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Thread: Wiring Help for BMW E46 Car Puter!

  1. #11
    Low Bitrate scottholmes's Avatar
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    Who knew things could be that detailed!

    I dont think my PSU is the M3, im pretty sure when i got it i bought the M2. I'm going to dig it out (the only part i cant seem to find) and double check to make sure which one it is.

    I do like the idea of trying it without first, like you say i might end up not needing one. As im planning to put the PC in/near the glovebox i wouldnt be that hard to splice one in at a later date if i needed one. I have read around though that you need to 'Charge' the cap first but that seems relatively straight forward.

    I've ordered the other bits which should come today or soon and then i can start building i will be sure to post some pics when done!

  2. #12
    Newbie aidilj's Avatar
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    Hey scottholmes, thanks for visiting the blog. I actually have a thread on the project here as well. The capacitor was added not to address any specific problem, it is just added as a ballast for any voltage droop. Not sure about the value myself but it is quite big, probably in 10000uf range.

    I don't know how long has it been but the carputer is still running strong..

  3. #13
    Low Bitrate scottholmes's Avatar
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    Hey

    Thanks for getting back to me, after talking on here and to an electrician friend i am going to try it without a capacitor first and see how it goes, but i'll leave it so i can put in one later if i need.

    I hope to be starting soon, work is stopping me!

  4. #14
    Raw Wave
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    I'd be interested in outcomes - ie, with and without a cap.

    aidilj - note that as I wrote earlier, unless that cap is isolated via a diode (which means a ~0.3V drop if a Schottky or ~0.6 - 0.7 or higher drop if silicon), then that cap is also supplying or filtering ALL other loads on that +12V supply - ie, the battery, IgnCoil, headlights, etc. It is only cable/path resistance that may bias the capacitor towards the carputor. (Path length will be negligible in a vehicle.)


    PS - aidilj - have you noticed any difference between having that cap and NOT having that cap? (If so, what?)
    Last edited by OldSpark; 01-25-2014 at 10:40 AM. Reason: PS...

  5. #15
    Newbie aidilj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldSpark View Post
    I'd be interested in outcomes - ie, with and without a cap.

    aidilj - note that as I wrote earlier, unless that cap is isolated via a diode (which means a ~0.3V drop if a Schottky or ~0.6 - 0.7 or higher drop if silicon), then that cap is also supplying or filtering ALL other loads on that +12V supply - ie, the battery, IgnCoil, headlights, etc. It is only cable/path resistance that may bias the capacitor towards the carputor. (Path length will be negligible in a vehicle.)


    PS - aidilj - have you noticed any difference between having that cap and NOT having that cap? (If so, what?)
    Hey OldSpark, agreed, I just thought that it would be nice to have since the wires to the headunit are not designed to handle high powered device. I remember seeing the LCD backlight to dim along with the bass, but now the DIY amp was replaced with a boosted rail rockford fosgate amp in the boot, close to the battery.

    This is the original thread : http://www.mp3car.com/show-off-your-...-carputer.html

    That's the thing, the wiring harness was designed from the start to include the capacitor, so couldn't do a comparison.

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