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Thread: Double DIN LCD, and other questions (sanity check)

  1. #11
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    Variable Bitrate Lum's Avatar
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    I've just thought, if this is going to be a drop in head unit replacement, it's going to need an amp of about 4x 20W RMS. Any idea how to build such a thing? I found a few ICs that would do the job but they all need a -12V rail which I have no idea how to acheive cheaply and at the small size needed. Any ideas?

  2. #12
    Maximum Bitrate kiltjim's Avatar
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    You forgot about hard drive, and ram, and all the other cable needed.

    I really don't think you want to put your OPUS in the enclosure. You could put the ATX connector on the outdside of the case. That was it would still be removable, and you could hardwire the radio connections to the OPUS. If you do end up needing the tank circuit, you could always mount that some where else.

    You might be able to get the dongles in there, but you are gonna want to have bluetooth and wifi mounted remotely though. Or at least the antennas.
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  3. #13
    Maximum Bitrate kiltjim's Avatar
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    This fact was brought up before. Mostly, everyone has gone to a seperate amp (like 4x100, or so) or using the line-ins on an existing head-unit. I don't know if you could possibly construct a small amp, something like those found in head units, at least cheaply.

    You also said earlier that you are not a proper electrician. To build an amp of any decent quality and sound quality, you will definetely need some very good design, and the related construction skills.

    I think you may avoid a lot of head aches if you just go with an external amp. You can find some pretty cheap ones, low power at least that have some okay sound quality.
    2000 Subaru OBS

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  4. #14
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    Given the dimensions of the 150W Opus unit, it should, in theory, fit in the enclosure, the 80W one definately will, I have no idea which unit I would need though, bearing in mind I don't mind powering the LCD from the car directly.
    One other problem sprung to mind last night which was the lack of a front/rear fader, so I guess a 4 channel soundcard is going to be needed, does anyone do a USB one of these with a decent onboard DAC?
    The other problem I can see is that line-outs in car audio tend to be at a much higher voltage than the line-outs you would get in a PC, so surely a pre-amp is going to be needed?

    For the hard drives, I was thinking 4 compact flash cards in a Raid0 configuration, assuming I can get the CD drive to work off SATA.

    Lastly is MiniPCI pin compatible with normal PCI, and if so will I be able to get an adaptor so that I can use a normal PCI card with the Nano-ITX board.

  5. #15
    Low Bitrate Vacheron's Avatar
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    I'm not sure if the Scooby dash is configured the same way as Mitsubishis, but my FTO double DIN location is two different widths. The "front fascia panel" clips on to the dash from the front, and is a standard din width. But the area behind the panel (the rack mounts as you refer to them) are slightly wider and very deep.

    In my case, this space is big enough to horizontally mount an entire Travla C134 case to the steel frame behind the DIN slots using a home made bracket, and the LCD panel can be mouted directly to the "front fascia panel" and clipped into position last.

    I am also using the LinITX LCD you referred to, and although LCD unit is higher and narower than a standard Double DIN space, the seatback mounting frame included with the LCD is a very close fit if mounted from behind the "front fascia panel" .

    This "should" (still in semi completion ) allow everything to fit in or behind the double DIN locations (Screen, pc, & power supply).
    The only external component will be the existing amplifier which is already located in the boot from my previous install.

    This may not be anything like the situation in your Scooby, but my experience with other UK imports has shown that Japanese Dashboard DIN layouts do tend to be fairly similar in design.

    If there is a similarity I can post some pics of what I am currently attempting when get home tonight.

    Vach.

  6. #16
    Maximum Bitrate kiltjim's Avatar
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    How big are the CF cards going to be? Where are you going to store your music in other words?

    The front rear fader is one reason I kept my exisiting head unit. I don't have to worry about opening some appliaction on my computer to gain access to this stuff. If I could find a dedicated EQ, or sound peripheral, I would drop the head unit. But its still the cheapest alternative.
    2000 Subaru OBS

    Dell P3 @ 900 Mhz
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    I am Zero Bitrate....

  7. #17
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    I would love to see pitcures of the FTO install as I am sure it will be similar.
    On the Legacy there is a removeable cage, it appears to have a bottom and two sides and keeps it's shape by having the climate control unit in the very top poisiton. The dashboard trim just pulls off giving direct access to the cage, and the existing audio kit simply protrudes forwards a bit to line up with the dashboard, there are no clip on front facias or anything like that as you find on UK cars.
    My current Sony head unit turned out to be a japanese design unit that had been bodged to fit UK mounts, it was supplied with two screw on clips that go into the japanese standard screw holes, a push in cage and a clip on dashboard surround that never stayed on right. Once all this cack was removed it fit in the Legacy perfectly and looked a lot better.

    This, compined with the sheer height of the Legacy cage is why I am referring to it as rack mount, it reminds me of server rooms or professional mixing and effects gear.

    I'd post pics but my car still isn't fixed.

    Perhaps I should get a cheap Radio/Casette with a line in and put that in the 3rd din?

    Edit: has anyone hacked the Alpine CD Changer interface as there is an alpine head unit floating around here somewhere.

    Edit2: Any with SP/DIF in?

  8. #18
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    I'm not entirely sure this is even what you're looking for. But I am also a Subaru owner (though my steering wheel is on the left) and I'm planning on using this guy (http://www.tmz.com/wrx/bezel.html) He will use a lilliput screen and built it into a double-din spacing (Subaru-specific). I've heard good things from people who have gotten this from him, but I have no personal experience.
    Just thought it might be something you could consider or grab some ideas from.

  9. #19
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    That looks like the kind of thing I was looking to build, however given the size of his unit, it looks like I've underestimated the size of the screen and will not be able to fit screen and slot loading CD into a double DIN

    I suppose if I can get a fully functional computer into the double DIN then that will meet the design goal. His pics look like the motherboard is on the base of his chassis.

    On the power front, the combination of the Carnetix power regulator with a 200W power supply board seems like it may be a better route to go down as this setup will completely kill power to the board when the car is off and I should be able to make it all fit internally. The +5V output looks useful too, presumably if I put a USB connector on the back of my unit, I can just hook it to this output rather than the motherboard +5v and then I can use it to power a USB hub. Does anyone even make a USB hub designed for internal use, with a molex connector etc?

  10. #20
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    Ok, I've now had the time to have a good look at that guy's page.
    It turns out that due to the exchange rate at the moment, I can buy a fully assembled Liliput screen + cage and get it shipped from the US for not much more than the screen is going to cost me by itself over here, and it looks like he has motherboard mounts on there too!

    All I need to do now is crack the problems of the amplifier and the hard disc mounts and I can go ahead.

    The other advantage of using his cage is that I can assume it will fit and can start work before I get my car back from being fixed.

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