In response to everyone asking about their carpcs

**RogerWilco** · 08-24-2004, 01:24 PM

FIRST OFF! Don't let this deter you from making a carpc because the prices seem high, this is a very nice system, and many of these componenets could be easily swapped for cheaper ones, if thats what you wanted. I posted these items, because they were the best of what i could get for my price range, and i thought they were reasonably priced.
There are 100 different ways you can take to make a carPC, this is the one i chose

Here are Great components for the money, and a decent explanation of stuff, look here if your just thinking about setting up a carpc.
bottom for pricing totals.

mATX motherboard, and 2.7ghz Celeron - 120$
Includes Chaintech 9VIF1 VIA Socket 478 microATX Motherboard and Celeron 2.7ghz
Motherboard has onboard video, audio, usb ps/2, serial, 10/100 and ps/2.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Se...6794&CatId=1232
Motherboard
Processor

Spire CoolWave CPU Cooler For Intel CPUS - 25$
'low profile ~(50mm high)' for celeron 2.8ghz 'sink 'n fan, 2500-4200 rpm
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc....-151-116&depa=1
Heatsink And Fan

AHANIX Silver/Blue Micro ATX Desktop With LCD Display -26$
Great Micro ATX case, built in fan/temp monitor LCD monitor on case
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc....-126-141&depa=0
Case

Powmax 60mm Case fan (suggested aux fans) - 4$
Quiet, Fast, 60mm, fit the case. 4200 rpms. 12v, Suggested 2!
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc....-886-001&depa=1
60mm Fan

Zalman NP(Noise Prevention)Heatpipe HDD Cooler -27$
Great hard drive silencer, cooler, and mounting unit. Its perfect for mounting in your vehicle, it has rubber stoppers for shock absorbtion
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc....-118-215&depa=1
Hard Drive Mounting Bracket/Silencer/Cooler

Power Supplies, two main categories here:
DC - DC (more expensive, more efficeint, lower power, less noise, cleaner)
Definiton: DC-DC, DC=Direct current, what batteries ouput, and computers use. A DC-DC regulated power supply, simply connects to a car battery, and powers your computer, it makes sure you componets wont get fried.

Opus Solutions, makes a wide variety of these, from 60watt to 150watt. The 150watt retails at 200$, but has some great features, shutdown controller for your PC, pertects against voltage spikes, survives crank, autoshutdowns on lower voltage, has a 20amp automotive blade fuse. It also comes in a case, and connects directly to your battery.(DC-DC car 150w) +200$

DC-AC, AC-DC
DC-AC is only 90% efficent at wattages around 150 (continous), same for AC-DC, meaningly you'll lose 20% power to noise and heat. However this option is much cheaper, and can hit way higher wattages. However you cannot run this through crank (without risking damage to your components) and you'll have to make sure these are well ventilated. While you could get a 500 watt computer psu and 500 continous inverter for 40$.

CAUTION: The efficieny of an inverter, and of a AC-DC psu, will decrease greatly as the wattage increases! That means that 90% is ideal for an inverter at 150 watts, it will most likely not achieve this, and no one needs that little power. Meaning more realisticly it would be 70 and 70 tops

Use Ebay/PriceWatch/Newegg/Tigerdirect for:

HardDrive: 160gb Samsung 5400 RPM - 99$, 80gbs - less than 60$ (new)
Mini USB Keyboard - 20$ (new)
Ram: 512mb from ebay, less than 40$ (used)
All Software, varies heavily.

Other suggestions, all peripherals are generaly chosen at users discretion, whatever feels best to you, although inparticular, Wireless, flat and small things are generaly best for vehicles.

Monitors are also generaly tailored around your needs, (although i do suggest the 7" Lilliput VGA Touchscreen 300$).
LILLIPUT shipped- 300$,
sacrifice quaility - rca monitor about 150$

When purchasing a HardDrive, make sure to get a 5400rpm!, its the slowest a HD can spin, and the slower the better in an automotive environment (less chance of damage, and much cheaper). OEM 160gb 5400 rpm HD goes for 99$ retail.

Wireless Connection, 802.11g PCI card, or 802.11b with a signal extender, (2.4 to 5.5db aprox.) from radioshack cost 24$
Small USB microphones, good one, 50$
Gps 'mice', are also a nice addition - 40$ with shipping
Cameras (webcam) - 35$

FIRST OFF! Don't let this deter you from making a carpc because the prices seem high, this is a very nice system, and many of these componenets could be easily swapped for cheaper ones, if thats what you wanted. I posted these items, because they were the best of what i could get for my price range, and i thought they were reasonably priced.
Complete Systems

Cheap - 500$
What it includes:
Case, Motherboard, Proccesor, Mounting Unit, Fans, HD, Ram, Keyboard, Inveter, AC PSU, RCA Monitor

Mid - 660$
What it includes:
Case, Motherboard, Proccesor, Mounting Unit, Fans, HD, Ram, Keyboard, DC-DC psu, Rca Monitor

High - 750$
What it includes:
Case, Motherboard, Proccesor, Mounting Unit, Fans, HD, Ram, Keyboard, DC-DC psu, Lilliput Touchscreen Monitor

BareBones: 202$
(which includes, case, motherboard, processor, mountning unit, overly efficeint fans) (120+25+26+4+27)

With Input Devices, HardDrive, Ram: 322$
(which includes, case, motherboard, processor, mountning unit, overly efficeint fans, traveling keyboard, HD, 512mb RAM) (120+25+26+4+27+20+60+40)

before you respond, and say something stupid,
I had all of this info at hand, seeing as i just orderd most of the components, and this was copied from another forum

**frodobaggins** · 08-24-2004, 10:50 PM

OK LET'S TRY THIS AGAIN.
While RogerWilco may be a postwhore ( Well definately) there is no
reason to flame him when he is trying to be helpful. If there is incorrect
or inaccurate information in the post, then correct him with tact and
common sense.

Thanks
Frodo

**Motorcity** · 08-24-2004, 11:07 PM

Understood. But, when you don't know what the **** you are talking about, you have to one to blame but yourself when you get flamed.
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...503#post257503
clearly he is now an auto mechanic as well. Stuff like this deserves to have the **** flamed out of it.

**frodobaggins** · 08-24-2004, 11:12 PM

Originally Posted by Motorcity

Understood. But, when you don't know what the **** you are talking about, you have to one to blame but yourself when you get flamed.
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...503#post257503
clearly he is now an auto mechanic as well. Stuff like this deserves to have the **** flamed out of it.

Well Motorcity, in that thread, he is right. If you remove the air vents, you
will usually seal them up instead of letting them blow air out in your dash.

**Motorcity** · 08-24-2004, 11:25 PM

Originally Posted by frodobaggins

Well Motorcity, in that thread, he is right. If you remove the air vents, you
will usually seal them up instead of letting them blow air out in your dash.

If you say so. The few (very few) dash mods I have done, as well as the shops in Detroit do, I (they) re-direct the air flow to avoid excess air going out the remaining vents. Not just seal them off. Noise is usually a concern to people when they have the heat or a/c cranked up, and blocking off a vent or 2 completely will increase outlet air pressure at the remaining vents, creating added and unwanted noise. My point was, that he seems to have a lot of knowledge about a lot of subjects for only 17 yrs. old. I am sure he has read a lot, but in reality, hands on experience speaks for itself, and one should speak from experience, not just quote text and verse. At his age, he should be out chasing girls and trying to buy beer with a fake ID, not trying to be Consumer's Report, AutoWeek, PC World, and Custom Car rolled up into one.

**frodobaggins** · 08-24-2004, 11:30 PM

Originally Posted by Motorcity

If you say so. The few (very few) dash mods I have done, as well as the shops in Detroit do, I (they) re-direct the air flow to avoid excess air going out the remaining vents. Not just seal them off. Noise is usually a concern to people when they have the heat or a/c cranked up, and blocking off a vent or 2 completely will increase outlet air pressure at the remaining vents, creating added and unwanted noise. My point was, that he seems to have a lot of knowledge about a lot of subjects for only 17 yrs. old. I am sure he has read a lot, but in reality, hands on experience speaks for itself, and one should speak from experience, not just quote text and verse. At his age, he should be out chasing girls and trying to buy beer with a fake ID, not trying to be Consumer's Report, AutoWeek, PC World, and Custom Car rolled up into one.

Well we are kind of off topic but I want to know

(I'll fix it later)
Where do you re-direct it to ? Because I may have to remove my vents.
And I was just going to seal them like a lot of people. But If you have any
ideas ... ?

**Quattro** · 08-24-2004, 11:34 PM

You can redirect the air to the feet, just use some flex pipe and make a outlet at the bottom of the dash.

**djtrickee** · 08-24-2004, 11:48 PM

Originally Posted by Motorcity

hands on experience speaks for itself, and one should speak from experience.

Word. Bird.

**Motorcity** · 08-24-2004, 11:50 PM

Originally Posted by Quattro-A4

You can redirect the air to the feet, just use some flex pipe and make a outlet at the bottom of the dash.

Exactly. or, depending on the car, if the fresh air intake tubes are accessable, flex tube 'em into there. Cars also have what are called body vents, which would exhaust this unused air flow outside the car. They look similar to the body vents you see on the B pillars when you open your door, and look below the striker. these vents exhaust to outside air, and usually are used to bring in fresh air when the heat/ac unit is off, and to equalize inside air pressure when you close a door when the windows are up.