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Thread: Best way to power carputer? Please help a newbie!

  1. #11
    Variable Bitrate telekineticfool's Avatar
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    and putting batteries in the trunk would be WAY harder than just doing the invertor correctly on the primary battery. AND you would still need to do the inline fuse thing...any time you are running an unregulated hot wire through the body of the car you need a fuse on it.
    MP3 MR2 (click here for details)
    Hardware: EPIA M10000, 512Meg Ram, 5.6"TFT, Opus 150watt DC-DC PSU
    Software: Windows 2000, Media Engine 2.0

  2. #12
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    Hmm!

    Quote Originally Posted by telekineticfool
    and putting batteries in the trunk would be WAY harder than just doing the invertor correctly on the primary battery. AND you would still need to do the inline fuse thing...any time you are running an unregulated hot wire through the body of the car you need a fuse on it.
    And where would I purchase this circuit breaker to put in between my car battery and the inverter? Is this the one? It's hard to tell from the picture...where and how does this connect to the battery and the the inverter.

    Here's the link to the fuse holder: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=270%2D1237

  3. #13
    Variable Bitrate telekineticfool's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yuprules
    And where would I purchase this circuit breaker to put in between my car battery and the inverter? Is this the one? It's hard to tell from the picture...where and how does this connect to the battery and the the inverter.

    Here's the link to the fuse holder: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=270%2D1237
    That would work fine...just buy a pair of large-gauge crimp connectors and cut you invertor wire near the red end and splice that in.

    So it would go Invertor----[fuse]---battery

    Also, does your invertor have jumper-cable style clamps on it, or post connectors? You'll want to cut the cable-clamp connectors off if that is what it has, and use space connectors (if your wire is 10-12 gauge) or copper lugs (if it's bigger than that). If you don't understand what I mean, I'll try to get some pictures posted soon.
    MP3 MR2 (click here for details)
    Hardware: EPIA M10000, 512Meg Ram, 5.6"TFT, Opus 150watt DC-DC PSU
    Software: Windows 2000, Media Engine 2.0

  4. #14
    Constant Bitrate
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    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by telekineticfool
    That would work fine...just buy a pair of large-gauge crimp connectors and cut you invertor wire near the red end and splice that in.

    So it would go Invertor----[fuse]---battery

    Also, does your invertor have jumper-cable style clamps on it, or post connectors? You'll want to cut the cable-clamp connectors off if that is what it has, and use space connectors (if your wire is 10-12 gauge) or copper lugs (if it's bigger than that). If you don't understand what I mean, I'll try to get some pictures posted soon.
    Yup, it's those cable - clamp ones that came with the inverter...fun fun, I get to cut cables. I feel like I'm in shop class all over again.

    Someone really should make an FAQ on connecting an inverter/fuse directly to a car battery as this is the most important step for a Carputer/mp3 car. I do hope you can post pictures of the space connectors (I think I know what that is) and copper lugs (wah?).

    Don't worry, I know WHAT order to connect all these things...my inverter manual tells me to ensure that the inverter is wired up before connecting the + terminal and then last the -. I don't want any exploding car battery!

  5. #15
    Variable Bitrate telekineticfool's Avatar
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    lol I'm an idiot, I meant spade connectors...space...hehe...lemme pull up some pics really quick for ya...feel free to PM me if you have any more questions, i did a really major 22 hour straight wiring job on my car to get my carputer running so i feel pretty comfortable.

    OK, before you do any wiring DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL (black wire) when I was first learning to wire, I almost electrocuted myself when I absentmindedly touched an unfused large gauge wire to the body of the car while i was running it. Not fun...it was my first experience welding

    is what you will want...you can buy them at WalMart or Lowe's Hardware or Home Depot or Autozone or wherever...you'll want to get yellow ones (largest common gauge). Look at your battery and make sure that the bolts attached to your lug nut clamps (not the lugs themselves) is small enough to go through the center hole, or, rather, you buy ring connectors large enough to go around that bolt. If you can find connectors that are close, you can always drill/file it a little bit to make it wider.

    Also, you don't have to connect the black line to the battery...any decent-sized bolt in the body or engine of your car will do. I have mine back by the carputer behind the driver's seat, actually.

    Also, while you're at it, buy an in-line fuse housing for your invertor. Crimp the ring connector to one fuse lead, and your red invertor wire to the other. Then check the amp rating on your invertor, or find out the watts and volts math to calculate it yourself, and put a fuse of at least that amperage in the holder. Safety First!
    MP3 MR2 (click here for details)
    Hardware: EPIA M10000, 512Meg Ram, 5.6"TFT, Opus 150watt DC-DC PSU
    Software: Windows 2000, Media Engine 2.0

  6. #16
    Constant Bitrate
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    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by telekineticfool
    lol I'm an idiot, I meant spade connectors...space...hehe...lemme pull up some pics really quick for ya...feel free to PM me if you have any more questions, i did a really major 22 hour straight wiring job on my car to get my carputer running so i feel pretty comfortable.

    OK, before you do any wiring DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL (black wire) when I was first learning to wire, I almost electrocuted myself when I absentmindedly touched an unfused large gauge wire to the body of the car while i was running it. Not fun...it was my first experience welding

    is what you will want...you can buy them at WalMart or Lowe's Hardware or Home Depot or Autozone or wherever...you'll want to get yellow ones (largest common gauge). Look at your battery and make sure that the bolts attached to your lug nut clamps (not the lugs themselves) is small enough to go through the center hole, or, rather, you buy ring connectors large enough to go around that bolt. If you can find connectors that are close, you can always drill/file it a little bit to make it wider.

    Also, you don't have to connect the black line to the battery...any decent-sized bolt in the body or engine of your car will do. I have mine back by the carputer behind the driver's seat, actually.

    Also, while you're at it, buy an in-line fuse housing for your invertor. Crimp the ring connector to one fuse lead, and your red invertor wire to the other. Then check the amp rating on your invertor, or find out the watts and volts math to calculate it yourself, and put a fuse of at least that amperage in the holder. Safety First!
    Thanks very much for the many tips and even the picture! I'll be sure to private message you if I need any specific help regarding wiring it up. Thanks again and take care!

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by yuprules
    Anyone know if how long batteries last if you were to use it constantly "stand alone" on a 90w device like a laptop?
    for the sake of completeness...and to further convince yourself of using the inverter...assume that the laptop draws the full 90w of power...so look at the car battery you're using and find out the a-hour capacity (most deep cycles are in the 50-70ish ah capacities) and divide that by the number of amps consumed by the 90w device. if you're using multiple batteries and you hook them up correctly, as someone pointed out, the two capacities should (for simplicities sake) just add together. i.e. two 70ah batteries would have a capacity of 2 x 70ah = 140ah

    for the other calculations, figure that out as follows:

    remember that P = IE (watts = current x volts), so 90W = n x 12v (let's just use 12v for sake of ease). therefore, n (your current load) = 90W / 12v = 7.5 a

    a 70ah battery, with your notebook drawing the full 90W, would last for approximately 70ah / 7.5a = 9 1/3 hours...

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