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Thread: Planning my first Carpc - will appreciate any suggestions and help

  1. #31
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    I went with with the Stinger, 1F cap, 150A alternator, and your basic 150A Solenoid isolation, and used 4AWG to the amps and 12AWG to the carpc, if only to make sure I have it overkilled and covered:



  2. #32
    Raw Wave
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    Interesting that both of you (Project07MACry & rray) use Stingers. I presume IGN controlled - hence paralleled when cranking, and hence the hefty interconnect. If ACC controlled, paralleling during cranking doesn't apply. And maybe rray's is a UIBI - ie, if that smaller relay is a buffer/isolator from the charge light circuit.

    Of course both of those are total overkill for pkaush if we are still only talking about a 23W set up! And without "automatic" switching (isolation) does not solve pkaush's main concern of being left with a flattery {my jargon for flat battery}.

    For pkaush maybe a good ol' Yuasa 4AH or 7AH and 30A relay with ATS style or mini ATS self resetting circuit breakers will do.
    Older readers know my views re Optima tho not for the same reasons as redheadedrod. (I haven't bothered with red's Optima issues since they have been solved. Acid leaks occur when lead terminals are cut or damaged, but for Optima's would only occur if mounted upside down (maybe; eventually - if they didn't explode first..), used outside of specs, or from a faulty batch.)
    But irrespective, other good AGMs are available that are cheaper (Deka, Kinetik). (I guess Gates - now Hawker - are very expensive? I saw them mentioned last night. They - like Yuasa - were the beez neez 20 years ago.)


    I like Project07MACry's Amplifier wiring Thumb rule tho I'd paraphrase to "because of the lower resistance, the more load it can handle" (or rather, pass).
    It's simply Ohm's Law: V=IR; the Voltage drop across something equals its Resistance (Ohms) times the current (I; Amps) thru it.
    Hence the lower that wiring voltage drop, the higher the voltage at the load end. And since Power P = VI, the more power delivered.

    But another consideration is the final voltage at the load end. If the wiring drop is too big, the load may not operate - eg, if the converter's output 5V is drooped to 4.5V.
    Otherwise, normal resistive or linear loads like traditional lighting (not HID nor LED headlights etc) and HUs and low power amplifiers have no issue. Higher wiring drop means LESS current and hence less demand on batteries and alternators. [ I don't know why many insist that bad wiring (high resistance) puts more "strain" on an alternator or battery when the opposite is true. Higher resistance - LESS current. It's as if they think the alternator (or power source) has to push 55W to a 55W bulb or load. It doesn't, it merely maintains its output voltage.... ]

    Big amplifiers like HIDs and PCs etc are different. They resemble "constant power" loads (aka non-linear). A 100W non-linear load will take 10A at 12V. If that 12V drops to 10V due to the wiring voltage drop, then the load takes 12A - ie, an extra 2A. The power is the same, ie 12V x 10A = 10V x 12A = 120VA = 120W. (Let's assume VA = Watts in our case. Let's not get too complex....)

    The latter can be catastrophic - lower voltage means higher current; higher current means bigger voltage drop hence higher current... more heat in the wire, etc. But fuses look after that.
    And dc-dc converters should look after input voltage drops and variations. (Except for many big amplifiers for whatever reason, but that's rambled elsewhere.)


    PS - Project07MACry - ever tried to educate a turkey before resorting to its carving? Alas we have prawns for Christmas so we peel rather than carve (and no, they are not from District 9).
    Last edited by OldSpark; 11-26-2013 at 05:08 PM. Reason: PS...

  3. #33
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    Thanks Project07Macry and Oldspark for the electronics lesson :-) and yeah that was helpful.

    Rray your battery setup looks very professional - where do you have the spare tire?

    After reading all the comments, I will need an extra battery in my setup. Just have to be careful which one to buy.

    I have received dell venue 8 pro and the device looks amazing, it has started to become my primary device - which means if I want to use it in car, I need to buy a new one :-). But seriously, this is a great computing device and I have Dell XPS 10 tablet, Dell XPS 12 tablet cum laptop, iPad and another laptop, but still like this one. Performance is really good.

    For carpc use, it has its pros and cons, the capacitive touch screen is great which I might not be able to get for any price in the PC setup. The downside is the storage limitation. In coming days before or after my vacation plan I will try to do some test runs with some navigation software to see how it performs. I really wanted to try gmpc, but its not available any more. If there are any pointers on which one to test, please share.

    piercedmickey - it has 64 bit processor, so you could run 64 bit windows on it, but ram is on 2 GB, which might not be sufficient. It also has USB hdmi to have a second display and extensible USB 3.0 adapter.

