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Thread: My Holden/Chevy Caprice 05 new project, some questions needs to be answered :D

  1. #1
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    My Holden/Chevy Caprice 05 new project, some questions needs to be answered :D

    Hello all,
    First of all I'm not sure if this is the best forum/section that I should post my thread in XD
    Secondly: I'm going to start a CarPC project in my own Chevy Caprice 2005 (In Australia it is Holden Caprice).
    I have searched and read alot of threads before writing this post. I have a big unclear picture for the project that needs to be clear.

    This is a pic for my car interior:



    I would like to split the project in several stages or steps, The biggest one is the first one
    The final result of the project is to get a CarPC with the following features:
    - 7" Touch screen with Rear Camera port & IR receiver (7" of size can be increased or decreased depending on the available space)
    - A-GPS Navigation system
    - USB 2.0 ports in ( under the screen, In the box between driver & passenger, gloves box, under seat..) will be used for Charging phones, connect other devices like flash memory, iPod , etc..
    -3.5 mm audio jack (For external MIC & Headphone)
    -AUX-In port to connect iPods, Music Players.
    -Outside temperature sensor (Yes, my car Unfortunately haven't!)
    -220v outlet
    -FM/AM radio shark receiver
    -DVD\CD room (in gloves box)
    -Bluetooth 2.1 + EDR for in-screen calling feature
    -Rear Cam (shows when I put the gear to reverse mode)
    -Front Cam (Started manually)
    - SSD hard drive for faster system loading speed & better performance in not-smooth streets
    -Start & Hibernate the computer depending in (Starter key mode , ACC or On )
    -Start Engine remotely to warm it without needing to wait in the car.
    -Navigation tool *
    - Tire sensors
    -OBD stuff to show up RPM, Speed meter, Oil temp in the screen


    This is my car interior describing the place for each part:


    Green: 3.5mm jacks, USB ports , DVD room (If not possible I'll put it in the gloves box)
    Blue: Here would be me navigation tool:
    1.
    Griffin Powermate Volume Knob 1100-PWRMTS
    or 2. 3Dconnexion SpaceNavigator
    Red: The Touch Screen area, I think I will need this part to fit the screen:

    Is this can be sold ready to install without needing to additional fabrication work?
    Check this out it may helps :

    Double Din VY-VZ Fascia Grey

    ----------------
    This is my double din stereo/cd player dimensions


    This tow pic for a similar projects:




    (Source: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/newb...lp-n00b-2.html)



    After searching for the parts and reading about it, I have made this list of wanted parts for my project:

    1- For the GPS receiver BU-353 Weather-proof GPS Receiver or Rooftop GPS/Cellular/PCS/WiFi antenna GPS 2400 (I prefer the first one)

    2- For power supply M2-ATX 160W Intelligent DC-DC PSU (for it's amazing features )

    3- For DVD drive Teac DV-W28SS -RM3 Slim Slot load DVDR/RW/+RDL/RAM Multi Drive NOT SURE IF IT COMPATIBLE WITH THE MOTHER-BOARD
    I can use USB DVD drive to fix compatibility issues

    4 - USB Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) 1 Tire Sensor Only

    5- For radio receiver Griffin RadioShark 2 AM/FM Radio Recorder

    6- For the Touch Screen I not sure actually but I need a Screen which support Rear Camera Input & IR receiver & READY for DIY project (NO FABRICATION NEEDED)
    I found these but I'm not sure if it the right choice for me:
    -Double DIN Lilliput EBY701-NP/C/T 7" Touch Screen VGA
    -
    Preassembled Black Double Din LCD Frame with 7" Lilliput EBY701

    7- Mother board : I picked ZOTAC IONITX-L-E Atom N330 1.6GHz Dual-Core Mini ITX Intel Motherboard
    Its a good one, without power supply (to be able to use M2-ATX 160W Intelligent DC-DC PSU)
    Its Mini-ITX (6.7in x 6.7in - 170mm x 170mm)

    8- Amplifier (I have no idea about it!)
    9- Rear/Front camera (nothing specific)
    10- Mic USB-SA Andrea External USB Soundcard / SuperBeam Microphone Bundle


    Another question I have, Can I easily fit the ZOTAC Mini-ITX & The touch screen instead of my double din stereo?(I hope so) If this possible what PARTS do I need to fit them all? If not possible to do that should I put the motherboard in a small case under the driver seat?

