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Thread: Looking forward to get the DC-DC PSU and now...

  1. #1
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    Looking forward to get the DC-DC PSU and now...

    Hi all,
    I just got the Lilliput Screen and have the AMD XP1900+ computer system ready to install in my G35 Sedan. Now i am searching a place that sell Opus 150w DV-DV power supply, can anyone here direct me to some sellers have it instock? My other question is I am going to put my computer in the trunk and how can I connect the PSU to the car battery? Is there any direct outlet from the battery located in the trunk?

    Thank you in advance,
    cwho

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    Raw Wave Confused's Avatar
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    Co-Developer of A.I.M.E.E
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  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate Cherub211's Avatar
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    You'll have to run a wire from your battery to your trunk just like the rest of us, the ground on the other hand can be attached to the bare metal of the car's frame.

  4. #4
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    Thanks, but how can I run a cable from under the hood to the trunk? How can the cable go from engine compartment to the interior, then to the trunk? Forgive my dumbness, i am a totally newbie on car electronics.




    Quote Originally Posted by Cherub211
    You'll have to run a wire from your battery to your trunk just like the rest of us, the ground on the other hand can be attached to the bare metal of the car's frame.

  5. #5
    Low Bitrate frenchnew's Avatar
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    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by cwho122
    Thanks, but how can I run a cable from under the hood to the trunk? How can the cable go from engine compartment to the interior, then to the trunk? Forgive my dumbness, i am a totally newbie on car electronics.

    OK, here we go. Please take notice that I put some section in CAPITAL LETTERS to emphasize the importance.

    Material you need:

    30 Amp fuse with a waterproof fuseholder (This will be attached within 6 inches of the car's battery on that wire you run to the trunk). This will prevent your car from catching on fire should a short circuit happens on the wire. Something like this

    https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servl...d=11183&page=1

    Or this

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6239&DID=7

    The model from Parts Express do not need to be soldered, the wire is secured with a set screw that required an allen key. THis is easier to work with.

    Depending on the car, would say at least 15 feet of insulated 6 gauge
    multistrand wire (Measure with a string by attaching it to the battery and run it under the car to the end of your car's rear bumper then add 4 feet for good measure.

    Some loom the run the wire in so as to protect it from the scuffing; see
    https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servl...d=66245&page=1

    Loom Clamps/Cable Clamps (Sized to the exterior dimension of the loom)to secure the wire at every 12 inches, see
    https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servl...tid=283&page=1

    Self-Tapping metal screws properly sizes for the screw hole of the Loom Clamps, approx. 3/4 inch long.

    A Grommet properly sized to feed the wire through the sheet metal, something like this:
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6303&DID=7

    At least 1 Ring terminal to accept 6 gauge wire with a 5/16 ring hole if your car battery is of the model that has top mounted battery posts, see..
    https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servl...d=92017&page=1

    You do not have to enter the interior. You can run the wire underneath the car and make sure it is secured at least every 12 inches with a cable clamp, and enter it directly in the trunk area.

    Optional: Power Distribution Block Fused or not (If you select the fused one,it would make it easy to add a battery in the trunk later on).

    As usual, some means to jack the car up and make sure it is secured with proper stands(do not use concrete blocks and do not rely on the jack, your life is at stake here)

    When you have assembled all the required material, you have to be careful where you will run the wire so as to prevent it from getting caught on moving parts or the hot exhaust pipe.

    Insert the wire in the loom before you start and leave at least 1 foot of wire uncovered.

    Start by running the wire with at least 1 foot extra at the battery(The uncovered part) and then run it inder the car to the back and secure your wire/loom as you go along.

    Also, make sure that were you will screw the metal screws to secure the clamps that you will not screw into pipes/tubing(Brake/fuel line) and that you will not screw in electrical wires on the other side of the sheet metal.

