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Thread: Planning my first Carpc - will appreciate any suggestions and help

  1. #41
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    Thanks OldSpark - that answers it.

    Next, amplifier - What do I need to calculate while buying amplifier? How much ohms, watts, etc? I think it depends more on speaker - should I open and check speakers in my car?

    I know the best way to figure out is to listen to them, but still, how does these look like -

    1. http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T163SY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1392178859&sr=8-11&keywords=car+amplifier+4+channel

    OR

    2. http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-6500F-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B004YVZ16Y/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1392178859&sr=8-12&keywords=car+amplifier+4+channel

    OR

    3. http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier-GM-D8604/dp/B00E1BRITU/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1392178859&sr=8-15&keywords=car+amplifier+4+channel

    OR

    4. http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R400-4D-Full-Range-4-Channel/dp/B004T0WFVE/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1392178859&sr=8-16&keywords=car+amplifier+4+channel

    Or any other in around $150 - $200

    Please suggest.

    Pkaush

  2. #42
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    Links in my previous post got all messed up - may be because I was trying to do it from Ipad and wasn't able to select the complete text. So here it goes with fixed links:

    Amplifier - What do I need to calculate while buying amplifier? How much ohms, watts, etc? I think it depends more on speaker - should I open and check speakers in my car?

    I know the best way to figure out is to listen to them, but still, how does these look like -

    1. Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier

    OR

    2. Pioneer-GM-6500F-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier

    OR

    3. Pioneer-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier-GM-D8604

    OR

    4. Rockford-Fosgate-R400-4D-Full-Range-4-Channel

    Or any other in around $100 - $200

    After reading the description and review I am starting to like the 3rd in the above list. Please suggest.

    Also any suggestions on the speakers, if we change them too. From the descriptions, I found component speakers would be the best choice for front speakers and may be 2/3 way for the rear speakers.


    Pkaush

  3. #43
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    I would stick with 2 way for the rear and set the crossover point for bass and let the front components handle the highs.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  4. #44
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    rray - I think that what we will do. I read installing components is hard. I need to figure that out. I have separate space on the dash which has the tweeter and crossover in that.

    I have posted on toyotanation to get the more info about the my car speakers and sizes.

  5. #45
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    I tried to search but was not allowed and I did not want to register for that forum, but an advanced search for component speakers, speaker replacement, and tweeter placement should bring up how people are mounting them.

    I know that there are door speaker adapter rings for 6x9" oval and 6.5" round for your car. Some also have a small grille on the left and right side of the dash for tweeter mounting. If you have the tweeter mounting locations, then definetly go for component speakers because they are always the upscale sound choice over coaxial speakers, and come with a crossover box matched to the speakers.

    When the components are right next to each other, you set set the crossover to "On Axis" mode, and when the tweeters are on the dash or pillars, but the woofer is in the door, you switch to "Off Axis" mode. If the tweeters point right at you, you set the high gain to -2db, so the tweets don't blare or are too shrill relative to the woofers. It is actually not hard to install door speakers or dash tweeters. The tweeter will have a pry off grill, and then 2 screws and the tweeter comes out. We should run new speaker wires and this is also easy.

    For the rear deck 6x9 oval speakers, it's usually best just to get coaxials, rather than triaxials, and set the amplifier crossover so the highs are attenuated, using them mostly for bass. The component tweets will have enough for you, and having tweets from the rear usually just make highs shrill again, because they are not time aligned. You will percieve cleaner full sound. And a subwoofer will really fill out the bass, but you can do that later, you might just be satisfied with what you have.

    Things you will need:

    The amp, a 4 channel with alt least 50 watts RMS per channel
    8awg amp wiring kit with inline fuse (inline waterproof fuseholder within a few inches of battery connection).
    Set of component door mount adapter plates: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SAT6...-Brackets.html
    6.5" Component speakers no deeper than 3" mounting depth, with no larger than 1" tweeters, and includes a crossover box.
    50' Roll of generic thick insulation 16awg speaker zip chord wire. Don't have to be oxygen free because we will solder the connections and never worry about vibration or oxidation again.
    Get this bluetooth dongle and connect to the amp's input, then stream audio from your tablet or phone for $40Milennia MIL-BTREC
    pkaush likes this.

