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Thread: Need some guidance on New Carputer Project

  1. #1
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    Need some guidance on New Carputer Project

    Ok guys, I'm a pretty tech savvy guy but I'm looking at doing this right the first time so I'm looking for some veteran carputer guys input.

    Here is my line up:

    Intel DH57JG Mini-ITX Motherboard
    i3 550 CPU
    M4-ATX 250W Intelligent DC-DC PSU
    500GB sata hdd from old computer (will eventually switch out with SSD)
    centrafuse
    Preassembled Black Double Din LCD Frame with 7" Lilliput 669GL-70NP/C/T-HB-RV


    Now my concerns are getting this hooked up in the car. I plan on upgrading my alternator to comp for the additional demand on the battery but wondering what kind of inline fuse I should run to the M4 PSU? I want this install to be as safe as can be

    Thanks guys

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by bakerunc View Post
    Now my concerns are getting this hooked up in the car. I plan on upgrading my alternator to comp for the additional demand on the battery but wondering what kind of inline fuse I should run to the M4 PSU? I want this install to be as safe as can be
    If you apply ohm's law (250 watts / 12 volts) you will get around 20.83333 Amps. This is only when the PSU is pumping 250 watts though. I would say to get a 20A 250V Fast-Blow to be safe.

  3. #3
    Neither darque nor pervert DarquePervert's Avatar
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    I wouldn't use a 20A fuse. I'd go a bit larger, maybe 25A or 30A.
    You want the fuse to protect the WIRE. There is a fuse on the M4 to protect the equipment.

    If you use a 20A fuse, and that PSU draws enough to put out it's max, you're going to pop the fuse. And it will happen over and over again.

    And before you spend the coin to upgrade your alternator, you should upgrade your grounds first. A new alternator will be useless if your grounds aren't sufficient to carry the load from the additional electronics.

    If you still need the beefier alternator with the better grounding, then you're already ahead of the curve.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarquePervert View Post
    I wouldn't use a 20A fuse. I'd go a bit larger, maybe 25A or 30A.
    You want the fuse to protect the WIRE. There is a fuse on the M4 to protect the equipment.

    If you use a 20A fuse, and that PSU draws enough to put out it's max, you're going to pop the fuse. And it will happen over and over again.

    And before you spend the coin to upgrade your alternator, you should upgrade your grounds first. A new alternator will be useless if your grounds aren't sufficient to carry the load from the additional electronics.

    If you still need the beefier alternator with the better grounding, then you're already ahead of the curve.

    When you say upgrade the grounds, what exactly would you use?

  5. #5
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bakerunc View Post
    When you say upgrade the grounds, what exactly would you use?

    search for the "big three upgrade" . any car enthusiast site should detail this to some extent..


    i don't even know if a carpc is enough justification for a higher output alternator..

    i am currently using a defective 80amp factory alternator(wavers around 13v instead of the common 14.4v) i use a 220watt dsatx, a alpine mrp-f300(4x75rms) and sony "600 watt"(300x2 bridged) amps. and even at loud volumes my car barely drops voltage-- even at night with my foglights, hid's and defroster running...

    then there is also the type of HO alt. you get-- many require higher rpm's to get the higher output-- like 3,000rpm, instead of 1,000rpm.. so unless you are going to be keeping your car above the speced rpm for the alt. it will not make the power that you were expecting, and the extra cost is wasted..


    also, i am seeing a lot more i3 setups-- i just don't know if they are worth the extra cost for most uses-- it doesn't hurt, but in most cases, a atom board will fit your needs just as good with less power draw..

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