    How to connect the computer to the car original speakers? Is the answer i should to have an amplifier? Which amp is better for my setup?

    Please help me in this project to complete it beautifully,What are your suggestions and comments on the PARTS that I had chose. Are there any other things you advise me to add it to this project?
    Thanks for everything

  2. #2
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    Any help .. please

  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate Wayne613's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bepo View Post
    Any help .. please
    I'll answer what I can, and isn't totally subjective in my opinion.

    You will have to do some kind of fab work for the LCD screen to get it to look like it truly rolled out of the factory with it in place. Unless you can find a drop in unit with close to the same dimensions as what's available your usually humped in that regard. I lucked out with my own as the previously fabricated aluminum double-din drop in unit made for the Suburu's works for my car.

    Yes, you will need amplification. There are a few options, you can go with the mini-units (some of which are sold in the mp3 store itself) to get it back to the stock stereo's wattage level, or just opt to use the usual aftermarket amps to get it to that level or better with in most instances better sound quality, remembering this is a factory setup, so the speakers are probably <50watt a piece. If you want to get it near or as close as you can to what it was before you will need to research a bit of the din-unit your replacing. Some cars have split-duty amplification. As in the sub has it's own amp, and should only have x amount of watts for the pre-amp, the 4 speakers in the rear and front panels use the factory unit itself, and is x watts. The usual case is just the unit giving the amplification to everything unless you have subs and/or component speakers in place from the factory.

    You will of course want to use the factory wiring harness to tap much of what is necessary, including the speakers, my suggestion would be to spend the $18 it will probably be and get one for your make and model at Crutchfield.com.

    EDIT: sorry, forgot your in/are in Aussie-ville. Eh, hell if I know, crutchfield might still carry the vehicle harnesses for your export car anyhow, and if it's the same thing then you can just get the domestic name linked one. *shrug* Sure there are many other alternatives to find a factory harness adapter for your model though. I just tend to like recommending them as their documentation of what is what, how and such is second to none. And they'll actually go an extra mile to help if you've got questions or are stuck.

    As for the mounting of the PC itself. This is really dependent upon what amount of grief your willing to go through to keep the underbelly of your seat PC-free. In some instances you will have enough depth to mount a full mini-itx case inside the backside of the double-din unit. Many others simply use a metal/aluminum plate to mount everything on and then mount that inside the double-din. For most, the less aggravating solution would be to run the longer cables necessary and just put it under the seat. Which also saves you from having to rip the dash apart any-time you want to check/add/remove something.
    2008 Ford Mustang GT/CS CARPC(99%)
    Software: Ride/Road-Runner, Digital FX skin 5.x, iGuidance 2011, GPSgate on Win7 64bit

  4. #4
    Raw Wave
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    Why 220V?

    Australia is officially 230V AC, though many are still on 240VAC. (I'm not sure if Wassies still get up to 256VAC.)

    But local inverters should look after that....

  5. #5
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    to add to what wayne613 said:

    amps: while there are many car-audio specific amps that are relatively large, many people here have used "motorcycle amps" off ebay (between $25-50 US) and report that they are as good, sometimes a little better then the factory sound..

    but there are really 2 types of car radios-- some output a low level signal to a factory amp, where it gets amped, and sent to the speakers.

    in this case, a aftermarket amp would not be required. the easiest way to determine that is to locate a aftermarket radio harness-- if it has rca audio connections, you have this type of radio. granted, you can still bypass the factory amp, and add your own, sometimes it might be required because the factory amp doesn't have enough boost to get the sound level needed.


    the other type would be a radio that outputs a high level signal, and will send it either directly to the speakers, or to a amp for a premium audio system.

