Odense, Denmark
    Posts
    685
    just to spray some more confusion on the thread, in europe we pretty much use ISO plugs for most stereo's, the good thin about that is that ISO is a company that has made a lot of standards, so if our car's wiring does not end with iso plugs (that will connect directly to the head unit) then we just go for a car specific adaptor and the install can be made in like 5 min. if the car's wiring do end in iso plugs the install is done in even less time... provided that the frame for the head unit is the same.... changing the frame would add another 5 min to the install

    now how do these iso plugs look like:

    http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/7...aupunkttv1.jpg

    top row C is a more modern style but do the same job as row A and B.... it do however cary signals like speed etc... it's not widely used here yet, another advantage is the smaller size

    a car specific adapter for the ford falco could look like this, the white conector goes to the cars wiring:

    http://www.autoaudio.com.au/images/I...Ford-Falco.jpg

    now regarding feeding power the car's wiring.... simple rule is that never draw more power than the ORG. fuse is rated at... that is you must take a note of everything you connect and sum the currents so that you are 100% you do not exceed the fuse rating...

    if you are going to replace the head unit with an in-dash screen etc you are going to mate the connector/wires from the screen to the adaptor plug... should be a simple job once you have the first image i showed above and compare that to the install instructions for the screen

    if there are enough spare current for a car pc you can connect that too and route the wires down to the car pc.... BUT remember to solder the connections AND use heat shrink tube so that there will be no shorts... and better use 2 tubes on top of each other to get a double layer...

    if you are going to add an amp mt best advice is to connect that directly to the battery... one very heavy duty wire from the battery and a fuse just after the first 20 cm's of wire ( 2 small bear cans hight ) be sure to use tire zips so that the wire is not loose and the same for the fuse... route that wire down to the amp... for the ground wire on the amp use the same thickness and make it as short as possible... a bolt for the seatbelt is what i use for the ground wire... just be sure that the wire is short and that it can not move arround to much... the same goes for the amps.. they need to be bolted or screwed down securly

    thats pretty much how to do it.... make sure you have plenty of time... and make sure you have everything you need before you install... better use a whole weekend and get the job done well than you have to rush it and redo it later

    normal i take a big dinner table and lay out the way i figure it has to be in the car... i even connect and do most of the wiring here but i leave one end of the wires without terminals....

    in the example with screen pc and amp i would do the complete wiring for the screen and just leave enough wire down to the pc to make sure that it's not too short (i can always cut the excess wire).... the wiring for the amp is the same deal... put terminals and fuse on and leave the amp end without terminal and route it...

    on install day its pretty much just a matter of move the bits from the table to the car... when doing the stuff on the table you have much time to go through the install inside yourself and make sure everything is right

    well better stop before i repeat myself
    Blessed are the "cracked" for it is they who let in the light.

  4. #14
    Newbie ploogle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    23
    Crap, I'll have to do some soldering?

    Is everybody very sure that nothing I'm thinking of exists, with one end plugging into the car's ISO and the other two plugging into 12V power and headphone jack?
    Programmer, Game Designer, Dirt Collector

  5. #15
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Elsewhere
    Posts
    13,948
    Quote Originally Posted by ploogle View Post
    Crap, I'll have to do some soldering?

    Is everybody very sure that nothing I'm thinking of exists, with one end plugging into the car's ISO and the other two plugging into 12V power and headphone jack?
    Yes, we're sure.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  6. #16
    Newbie ploogle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    23
    Awww...

    I'll look into having someone run the fused wire. How hard would it be to do myself, is there a good guide for it, and how expensive would it be to just get someone else to do it?
    Programmer, Game Designer, Dirt Collector

  7. #17
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Elsewhere
    Posts
    13,948
    It's actually very easy.
    The hardest part is usually squeezing it through an existing rubber grommet in the firewall, since you have to jockey for space with the rest of the vehicle's wiring.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

  8. #18
    Newbie ploogle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    23
    How does the wire itself connect to the battery? And how does it actually plug into the 12V port on my computer? Any danger of frying the ~$300 device?
    Programmer, Game Designer, Dirt Collector

  9. #19
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    on the border of northern IL/IN
    Posts
    5,820
    there is always a danger of it...

    i use ring terminals to connect to the battery, and oyu would probably need some sort of connector to plug it into the computer

  10. #20
    Newbie ploogle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    there is always a danger of it...

    i use ring terminals to connect to the battery, and oyu would probably need some sort of connector to plug it into the computer
    "some sort of connector" doesn't help me a bit. I believe I know what a ring terminal looks like, but how exactly do I hook it up to my 12V port?
    Programmer, Game Designer, Dirt Collector

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. FAQ: Why not Home PC speakers for the car?
    By RedGTiVR6 in forum The FAQ Emporium
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 03-08-2010, 08:44 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •