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Thread: Double DIN LCD, and other questions (sanity check)

  1. #21
    Lum
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    Well, I think I have my game plan sorted.

    Stage one of the project will consist of:
    double DIN cage and screen
    Nehemiah M10000 motherboard
    80gig 2.5" HD
    I don't know whether to go for the Opus, or a Carnetix+Plug-in board combination. The Opus would be smaller, but the Carnetix can kill the power completely after shutdown.
    I then just need to add an Autoleads PC7-100 box to my Sony head unit to enable the RCAs, and get a complete working solution.

    Stage 1.5:
    Add USB wifi and bluetooth if I feel like it. Get the Origin B2 GPS hooked up and working.

    Stage 2:
    Try to fit a small cheap amplifier PCB into the system so that it is fully standalone. A USB radio receiver will be needed at this point too. If I build eveything small enough height-wise then this amplifier will just about squeeze in if I unsolder the RCAs and wire directly to the amp.

    Stage 3:
    Construct some kind of USB breakout box in a Single DIN enclosure, most likely a USB hub with a slot loading CD drive, card reader, floppy drive, a couple of front mounted USB ports, as well as passthrough cables for ethernet, PS2, serial etc. I can probably just cut holes into a single DIN blanking pate to get this to fit. I then need to figure out how to get Media Car to deal with all these different drives as potential music sources.

    Any chance I can get another quick sanity check before I start buying bits for stage 1?

  2. #22
    MySQL Error Scouse Monkey's Avatar
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    Lun, haven't read all your posts but i got a few suggestions:

    Have you looked at the M1-ATX PSU from the mp3car site (or linITX has it soon for 50 or summit - guys from linITX, any chance on a cheap opus for recommending you to people) Have heard lots of good things from people who have got the M1 from the mp3car site. its 90W and has nice low input voltage for crank and good shutdown options.

    As for the enabling the RCAs on your sony, where are oyu gettign that autoleads box from? I have seen it for about 44. I am building a unilink box that enables the aux ports and also allows you to control your PC from the HU and will hopefully send the track data to the HU screen. Jsut starting to build it now as i have located my PIC programmer and got an XR-C9100R off ebay.

    Where in Liverpool are you from?

    Nice car btw- saving for an Impreza.

    Andy

    EDIT you can build a simple circuit to kill the power after shutdown using a relay powered by the ign AND the PSU itself. Easy peasy.

  3. #23
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    Hey, if you run the power lead to the opus through some sort of manual switch somewhere in the dash, you can just flick it off when you're leaving the car for any significant amount of time to ensure no power drain. Probably not necessary even for overnight visits, but if you're leaving town for a few days it might not be a bad idea.

  4. #24
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    Why flick a switch when your opus can do it for you?

    As i said have the relay in line with the opus powered by both the ign line and the opus itself - (or use 2 relays to be safe) - then when the ign comes on the opus comes on and then the opus turns off it kills the power. I don't think there is an issue witht he ign line already being live when the supply is turned on but it has been discussed before. Anyone using this setup and confirm it works? It this is a problem, add a seond relay to complete the ign line into the opus after the 1st relay has clicked.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse Monkey
    Lun, haven't read all your posts but i got a few suggestions:

    Have you looked at the M1-ATX PSU from the mp3car site (or linITX has it soon for 50 or summit - guys from linITX, any chance on a cheap opus for recommending you to people) Have heard lots of good things from people who have got the M1 from the mp3car site. its 90W and has nice low input voltage for crank and good shutdown options.
    The M1 looks functionally equivalent to the Opus and a similar size, except the user manual seemed to imply that you can make it do a proper power cut (then GhostScript crashed, it doesn't like that PDF very much) if this is the case then it's an ideal solution, assuming the dimensions are similar to the Opus, thank you for pointing it out to me as I didn't know it existed. What are the dimensions of this board?

    As for the enabling the RCAs on your sony, where are oyu gettign that autoleads box from? I have seen it for about 44. I am building a unilink box that enables the aux ports and also allows you to control your PC from the HU and will hopefully send the track data to the HU screen. Jsut starting to build it now as i have located my PIC programmer and got an XR-C9100R off ebay.
    I'll probably just pop down to a local car audio store for that to save on the shipping. Your project sounds interesting but as the headunit is only a stop-gap solution it's not a route I'll be going down.. OTOH if you know how to enable the RCAs for less than 44 quid then I'm very interested especially if it just involves joining two pins together.
    Where in Liverpool are you from?

    Nice car btw- saving for an Impreza.
    I'm from Wavertree, but I'm currently spending more time at my GFs, recovering from the crash, back to work on Monday
    I did originally want an Impreza but then I remembered what it was like when I had a sporty Escort, scallys in Novas constantly wanting to have a go, police assuming I was the same and doing non-random spot checks, and then it eventually got nicked. The Legacy is nice and anonymous and amazingly fast, the second turbo really makes a difference to low end torque and having a tiptronic box is nice for good upshifts, and no-one gives you a second glance. Perfect for Liverpool.

    EDIT you can build a simple circuit to kill the power after shutdown using a relay powered by the ign AND the PSU itself. Easy peasy.
    I'm lazy.. if the PSU does it for me I'll get that PSU

    Oh and to respont to Maxxell's suggestion, yes that would work perfectly but it only needs me to forget to do it once, most likely when I'm doing a week-long on-site installation and flatten my battery when I really want to go home, much better to automate things that can be automated rather than rely on stupid users to get it right (can you guess I work in IT?

    Edit: I've just read your description of the relay-based power killer, something like this:

    Edit2: Included diodes described below
    Code:
        +----+    /          +----+
        |Opus|---o o---------|Batt|
      +-|    | E-nnn---+--+  +-----   /
      | +----+         |  +----|<----o o-- 
      +--12V for HD->|-+      Accessory Circuit
      
          Key
      
       /
      o o  -  Switch
      ->|- - Diode
      E    - Earth
      nnn  -  The coil bit of a relay
    That way if the PSU is on, it keeps itself on, and as soon as the PC shuts down, it signals the PSU to switch off the harddrives and stuff which inturn isolates it from the battery and the only way you and unisolate it is to turn the accessory circuit on. Bloody genius!

  6. #26
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    Uhh... relays? See, my switch solution works for those of us that just want a simple way of making sure there will be no trickle drain of the battery for long-term trips away from the car. (or short-term if you want to remember to flick it on and off every time you get out, but that's probably mostly a waste because the opus *should* cut the power when you turn off the car)
    Honestly, if there were no intelligence to the OPUS, just turning off the computer *should* save your battery. The OPUS *should* kick in an automatic power-kill after a set period of time. Now the switch would only be to make sure, just in case BOTH the computer hangs and doesn't shut down properly AND the opus hiccups and doesn't shut down the computer. Overkill? Possibly. But if I am parking my car somewhere new and I REALLY dont want to have a dead battery, I'll flick the switch just to be sure.
    Plus, I'm going to get one of those switches you see in airplanes for dropping bombs and label it NOS. There's always the show-off factor in these projects... am I wrong?

  7. #27
    MySQL Error Scouse Monkey's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear about the crash.
    As for the M1-ATX, it is a lot cheaper than the opus (so you can but me a beer next time i visit my Nan). PCB size is 160x45mm and height is less than 1inch from http://www.mp3car.com/products/M1-ATX/M1-ATX-specs.pdf

    It also has a deep sleep function that cuts power when your battery gets to a certain level. not sure if this can just be made default.

    As for the Legacy - sorry to hear about the crash! Nice car - would be tempted as i want something 4WD but i think it's too big. I want one of the latest shape Impreza WRXs (preferably SL) as it has lost some it's boy racer appeal as it has grown up and they can be got for an absolute steal for the power and reliability you get. Will be looking in about 8 months or so if all goes to plan.

    And the sony unilink thing - price will be much, much less than 44! look up gnunilink (www.soundforge.gnunilink.net - i think) on google and this forum. The basic device is a few caps, resistors, tranistors and a PIC that you plug into your headunit. Am gonna start ordering bits this week. My only problem is getting a connector. hold off on the adapter for as long as you can and i will let you know if i have any luck - you don't have a spare changer cable lying around do you???

    Also have you looked at the 1.2ghz epia? might give you a little bit more power but i don't know a lot about epias so ask around.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxxell
    just want a simple ....
    Simple???? bahhhh! no way. Simple is just too easy. Besides my Pc takes a few minutes to shut down - not hanging around for it! I suppose an 'easy and simple' and automatic way would be to use a bathroom extractor fan circuit that would charge a capacitor and then kill it after it has run out - that is pretty fool proof.

  9. #29
    Lum
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    Well a couple of things, I spoke to my GF who is better at electronics than me. The technique you describe is called a Feedback Loop and will work fine, only it needs a couple of diodes to stop the ATX devices from receiving 14.v volts!

    I have decided on the M1 though as a thought just occured, potential problem with the Feedback Loop method is that if Windows crashes on shutdown your battery will be flat very very quickly, and Windows is good at crashing on shutdown!

    The unilink stuff looks interesting, but I don't have anything to program a micro controller, which is going to push the cost up. I also don't need to be able to control the display or have the buttons work when it's a temporary fix.
    The irony is I have a CDX-MP30, it already does MP3s! therefore I never bothered with a CD changer. I think Autoleads do one, but then that will be expensive and I may as well buy the box.

    The 1.2GHz board may be an option, it's 40 quid more expensive, but firewire could be good for the DVD drive, separate bus from any of the other cack I'm going to have installed in the future. I've heard reports about bandwidth issues with USB DVD and sound.
    OTOH I could just run an IDE cable and get the cheaper board!

  10. #30
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    Lum,

    A total newbie here, just wanted to say you are doing exactly what i was thinking of doing in a wrx!! Very interesting reading, hows it going?? Have you ordered any parts yet?

    Are you a scoobynet member??

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