    All in all it need some testing before finalizing which way to go.

    Thanks to all of you for you suggestions and comments.

  4. #34
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    haha! No spare tire! That black thing on the left side of the photo is a compressor and tire sealant, double bagged in case the sealant leaks. My tires are 2 different sized 21" PZero's, so a spare for rotation is not possible, I just have to drive (or hitchike) far enough to be in range of Onstar.

  5. #35
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    Happy New Year everyone!! I am back, but stuck in work :-(

    I am going to start ordering some of the stuff online and start building it. lets see how it goes. I will keep posting.

    Let me know how this sounds : For the very first attempt, I am planning to reuse the stock stereo as amp and remove it from dash and put it in glove box (if it fits). I am hoping, all the wiring which it is using will come till glove box (I am not sure if I need to put a hole in box, I have Camry 2009). Put the Windows 8.1 - 8 inch - tablet in the dash and connect its audio to aux in of stereo. Set up two powered usb hub, one in the front and one in the trunk. Connect gps and odb2 connector.

    Once I get this working then go and buy an amp and power it up from the battery. Let me know if you have any suggestions.

  6. #36
    Constant Bitrate Project07MACry's Avatar
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    @pkaush:
    If the stock stereo you’re talking about is that huge hefty 1 pc box between the vents and the HVAC controls, then I’m afraid it will not fit in the glove compartment. It has nothing to do with the wiring; it has to do with that big ole’ box itself: for the size it takes up, it doesn’t do much!!
    If you are adamant about using both the tablet and the stock stereo, start off by buying a mount that will do one of three things: hoist the tablet from the floor, mount it from the dash, or stick out in front of the stereo. This way, 90% of the car stays stock. As far as recharging the tablet, your unit will hopefully have a DC cable that can plug in the car, or else you’ll be detaching the tablet daily! *lol*
    Also, buy a 3.5mm male to male audio cable, and connect the tablet’s audio out to the AUX in port of the car. Try it out for a month, and see if the setup works out for you. Once you want your setup to be more permanent, let us know.
    All systems are a go...
    Currently in "tweaking" mode.

    The Worklog

  7. #37
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    Oh yeah, it's been a month now... Any progress? I have not done anything with my project because it's been too cold.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  8. #38
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    @rray: Progress??? Well at this point the tablet is back with DELL for some repair. I guess, I broke something in the charging port while building the docking stations for it. I am hoping to get it back this week. Its been dead from 3 weeks - so that counts for the months :-).

    Also, I am keeping few things on hold and watching your project. If you get the venue 8 pro's display to work as the display for the carpc, then that would be the best way to go.

    @Macry: I am not planning to keep the stock stereo, that was just an attempt of getting started before I finalize what amplifier I want to put in. And once I get the new amp it would be easier to replace it. I am not thinking of that any more, I guess, I will collect all the parts and then start. I ordered few cables from dx.com and they are taking forever to ship them.

    I also found some amplifier installation kit on the amazon, so I guess one of that would help for wiring.

    On the side note: Could it be dangerous to have a battery in you car for the kids/infants. I mean battery fumes are not good for little ones. I know these batteries are sealed, but still are there any statistics on that.

    pkaush

  9. #39
    Variable Bitrate camo.b's Avatar
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    There are some sealed battery and then there are sealed ones for use in enclosed areas.just check the specs.if its in the trunk it might not be a issue..but if its going in the passenger compartment i would double check the specs.
    I have found dx.com slow too in tha past

  10. #40
    Raw Wave
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    Quote Originally Posted by pkaush View Post
    Could it be dangerous to have a battery in you car for the kids/infants....
    Nothing is ever safe.

    The question should be 'is it allowable?'. That answer is - in most parts of the world - yes PROVIDED it is an SLA/VRLA/AGM battery. Gel cells might be allowable but IMO should probably be treated as a wet cell. And wet cell yes IF in an approved sealed vented container.

    The above is usually applicable to any battery that is NOT located in the engine bay. (Trunks/boots are treated the same as the cabin.)


    Is it safe?
    Well, AGMs (can) still vent hydrogen (tho usually not acid fumes) and get hot and explode.
    Is that safer than cars that have internal OEM wet batteries in the cabin? (Under the seats etc.)



    FYI - AGMs are not 'sealed'; they have a pressure vent. It's probably best to remember their original name - VRLA batteries - Valve Recombination Lead Acid (or valve Regulated lead acid). They must have a vent to release excess internal pressure. (From memory that's at a few psi.)


    Also BTW, if remounting a dash item into a glovebox, consider its air circulation.

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