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Thread: Planning my first Carpc - will appreciate any suggestions and help

  1. #71
    Constant Bitrate
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOtwistR View Post
    this is the electrical wiring diagram 2006-2011 http://twintower.homeip.net/Toyota C...ng Diagram.pdf hope this helps SNO

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOtwistR View Post
    this is the electrical wiring diagram 2006-2011 http://twintower.homeip.net/Toyota C...ng Diagram.pdf hope this helps SNO
    Thanks you SNO!

  3. #73
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    Remember, on page 4 of this thread, we discussed why having lower gauge wire would help - well, so that it can carry more current (V = IR) - thanks to OldSpark and Project07Macry for establishing that. Now what I am trying to understand is, could there be a downside of using thicker wire then required. What I am trying to do is for wiring from DCDC converter to hub & tablet, I have plenty of 14 gauge speaker wire and I guess it would be a good idea to use that instead of getting a 22 gauge wire. The load would mostly not go above 5 amp. Please let me know if it could do some harm.

    Also, before putting the speakers and tweeters in place, just to test in the truck, I need to provide current in the acc line of the amplifier and it is 12v, so would it be ok to short the acc line from amp to 12 v positive line going to amp?


    pkaush

  4. #74
    Maximum Bitrate rray's Avatar
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    You can jump a wire from 12v to acc on your amp to test only.
    The 14awg should be fine for 5 amps as that is all my car has wired to the cigarette lighter port.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  5. #75
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    Thanks Rray, that helps!

  6. #76
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    Re the wire gauge, the only downsides are weight, expense, and routing & connection inconvenience. Oh - and maybe earlier breakage thru less flexibility (I'm thinking of fat cables between engines and body - eg, alternator +12V & grounds).

    It's similar to a huge ginormous battery - eg, 1000AH instead of a 1.2AH - you cannot "push" Amps into a load, they take what they take (V=IR). It's the voltage that determines the current (and the load size aka resistance of course).

    Same with wire gauge. It doesn't matter if you have a huge fat pipe - it only "flows" the water accepted by the drain (load).
    [ That analogy is limited. Tho the load is at the end, in the water analogy it's more like it controls the inlet to the pipe (orifice size or valve opening). Hence the pipe can handle a huge surge (short circuit or burp) without overflowing. ]


    Speaking of WOFTAMs (following on from my first paragraph)...
    Dang - I can't upload images...
    Here's the full sized original... Grouse Grounding Kit (NOT!!)
    Last edited by OldSpark; 02-28-2014 at 05:59 PM.

  7. #77
    FLAC SNOtwistR's Avatar
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    Not sure if it applies here or is available in small quanities, but in telecom DC wiring we used alot of DLO type which is very flexible plus all the other benefits being oil/fuel/flame resistant and a very tough protective outside. I might a few pieces laying around depending on the gauge you need. You just pay the shipping SNO

  8. #78
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    Thanks oldspark!

    Quote Originally Posted by SNOtwistR View Post
    Not sure if it applies here or is available in small quanities, but in telecom DC wiring we used alot of DLO type which is very flexible plus all the other benefits being oil/fuel/flame resistant and a very tough protective outside. I might a few pieces laying around depending on the gauge you need. You just pay the shipping SNO
    SNO - We have found the appropriate wire, thanks for offering!

  9. #79
    Constant Bitrate Project07MACry's Avatar
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    Bump!

    I'm curious to see if there is a worklog for this thread!!
    All systems are a go...
    Currently in "tweaking" mode.

    The Worklog

  10. #80
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