    You will need to choose an area were you are going to drill the hole in the trunk and with the use of the grommet, make sure you have at least a 5 inch round area free around the hole, this will make matters alot easier to install the grommet and you will need a friend to secure or to hold the grommet while you secure it to the sheet metal.)

    Once the wire is installed, select space for the fuse within 6 inches long of wire from the battery. If there is a fuse in the fuseholder - remove it before proceeding to the next step;

    Cut 6 inches off the extra wire but do not discard it, you will need it shorthly.

    The install wire will have to have a portion of it's insulation removed, about 1/2 inch, leaving you with uncovered copper strands. Install this end in one end of the fuse-holder (THe one from Parts Express) will need to remove the plastic end cap at one end, feend that cap over the wire making sure that the threaded portion is pointing outward. Using the proper size allen key , loosen the set screw enough to permit the insertion of the bare copper strands up until the gold barrel is against the insulation and secure the setscrew firmly.

    Repeat for the other side with the 6 inches piece we cut off earlier.

    Once this is done, re-assemble the fuse caps to the fuse-holder but DO NOT INSERT A FUSE AT THIS TIME!

    You will then have to connect the Ring terminal to the wire by removing the insulation (1/2 inch) and insert it in the barrel end and crimp it with a good pair of vise grip plier making sure that the barrel is tight against the copper strand.

    In the next step, if your car is equipped with a radio that needs a code to be entered if it's ever disconnected, make sure you do have that code first and disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal from the Battery (Marked with -- on the Battery).

    Next you will loosen the bolt that secures the Positive(+) Battery post and remove the nut, insert the ring terminal and re-install the nut and tighten properly(until you can't twist the terminal)

    You can then re-install the negative battery terminal to the battery.


    DO NOT INSTALL THE FUSE UNTIL THE END OF THAT WIRE IN YOUR TRUNK IS CONNECTED PROPERLY to the power supply and that it is not grounded to bear metal.

    Your power supply will also require a good ground point on the car's chassis.

    THe place you choose has your ground point will have to have an area scrubbed to bare metal big enough for the terminal to make good connection.

    Once the ground is installed properly, put some grease over it to prevent corrosion.


    Best regards from Montreal, Canada

    frenchnew

  6. #6
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    Or you can go to your local car stereo install bay, and inquire about amplifier install prices. Its pretty much the same job.

  7. #7
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    Mar 2004
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    Thank you all for your advices!
    I guess i will ask the local car stereo technician to install the wire for me...cos I don't have any tools or space to do that.
    ANyone know how much it would be? I am in Los Angeles area.
    Also, anyone have a opus 150w for sale?


    Quote Originally Posted by Audio Bandit
    Or you can go to your local car stereo install bay, and inquire about amplifier install prices. Its pretty much the same job.

  8. #8
    Raw Wave Laidback's Avatar
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    Madrid
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    Quote Originally Posted by frenchnew
    OK, here we go. Please take notice that I put some section in CAPITAL LETTERS to emphasize the importance.

    Material you need:

    30 Amp fuse with a waterproof fuseholder (This will be attached within 6 inches of the car's battery on that wire you run to the trunk). This will prevent your car from catching on fire should a short circuit happens on the wire. Something like this

    https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servl...d=11183&page=1

    Or this

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6239&DID=7

    The model from Parts Express do not need to be soldered, the wire is secured with a set screw that required an allen key. THis is easier to work with.

    Depending on the car, would say at least 15 feet of insulated 6 gauge
    multistrand wire (Measure with a string by attaching it to the battery and run it under the car to the end of your car's rear bumper then add 4 feet for good measure.

    Some loom the run the wire in so as to protect it from the scuffing; see
    https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servl...d=66245&page=1

    Loom Clamps/Cable Clamps (Sized to the exterior dimension of the loom)to secure the wire at every 12 inches, see
    https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servl...tid=283&page=1

    Self-Tapping metal screws properly sizes for the screw hole of the Loom Clamps, approx. 3/4 inch long.