  6. #46
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    Awesome - you have already figured it all out. Thanks mate!

    I found few details on the removal and replacing speakers and stereo:
    Radio, Door Panel, Rear Deck & Tweeter removal guide

    And also, some more pics

    And also few videos on Youtube.

    Lets see the things I will need:

    1: The amp, a 4 channel with alt least 50 watts RMS per channel:

    This should work : Pioneer Class FD 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier w/1,200 Watts Max Power, Model GM-D8604: crutchfield SPECS

    4-channel car amplifier
    100 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
    125 watts RMS x 4 at 1 ohm
    300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (250 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 2 ohms)


    2: 8 awg amp wiring kit with inline fuse (inline waterproof fuseholder within a few inches of battery connection).

    Now because we are going with the higher wattage than planned, so I guess we should go with 4awg. How does this look like?

    KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit

    The only issue is ground wire is 3 feet, which means we need to get the negative from somewhere in the truck. I have never done that, so I am not sure how good that is. I have seen the videos on mp3car where they started with using the negative from the truck, but later decided to get it from the battery. Please suggest if anyone had any issues with this.

    3: Set of component door mount adapter plates: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SAT6...-Brackets.html

    These look good.

    4: 6.5" Component speakers no deeper than 3" mounting depth, with no larger than 1" tweeters, and includes a crossover box.

    I will go and find these.

    I am also trying to figure out if my current speakers would work with the new amp. I do want to change the speakers, just don't want to keep everything for the same weekend.

    5: 50' Roll of generic thick insulation 16awg speaker zip chord wire. Don't have to be oxygen free because we will solder the connections and never worry about vibration or oxidation again.

    Mediabridge 16AWG Speaker Wire (100 Feet). This is also in 50 feet, but I don't see there is a big price difference.


    6: Get this bluetooth dongle and connect to the amp's input, then stream audio from your tablet or phone for $40Milennia MIL-BTREC

    I will go and read more on this one. I was also looking at:

    Logitech Wireless Speaker Adapter for Bluetooth Audio Devices

    I still have to figure out the 5v power supply for the tablet and the hub. Do I use a 5v dc to dc converter or a 24 W USB Car Charger.


    For the people who are still following this thread - I went to meet Rray this week to check out his setup. Of course his setup was great, but what was even amazing was, his lab, where he does all his magic. He had everything in there, he might never need to go out for his carpc setup. I even found a carpc laying around in there. Great work Rray!!

    pkaush

  7. #47
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    These speaker look nice: Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75-Inch D-Series 280-Watt Speaker Package, and looks like they can do great with 100 Watt RMS

    Mounting Depth: 2-1/2" (64.5 mm)
    Cut-out Dimensions: 5-5/8" (144 mm)

    and it comes with a Custom-Fit Basket: 6x8 and Shallow Mount Adapters Included. I need to get the 6x9 Mount Adapters for my car.

    Now, because I am planning to use a tablet in my setup - would I need to have a separate battery in my setup to run AMP and speakers.

  8. #48
    Variable Bitrate camo.b's Avatar
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    You could just about skip the battery i would have thought...if it were me i would run with a 12v tablet charger and wire the rest up as normal.should you have power probs this can be added later

  9. #49
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    There is one more option. We could wire in inductive charging and then you would not need any wires to the tablet, doing everything wirelessly.

    Install a router in the trunk with a USB port for NAS of media. BT audio, and inductive charger in the tablet cradle only powers up when the ignition is on. The inductive receiver is paper thin, and can be soldered to the inside of the USB plug.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  10. #50
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    Yes, you need a DC-DC converter to get 5v, and those are available at the mp3car.com store. I use one to power my screen.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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