If this is posted in the wrong spot please redirect this. I wasn't completely sure which section to choose since my questions span several topics. I did look the the available FAQ and search but it's possible I missed something covered feel free to point me in the right direction. Most of my questions are centered around the electrical / car functionally side rather than the computer side (in which I have far for experience) and I will probably have some follow up ones, as I canít seem to remember to write them down when they pop into my head.
I have been looking into this for a while and decided to finally jump headfirst into the project.
I have started ordering some of the major pieces, and still working on the layout and wiring and need some input.
Before I get started here is a little information:
- Intel DH77DF Mini-ITX with Intel i3-3220T 2.8 Ghz
- Intel 6235 Dual Band WiFi / Bluetooth 4.0
- Kingston V300 120GB SATA III SSD
- Corsair 16gb DDR3 1600 RAM
- M3-ATX PSU
- 7" Samsung HDMI Touch Screen
- Morex 5677 case
- 2011 Ford Fusion SEL 3.0L V6
- Stock audio (afaik) with SYNC
- No navigation
Iím leaning towards a two amp + sub setup. I donít plan on replacing the stock speakers (they sound great I was shocked when I found out it was stock), but Iím not completely against it. Iím not as clear on the wattage vs ohm as I would like to be, but I understand the difference between RMS and max output.
Currently I am looking at purchasing the following:
- Rockford Fosgate R400-4D 400 Watt Class-D 4-Channel Amplifier
- Rockford Fosgate PBR500X1 Punch 500 Watt Mono Boosted Rail Amplifier
- Rockford Fosgate Prime R1L-2X10 Double R1 10-Inch Preloaded Enclosure
The amp is rated 500w @ 1 ohm and the subs are wired for 2 ohms.. so the amp would be pushing 250w to the sub? Is that correct or am I missing something?
I canít find much (read: any) information on the RMS rating of the stock fusion speakers (I will check my owners manual after I get out of work), is the 4 channel amp (RMS of 75w each) going to be something I need to be concerned about overpowering (I assume) the stock speakers?
I currently have SYNC with a subscription to SiriusXM. My goal is to replace the SYNC functions with the carputer and I would like to maintain SiriusXM, radio, and the steering wheel controls. If possible, I would like to keep the car chime messages (door open, seatbelt unlocked, system messages).
There are several different PAC controllers for the headunit and controls but they seem to be primarily for to connecting an aftermarket HU vs carputing. I stumbled across the Joycon interface in my searching which would definitely meet my needs and programming it is not an issue.
I assume that the XM tuner is inside the HU currently installed, so I would need to purchase a USB XM module (the same for the radio) and use the antennas that are already there.
Powered USB - The touchscreen has 4 USB outputs (2 board controls, the AUX / CF reader and the touch screen) and I would like to have at least 1 USB input in the center console (currently has one connected to SYNC).
Taking into account the possible need for more USB lines, it seems like this is a good alternative to running 5+ USB lines (assuming the devices support a hub), have other people done this with their setups?
I would prefer to do the wiring myself, but donít mind taking it somewhere to have it done, but it seems pretty straightforward once you have all the necessary parts, and is far more hands on. I just want to make sure I have the correct setup going into the project, rather than finding out halfway through (or after I damage something) that I am missing a key component.
One of the videos on mp3car shows running separate power lines from the battery terminal to power the amp+sub and the computer, however I have also seen other setups with a single power line and distribution block in the back.
Is there a ďbetterĒ setup? Is it simply a matter of personal preference?
As far as wire gauge sizes, most places recommend at least an 8 gauge power + ground line. Is this a sufficient size or does the computer, in conjunction with the amp+sub, draw enough power to need a bigger line?
Iíve read several conflicting things on fuse placements, what is the best (subjective I know - safest.) route to go? Besides an inline fuse near the battery, is it better to have inline fuses running to the amp sub and computer (after the distribution block), a fused distribution block, or both? Will the computer setup influence the size of the inline fuse that will be needed
Input/Suggestions/Information would be helpful. I donít want to rush into anything without the due diligence - thanks!