    this would need a aftermarket amp, and it might be worth considering ditching the factory amp, unless you have a system with a factory subwoofer like wayne613 mentioned. a aftermarket radio harness for this type would typically have bare wires, and no rca connections.


    dash kit:
    i am unable to confirm it, but it appears that the link for the dash kit is the kit needed to install the double din lcd that you also linked to.

    this is great because it would require zero fabrication, or modification to the dash, and should just bolt together. just verify that the dash kit is designed for a double din opening-- which should be 7" wide x 4" tall.


    pc location:
    i mounted my pc under my passenger seat, it was a pretty tight fit-- i had to hammer the bottom of the seat up so it doesn't interfere with the heat sink fan when the seat is slid forward.(my car is a 2 door)

    i prefer this location because i could lay out my hardware in a nice way, and it is very well ventilated--the pc stays at the temp of the inside of the car...


    the dash location can be a very tough location-- there is no guarantee that you will have enough space, as each car can have different depths in the dash area.

    also, you will need to take heat/cooling into account-- which can also be tough, as you usually can't just attach it to the cars hvac system.

    if you choose to go the in-dash route, i would say to expect to keep your dash apart during the entire build process so you can take measurements and test fit components.

    in my case, my dash was apart for around 3 months..(and then i scrapped the in-dash approach, put everything under the seat, and was done with it..)

    there have been a couple of in-dash builds, i would highly recommend reading those if you choose to go that route..

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne613 View Post
    I'll answer what I can, and isn't totally subjective in my opinion.

    You will have to do some kind of fab work for the LCD screen to get it to look like it truly rolled out of the factory with it in place. Unless you can find a drop in unit with close to the same dimensions as what's available your usually humped in that regard. I lucked out with my own as the previously fabricated aluminum double-din drop in unit made for the Suburu's works for my car.


    Yes, you will need amplification. There are a few options, you can go with the mini-units (some of which are sold in the mp3 store itself) to get it back to the stock stereo's wattage level, or just opt to use the usual aftermarket amps to get it to that level or better with in most instances better sound quality, remembering this is a factory setup, so the speakers are probably <50watt a piece. If you want to get it near or as close as you can to what it was before you will need to research a bit of the din-unit your replacing. Some cars have split-duty amplification. As in the sub has it's own amp, and should only have x amount of watts for the pre-amp, the 4 speakers in the rear and front panels use the factory unit itself, and is x watts. The usual case is just the unit giving the amplification to everything unless you have subs and/or component speakers in place from the factory.

    I understand that amp used to link computer to speakers? I prefer to delay speakers issue to the last step I can go to a shop & replace the whole sound system

    You will of course want to use the factory wiring harness to tap much of what is necessary, including the speakers, my suggestion would be to spend the $18 it will probably be and get one for your make and model at Crutchfield.com.


    EDIT: sorry, forgot your in/are in Aussie-ville. Eh, hell if I know, crutchfield might still carry the vehicle harnesses for your export car anyhow, and if it's the same thing then you can just get the domestic name linked one. *shrug* Sure there are many other alternatives to find a factory harness adapter for your model though. I just tend to like recommending them as their documentation of what is what, how and such is second to none. And they'll actually go an extra mile to help if you've got questions or are stuck.

    I'm sorry but I haven't understand the point, I'm not in Australia! I am living in Meddle East nowadays. Chevey Caprice is a popular car here, It's country of manufacture is Australia not US.

    As for the mounting of the PC itself. This is really dependent upon what amount of grief your willing to go through to keep the underbelly of your seat PC-free. In some instances you will have enough depth to mount a full mini-itx case inside the backside of the double-din unit. Many others simply use a metal/aluminum plate to mount everything on and then mount that inside the double-din. For most, the less aggravating solution would be to run the longer cables necessary and just put it under the seat. Which also saves you from having to rip the dash apart any-time you want to check/add/remove something.
    There no enough space under the seats so the options available is : Inside Dbl-Din dash OR at the back in car trunk, The problem is in this country in summer the outside temp reaches 50 C! So is the car trunk a good option?

    Thanks for helping

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldSpark View Post
    Why 220V?

