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Thread: Flickering when using car pc power...

  1. #1
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    Flickering when using car pc power...

    well today i installed my car pc ..

    base parts are...

    VIA EPIA M10000 Nehemiah
    M2-ATX - 160W Intelligent Car PSU
    Kingston 1000MB PC2100 266MHz DDR DIMM

    well i managed to get the whole thing working fin throught my touch screen moniter whilst running the power from an in door pc power supply....

    yet when i turned it over to run from the car pc psu... i got flickering on the screen and when i went to touch the screen in went blank and i herd a loud boom..


    does any one no where iam going wrong of have i fogot to do something...


    in one of the manual it sez for me to put a 2 pin wire from j6 on the psu to the remote turn on on the amps to cut the boom sound down when the computer starts up.. but y does the screen flicker and go blank... ????


    any help much gr8ful..

    Richard...

  2. #2
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    what is your PSU??? supply us with more info

  3. #3
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    as stated abuve...

    M2-ATX - 160W Intelligent Car PSU
    http://linitx.com/product_info.php?c...roducts_id=917

  4. #4
    Variable Bitrate
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    Besides that why do you need so much power (m1 is far than enough...)

    1. Everything is OK, when you run your system at home on the desk.
    What supplies your monitor in that case? An AC/DC adaptor?
    2. Problems start after you have assembled it into the car
    OR
    does it happenned on the same desk with your pc car PSU?

    What was the source of power for the car PSU and the m2-atx?
    If it happenned in the car, the engine was running or not?

    Have you problems just with the monitor or did the computer also show symptoms of malfunction? Try it with a normal monitor to reveal.

    Try to run your M2-atx from 12V of a standard PC PSU.
    If you have possibility, measure the voltages on EACH pins of the ATX connector.
    Try to run the engine/stop the engine. Does it change?

    Try to localise the possible source of problem, because perhaps you have to send back that part of your new system that is bad...

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbalazs View Post
    Besides that why do you need so much power (m1 is far than enough...)

    1. Everything is OK, when you run your system at home on the desk.
    What supplies your monitor in that case? An AC/DC adaptor?
    2. Problems start after you have assembled it into the car
    OR
    does it happenned on the same desk with your pc car PSU?

    What was the source of power for the car PSU and the m2-atx?
    If it happenned in the car, the engine was running or not?

    Have you problems just with the monitor or did the computer also show symptoms of malfunction? Try it with a normal monitor to reveal.

    Try to run your M2-atx from 12V of a standard PC PSU.
    If you have possibility, measure the voltages on EACH pins of the ATX connector.
    Try to run the engine/stop the engine. Does it change?

    Try to localise the possible source of problem, because perhaps you have to send back that part of your new system that is bad...

    my headunit runs power of the back of the cigerret lighter and is earthed there to yet the remote wire fromt he head unit is atteached to the after ignition live wire there 2...

    as for the boot.. i run a power cable from the battery to distribution block in the boot were it devides off into... a the psu, b amp one, and c amp 2.

    when i removed the M2-atx and ran it from the car using the main power home psu. just the motherboard and headunit it worked fin..

    so then i put it to the cars psu and then wired up the remaining remote turn ons for the amps and i think that when the head unit started to flicker... when i had evrything running... ????

  6. #6
    Variable Bitrate
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    A common ground is much more important than a common +12V.
    You mean the monitor as 'head unit'?
    In your car, first try to pull out the amps. What happenned with m2 or ATX?

    I think that system is useless now. Try to disassemble ALL the parts, move it into your room. Then assemble all the parts. Set the loudness low.
    Run it from a simple PC PSU. They are capable of 8-10A of 12V, but sometimes need a load on the 5 or 3.3V wire. Use a 5-25W automotive bulb.

    Try to skip just a part, one by one. This way of troubleshooting will reveal the responsible part.

    According to my (blind) opinion the problem is somewhere around the cabling. I suggest to attach all the grounds to the same point.
    Experts in the forum are strongly against that cig lighter as a source of power...

  7. #7
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    Good work getting an M2, leave yourself heaps of room for upgrading, very brainy.

    Definetly pull out the Car PSU and put in your Home PSU. Still do it? the problem is something else, flickering screen and a boom. Does the boom only happen when its starting up? Or later on.

    How is the screen flickering? just colours changes or black flickers and loosing signal?

    Let us know

  8. #8
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    ryt just had a look and i have hopefully sorted out the boom as i have taken away the amps at the mo.... so far so good......

    now the computer loads up....it fine until it reaches the windows loading screen then all hell breaks loose. its only then that the flickering and colour distortion happens.... plus when windoes has loaded when i press the screen sometimes the screen goes blank and the colours change... could this be the problem....

  9. #9
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    OK, and when the windows is finally loaded, does the flicker and other bad thing disappear?
    Try to set the resolution to low (start with 640x480, then 800x600). Reduce the color depth also. Does anything change?
    Try to reduce the refresh rate.

    Check the BIOS. Is the CRT the only one? (and not CRT+TV or CRT+LCD)???

  10. #10
    xgc
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    Hi Wixy, How did you wire your touchscreen to the m-2? Sounds like you may have fried something in there. Have you tried everything on another monitor? If so how did it do?

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