    A Grommet properly sized to feed the wire through the sheet metal, something like this:
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6303&DID=7

    At least 1 Ring terminal to accept 6 gauge wire with a 5/16 ring hole if your car battery is of the model that has top mounted battery posts, see..
    https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servl...d=92017&page=1

    You do not have to enter the interior. You can run the wire underneath the car and make sure it is secured at least every 12 inches with a cable clamp, and enter it directly in the trunk area.

    Optional: Power Distribution Block Fused or not (If you select the fused one,it would make it easy to add a battery in the trunk later on).

    As usual, some means to jack the car up and make sure it is secured with proper stands(do not use concrete blocks and do not rely on the jack, your life is at stake here)

    When you have assembled all the required material, you have to be careful where you will run the wire so as to prevent it from getting caught on moving parts or the hot exhaust pipe.

    Insert the wire in the loom before you start and leave at least 1 foot of wire uncovered.

    Start by running the wire with at least 1 foot extra at the battery(The uncovered part) and then run it inder the car to the back and secure your wire/loom as you go along.

    Also, make sure that were you will screw the metal screws to secure the clamps that you will not screw into pipes/tubing(Brake/fuel line) and that you will not screw in electrical wires on the other side of the sheet metal.

    You will need to choose an area were you are going to drill the hole in the trunk and with the use of the grommet, make sure you have at least a 5 inch round area free around the hole, this will make matters alot easier to install the grommet and you will need a friend to secure or to hold the grommet while you secure it to the sheet metal.)

    Once the wire is installed, select space for the fuse within 6 inches long of wire from the battery. If there is a fuse in the fuseholder - remove it before proceeding to the next step;

    Cut 6 inches off the extra wire but do not discard it, you will need it shorthly.

    The install wire will have to have a portion of it's insulation removed, about 1/2 inch, leaving you with uncovered copper strands. Install this end in one end of the fuse-holder (THe one from Parts Express) will need to remove the plastic end cap at one end, feend that cap over the wire making sure that the threaded portion is pointing outward. Using the proper size allen key , loosen the set screw enough to permit the insertion of the bare copper strands up until the gold barrel is against the insulation and secure the setscrew firmly.

    Repeat for the other side with the 6 inches piece we cut off earlier.

    Once this is done, re-assemble the fuse caps to the fuse-holder but DO NOT INSERT A FUSE AT THIS TIME!

    You will then have to connect the Ring terminal to the wire by removing the insulation (1/2 inch) and insert it in the barrel end and crimp it with a good pair of vise grip plier making sure that the barrel is tight against the copper strand.

    In the next step, if your car is equipped with a radio that needs a code to be entered if it's ever disconnected, make sure you do have that code first and disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal from the Battery (Marked with -- on the Battery).

    Next you will loosen the bolt that secures the Positive(+) Battery post and remove the nut, insert the ring terminal and re-install the nut and tighten properly(until you can't twist the terminal)

    You can then re-install the negative battery terminal to the battery.


    DO NOT INSTALL THE FUSE UNTIL THE END OF THAT WIRE IN YOUR TRUNK IS CONNECTED PROPERLY to the power supply and that it is not grounded to bear metal.

    Your power supply will also require a good ground point on the car's chassis.

    THe place you choose has your ground point will have to have an area scrubbed to bare metal big enough for the terminal to make good connection.

    Once the ground is installed properly, put some grease over it to prevent corrosion.


    Best regards from Montreal, Canada

    frenchnew
    Quote Originally Posted by cwho122
    I guess i will ask the local car stereo technician to install the wire for me...
    That's gratitude for you, frenchnew!

  9. #9
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    oh my god umm cwho122 i found out the best of findind the prices was to phone a local car steroe guy yourself do some reasearch your self

  10. #10
    Low Bitrate frenchnew's Avatar
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    Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laidback
    That's gratitude for you, frenchnew!
    You win some and you loose some

    regards

    frenchnew

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