    Australia is officially 230V AC, though many are still on 240VAC. (I'm not sure if Wassies still get up to 256VAC.)

    But local inverters should look after that....
    I'm not in Australia My country follows Europe standards

  8. #8
    Raw Wave
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    Ah - by Holden I assumed Australia.

    But we changed to 230V (from 240) to match the European Standard which is also 230V. But I know Euro is often still 220V just as we are still often 240V.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    to add to what wayne613 said:

    amps: while there are many car-audio specific amps that are relatively large, many people here have used "motorcycle amps" off ebay (between $25-50 US) and report that they are as good, sometimes a little better then the factory sound..

    but there are really 2 types of car radios-- some output a low level signal to a factory amp, where it gets amped, and sent to the speakers.

    in this case, a aftermarket amp would not be required. the easiest way to determine that is to locate a aftermarket radio harness-- if it has rca audio connections, you have this type of radio. granted, you can still bypass the factory amp, and add your own, sometimes it might be required because the factory amp doesn't have enough boost to get the sound level needed.


    the other type would be a radio that outputs a high level signal, and will send it either directly to the speakers, or to a amp for a premium audio system.

    this would need a aftermarket amp, and it might be worth considering ditching the factory amp, unless you have a system with a factory subwoofer like wayne613 mentioned. a aftermarket radio harness for this type would typically have bare wires, and no rca connections.

    This is a really value information about amp. The amp image had been cleared
    Thanks


    dash kit:
    i am unable to confirm it, but it appears that the link for the dash kit is the kit needed to install the double din lcd that you also linked to.

    this is great because it would require zero fabrication, or modification to the dash, and should just bolt together. just verify that the dash kit is designed for a double din opening-- which should be 7" wide x 4" tall.

    Aha so great, NO FAB needed ^^

    pc location:
    i mounted my pc under my passenger seat, it was a pretty tight fit-- i had to hammer the bottom of the seat up so it doesn't interfere with the heat sink fan when the seat is slid forward.(my car is a 2 door)

    i prefer this location because i could lay out my hardware in a nice way, and it is very well ventilated--the pc stays at the temp of the inside of the car...


    the dash location can be a very tough location-- there is no guarantee that you will have enough space, as each car can have different depths in the dash area.

    also, you will need to take heat/cooling into account-- which can also be tough, as you usually can't just attach it to the cars hvac system.

    I was trying to locate a free space under my low seats but unfortunately there no enough space.
    All-in-dash option seems to be hard to perform, So I'm thinking to fit the PC in the back trunk to have a free space in dash to locate external hard drives & dvd-room also I will be comfort to fit a bigger pc & a bigger amp without worrying about space.
    The problem is the heat in summer, the air temp reaches 49 C & in winter it could be down like 4 C or even 2 C!!
    So 1: What would I need to cool the PC ?
    2: If I want to fit a touch screen without fabrication is this two items enough?
    http://store.mp3car.com/Preassembled..._p/mon-067.htm & http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/ind...&productId=206
    or I have miss something ?


    if you choose to go the in-dash route, i would say to expect to keep your dash apart during the entire build process so you can take measurements and test fit components.

    in my case, my dash was apart for around 3 months..(and then i scrapped the in-dash approach, put everything under the seat, and was done with it..)

    there have been a couple of in-dash builds, i would highly recommend reading those if you choose to go that route..

  10. #10
    Raw Wave
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    Cool. Or hot. Now that we or I know where you are living....


    But I reckon boots are out - unless they too are insulated and air-conditioned.
    Boots get way hotter than cabins when operating. (Open windows or air-cons usually drop the internal temp of 80C and above.)

    I doubt that devices will have such high operating temperatures, though storage temperatures (unpowered!!) can range from 85C to 125C.

    Besides, what is the electronics & temperature rule - ever 10C or 15C increase halves it's life....?
    So a 20C or 30C increase in the boot (compared to cabin) means one quarter of the life expectancy....

    But ducted cabin cooling for the device(s)....

    PS - boot = trunk. Cabin = passenger compartment.

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