need to hook up lcd screen

**XC-C30** · 10-08-2006, 03:37 PM

Originally Posted by Wiredwrx

Look at www.the12volt.vom

Michael

this might work a little better than the specified link above

**Wiredwrx** · 10-08-2006, 05:29 PM

Originally Posted by IC-C30

this might work a little better than the specified link above

Oooops, corrected.

Michael

**tn6478** · 10-08-2006, 09:54 PM

Originally Posted by Wiredwrx

Don't listen to him. Do not take power from the cigarrette lighter. Lighter circuits are most often fused at 10 amps MAX. That means it can safely handle 6 or so amps. Your system will probably draw more then that. Of course, you still want to use your phone charger and things like that.

You need to run to the battery. The FAQ refers to DC-DC PSs. This is a CARPUTER forum, something which the playstation is not. You therefore have to modify the system a little.

Read how to use a Relay. Look at www.the12volt.com

Michael

He wanted to do something simple so I gave him a simple suggestion.

**XC-C30** · 10-09-2006, 01:22 AM

Originally Posted by tn6478

He wanted to do something simple so I gave him a simple suggestion.

yeah, but not a good one, so you're not helping the guy at all...

**Bugbyte** · 10-09-2006, 11:26 PM

Right. Here's what you need to know. Like Wired said, find out how much power the combination of Playstation and monitor draws. That is, add up the amperage.

This information is on the power supply for the Playstation and it ought to be in the specs for the screen.

In my car, the little cover over the cigarette lighter says "110 watts max". Watts = Amps X voltage. Your car puts out about 14 volts when running, so my cigarette lighter can handle about 7 amps of draw.

If you try to pull more than the rated amount, one of two things will happen, possibly both at the same time. Either the fuse will blow or you will begin to smell and perhaps see smoke underneath your dashboard. If you are really unlucky, before the fuse blows you will ignites something flammable in your dash and possibly burn the car up.

NOW. The reason that happens is because the wires to your cigarette lighter aren't thick enough. Wire thickness is referred to as gauge. Going back to your power draw, if you can't comfortably use your cigarette plug, you'll have need thicker gauge wires to wire around it and THAT'S why you need to go straight to the battery. There is a FAQ in the FAQ emporium that explains how to properly gauge your wiring. (My guess is that a playstation will do just find with 8 gauge wiring but I could be wrong about that.) No harm in going a gauge higher just to be safe and thus the reason some have suggested to you that you use 4 gauge wire.

As Wired suggested, find a relay that is rated at the proper amperage to switch the power on and off by wiring the trigger line to the accessory switch of your car.

**noomski** · 10-11-2006, 12:34 PM

Hi guys,

I've been away for a few days, so sorry for no replies, but before I left I did manage to get the screen and the xbox to work by taking power from the stereo power line. (I ditched the ps2 for a modded xbox instead).

I put a 10 amp fuse between the stereo power wire and the screen and the same for the inverter.

I've run the screen and the stereo simultaneously for a few hours and the cables stay perfectly cool. The monitor has incredibly thin guage wire for power and ground so i'm guessing that it draws very little power.

I've also run the xbox on it's own, without the stereo or screen, and it also stayed on continuously without the cables getting hot. However I haven't tried to run the stereo, xbox and screen at the same time. Yet.........!

The screen is: http://www.veba.uk.com/productsNew/av70mbs.html Power consumption by the screen is 10W (12v / 0.84A)

The inverter is: http://www.veba.uk.com/productsNew/avpips2.html (12V DC in and 240V AC out)

The xbox power specs are:

* Operational power consumption
* 100 Watt

* Power device frequency required
* 60 Hz

* Voltage Required
* ± 10% 60 Hz

The monitor has incredibly thin guage wire for power and ground so i'm guessing that it draws very little power.

Would you say that the stereo power cable is gonna burn when I turn all three devices on (xbox, screen, stereo) and also is the cable likeley to get hotter, ie draw more power, when I turn the volume up high?

Many thanks for your input guys - it's greatly appreciated,

Mike

**Wiredwrx** · 10-11-2006, 12:58 PM

Stop being lazy and cheap. The stereo wires in the car are designed to power the stereo ONLY. You are taking a big risk by overloading it with all you equipment.

Do it right, or don't do it. Doing it wrong can very easily lead to "crispy car syndrome"

Michael

**Shidoken** · 10-11-2006, 02:54 PM

Yeah

For me, I'd put a direct power line from the battery have a distribution block that splits into 2 for your screen and the playstation/xbox. Doing it this way lets you put in a fuse for each one depending on what voltage/amp you need. You'll have to ground your screen and playstation/xbox too. After that, you can put an ignition switch/line by either going from your keyhole ignition(next to your driver's wheel) or hacking up your fuse box. There should be a manual for this in your car.. or there's a layout on your fuse box cover to tell you which one is your ignition fuse.

**noomski** · 10-11-2006, 04:58 PM

Ok folks I'm sold. I'm gonna do what you say and run a 4 guage wire directly from the battery to a distribution block ( is one like this ok: http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...s_id/2758.html ? )

Now the bit I'm struggling with is when the power is coming directly from the battery how do I get it to turn on and off with the ignition? BugByte said to get a relay that matches the amperage, how do I work out what amperage relay I'll need, and how does the relay function. Are there any tutorials you could point me to where I can read up a bit more about fitting a relay to the ignition?

Shidoken you say that I'll need to run a wire from the ignition do do this. Are you both talking about the same method here 'cause I'm a little confused about this bit.

Many thanks people - I'm sorry for sounding thick but a week ago I knew nothing whatsoever about car electrics.

Mike

**Wiredwrx** · 10-11-2006, 05:10 PM

Originally Posted by noomski

Ok folks I'm sold. I'm gonna do what you say and run a 4 guage wire directly from the battery to a distribution block ( is one like this ok: http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...s_id/2758.html ? )

Now the bit I'm struggling with is when the power is coming directly from the battery how do I get it to turn on and off with the ignition? BugByte said to get a relay that matches the amperage, how do I work out what amperage relay I'll need, and how does the relay function. Are there any tutorials you could point me to where I can read up a bit more about fitting a relay to the ignition?

Shidoken you say that I'll need to run a wire from the ignition do do this. Are you both talking about the same method here 'cause I'm a little confused about this bit.

Many thanks people - I'm sorry for sounding thick but a week ago I knew nothing whatsoever about car electrics.

Mike

That Distro Block is fine.

The relay must have an amp rating above what you will need. Since you will need about 10 amps (give or take) you need a relay that has an amp rating of 10 or more amps. Most auto relays are 30 amp, so you should have no issues.

need to hook up lcd screen

Michael