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Thread: another USB slot dvd thread!

  1. #31
    Variable Bitrate RogerWilco's Avatar
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    heres a image:
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  2. #32
    pip
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    Maximum Bitrate pip's Avatar
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    Totall: $110

    Enclosure is aluminum, power in is a 5v barrel connector so connecting power is easy. I have the USB/Firewire version of the enclosure and it is really solid.

    USB enclosure ($49):
    http://www.bixnet.com/usenforslcdd.html


    Slim DVD drive ($71):
    http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProduc...factory=BROWSE
    EPoX mATX SocketA w/onboard Geforce4MX / 512MB PC2700 / AthlonXP 1600
    Lilliput / DVDrom / Opus 150W / WD 3.5" 160GB / SB Audigy NX
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  3. #33
    Variable Bitrate RogerWilco's Avatar
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    Thats what we were looking at , we were deciding how to mod that to run off a standard power connector for a drive, rather than run a inverter, and give that thing ac power

  4. #34
    Variable Bitrate RogerWilco's Avatar
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    oh btw is there a way to change what it says under your avatar? it would be really conveint if i could make it say inergalatic janitor. Thanks. i know you can at caraudio.com, which is alot like this forum

  5. #35
    pip
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    Easy, run a 5v wire from any molex connector in the PC to the front of the car, connect with a ratshack barrel connector & run a local ground up front.

    You could also connect a 5v molex into the USB cable 5v line, providing enough 5v juice on the USB cable to run the drive.
    EPoX mATX SocketA w/onboard Geforce4MX / 512MB PC2700 / AthlonXP 1600
    Lilliput / DVDrom / Opus 150W / WD 3.5" 160GB / SB Audigy NX
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  6. #36
    Newbie jyopp's Avatar
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    Getting Power Forward

    Well, if you have a spare USB Cigarette Lighter Adapter, I'd say just use that. With an adapter up front, you'll reduce strain on the power supply, reduce noise in the system, and (probably) get a faster/smoother boot process. Just pull out the cig. lighter connection at the front and run two pairs of wires through the open hole in the tip, solder them to the board, and you're set. If you don't remove the existing connectors, then you haven't even ruined it.

    My adapter says it supplies 500mA@5V, but it is unregulated inside, and uses a 2A fuse. That means it should supply close to 3A@5V, even if it's only 60% efficient. It's never heated up noticably before, but most USB devices are designed not to draw more than 500mA anyway. Maybe I'll find a tiny heatsink for the IC.
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  7. #37
    Variable Bitrate RogerWilco's Avatar
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    thats pretty conveint, dont exactly understand how that cigarete lighter to usb works though ? if you get the power from the usb and connect the appliance to the cigarette lighter, how exactly do you transfer the data to the system itself? Thanks

  8. #38
    Newbie jyopp's Avatar
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    All the CLA-> USB adapter does is supply 5V regulated output. It's designed to recharge stuff like PDA's, some Digital Cameras, etc. If you wanted to use it to power a USB device over the bus, you could just splice a USB cable and connect the data pins on the connector. USB has separate bus-power and data ground wires, so you only need to connect the two inner pins for it to work. In the picture above, the 4 USB pins are (top to bottom) V_GND, Data_+, Data_-, V_+.

    The original suggestion was to solder the barrel connector for the DVD enclosure to the outer pins, and leave the USB plug on the outside of the adapter alone. But if you have a USB->IDE enclosure that can draw all its power through the USB cable in excess of the 500mA spec (a LOT of the cheaper enclosures do this, often they'll have a PS/2 or additional USB plug to draw the required power), you could just use this as a kind of splitter to separate the power-drawing lines from the data lines and run your high-power device from the USB port in the adapter. Neat idea.

  9. #39
    Variable Bitrate RogerWilco's Avatar
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    ah i figured you'd have to do something along those lines, the only thing i dont want to mod in any way would be my opus power supply, because i would like to retain my warranty. however i could use the 5v fan connector to power things such as external usb drives correct? or are amps too low ?

  10. #40
    Newbie jyopp's Avatar
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    Well, see... it wouldn't be a power supply mod at all. You'd just get a spare USB cable and connect the data lines to the adapter. The USB voltage lines from the motherboard wouldn't be connected, so it wouldn't be affecting the PC's power supply at all.

    You can use the 5V fan connector or, if you have to do a really long run from the power supply and the voltage dips too low, you can give it 7V by using the +12V rail as your positive and grounding it to the +5V rail. A lot of people do that on desktops to make their processor fans spin faster for overclocked processors.

    Remember that it's a better idea (especially if you want to push a lot of power) to use one of the Molex connectors rather than your motherboard's fan connector. You can find a broken 5V fan or a "Y" adapter anywhere; just use that rather than cutting on your PSU wires. If you want it to look nice, you could even go to Fry's or Radio Shack and get the power plug for the USB drive and a female floppy drive connector and make a long power cable.

    I was just recommending the adapter above because the drive isn't connected at all to the PC's power supply. Running a 20-foot cable from your power supply might not be the best idea.

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