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Thread: BMW 330ci Planning

  1. #11
    Newbie jyopp's Avatar
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    Spending Money?

    If you want a really kick-*** system, with pro-level audio, and money is (apparently) no object, try this:

    Run 1/0 gauge to a battery in the trunk, then to a 1F capacitor, then into an Opus 150W supply (using laptop drives, which is a smart idea, means that should be enough for most any motherboard/proc you want to use). That should get you some really clean power going into the system. Also, make sure you get the turn-on lead accessory for the Opus.

    Run DVI cable to the front of the car, then use a good DVI->VGA adapter up front to reduce monitor signal loss on the run from the trunk. You'll probably want an optical drive up front, too, so get a slot-loading DVD burner and run it off USB. Run your turn-on lead to the front, and use it to trigger a second (90W or so) power supply for the DVI->VGA adapter and the DVD drive (keep noise out of the main circuit), and maybe a USB hub for keyboards, mice, game controllers, IR remote, etc. Just make sure that the PC can boot without all the junk up front and keep the DVD drive on a separate circuit.

    You should choose a sound card carefully. A Creative Extigy would be a good choice for PC-managed audio, or use onboard sound with digital output and just do the D/A conversion offboard. Beyond that, just make sure you get the audio equipment you want, don't skimp on cables, and you should still fall well within your budget.

    Get a 2 or 4GB solid-state disk if you can find it in your price range. CompactFlash cards are attractive because they are cheaper, but they are lower voltage, lower current drives and can't stand up to being constantly rewritten like industrial flash disks do. This ought to cut your boot time by a lot, especially if you can hibernate to it.

    If you are going to use WiFi in the system, I'd add it last. There's a new 802.11n standard that will be a lot faster, but it's still awaiting finalization. Anything that moves content faster will ultimately save you not only hassle, but probably battery power as well. Any time you can cut a 20 minute sync operation down to 5 minutes, is a good time.

  2. #12
    FLAC ppgt94's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jyopp
    If you want a really kick-*** system, with pro-level audio, and money is (apparently) no object, try this:

    Run 1/0 gauge to a battery in the trunk, then to a 1F capacitor, then into an Opus 150W supply (using laptop drives, which is a smart idea, means that should be enough for most any motherboard/proc you want to use). That should get you some really clean power going into the system. Also, make sure you get the turn-on lead accessory for the Opus.
    0, or even 1 Gauge is pretty extreme! No need for that. Don't all Opus 150s come with ACC line wire???

    Run DVI cable to the front of the car, then use a good DVI->VGA adapter up front to reduce monitor signal loss on the run from the trunk. You'll probably want an optical drive up front, too, so get a slot-loading DVD burner and run it off USB. Run your turn-on lead to the front, and use it to trigger a second (90W or so) power supply for the DVI->VGA adapter and the DVD drive (keep noise out of the main circuit), and maybe a USB hub for keyboards, mice, game controllers, IR remote, etc. Just make sure that the PC can boot without all the junk up front and keep the DVD drive on a separate circuit.
    Can you explain why the need to go VGA>DVI>VGA? Epsecially for a (most likey) 7" LCD display?

    Get a 2 or 4GB solid-state disk if you can find it in your price range. CompactFlash cards are attractive because they are cheaper, but they are lower voltage, lower current drives and can't stand up to being constantly rewritten like industrial flash disks do. This ought to cut your boot time by a lot, especially if you can hibernate to it.
    Do you have any "real-life" examples? I've heard that XP (other than perhaps embedded) on a CF does not offer much advantage than a motor drive.

  3. #13
    Constant Bitrate GWRedDragon's Avatar
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    Flash drives are still limited by the controller like any other drive, and data read is probably going to be on par with a 10,000rpm drive...seek times will be lower, but unless your drive is really fragmented I doubt a few 4ms seek operations will hurt anyone.

    Basically spinning magnetic drives are superior to flash drives in all respects but operating environment range. It's not worth it to use a flash drive unless you're talking really high temperature ranges or large amounts of shock. And when it comes to shock, standard drives can be mounted well enough for almost any condition a carpc might encounter.

    Sky-high prices and low disk sizes finish off the flash drives. Why spend thousands on a flash drive when you could be spending that money on something...anything where it would actually really matter. You can always get a better screen, amplifier, speakers, power supply, custom fiberglassing job, engine, shifter knob, rear spoiler, small island nation, whatever. You could even use that $2000 you save to buy us a supply of automotive grade AM/FM tuner chips

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