Remote Start and Park/Neutral Position Switch Problem

**PatO** · 01-15-2005, 02:58 PM

I had a Valet remote starter installed shortly before Xmas. About 2 weeks later, the check engine light turned on. I brought it to a shop and paid a guy $40 to read the codes:
P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1899 - Park/Neutral Position Switch stuck in Park or In Gear
I pulled out the install manual (which I asked the installer for - and he gave me) and it looks like the starter taps into the position switch so that it doesn't start the car while in gear.
Just for kicks, I put the car in neutral, then started it - yup, she started. Not that this a bad, I simply don't want the bright orange Check Engine light on all the time.

So, how do I fix it? Does anyone know what to look for? My guess is that the position switch is under the shifter in the center console - I just don't want to spend a half hour tearing the thing apart if it's not there.

And, why would it suddenly go bad after 2 weeks with no problems?

I called the installer up and he'll be able to take a look at it on Tuesday. I have a long weekend and a heated garage, so I'm hoping I can save the trip...

**ACHIEVER** · 01-15-2005, 07:19 PM

It sounds like you had the starter installed professionally. If that's the case, the install itself along with the remote starter should be under warranty. In fact most installs carry a lifetime warranty, because if done properly the likely hood of failure is very small. The device itself fails far before the wiring to it. Of course remote starter usually has a rather limited warranty. But one way of the shop getting out of that lifetime warranty on the install is if they can legitimately claim that you tampered with their work.
In other words DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FIX IT YOURSELF. Not first anyway. Let them right the wrong like they should. It actually protects both of you to do so. If you can't get the work done free(not a warranty on install or whatever) only then get your own hands dirty.
I would guess that the switch itself is not the problem. But rather the new wiring to it. The splice. This may be a very simple fix. Wouldn't that be a nice change.

**PatO** · 01-15-2005, 08:09 PM

Very good points...
I did get it professionally installed (it's a Clifford), and have a lifetime warranty on the parts, I'm not sure how long the install warranty is good for, but I've only had it a month.

I assume that the wiring went bad somewhere or they knocked the switch out of place. But, it doesn't look like they removed the center console which hides the switch - they probably have the color codes and spliced in under the dash. What intregues me is that they most likely just tapped into the switch circuit - why would they need to break the switch wire in an attempt to override the functionality? And if all they did was to tap into the wire, why did it go bad?

Does the new tap pull too much current - resulting in a fried switch or computer? If they didn't remove the console, the switch probably wouldn't have been knocked loose... It's really a conundrum. I'm more curious about it than worried - perhaps I'll snoop around a little more, but being that I don't have wiring schematics for the switch, I don't think I'll touch anything...

**PatO** · 01-18-2005, 07:21 PM

Took it to the shop and the guy looked over the wiring but found nothing... I left the computer installed, and he liked the setup. However the second batt ****ed him off when he unplugged the main battery and the dome light stayed on! Highly suggested I go with a cap rather than a tank. I think I'll just put a warning lable on the main battery.

Which brings up a good idea - if you take your car in for service, it's probably a good idea to leave a wiring schematic under the hood so you don't **** off your mechanic.

At any rate, I guess I get to take it to the dealer now...

**PatO** · 01-27-2005, 08:23 PM

For those of you who care (or are too bored to do anything else), I found out what the problem was!

Took it to the local Jeep dealer and at noon on day one they called me up and said the Park/Neutral switch was bad. And that the switch cost $400 ($600 installed)!!!! They had to order it, but would have it installed by the end of the day.

End of day comes, they call and say the switch didn't fix it. Good for me, but bad because I have to keep driving my 'rents car for another day (missed my baby). They also asked me what the second battery was for and why I have a bundle of wires running all over the car! (remind me to make a circuit diagram for the carputer).

At 1pm today, they called and said the remote starter was tapped into the park/neutral circuit and was pulling too many amps off the wire - causing the computer to malfunction!!! So, I called the installer, who called the dealer to figure out the details. The final bill came to $315, which the installer will reimburse me for!

Bad part is that the installer is Ultimate Electronics, which just filed for bankruptcy. I guess we'll see what happens when I have a chat with their manager tomorrow...

They'll be repairing the starter (probably a bad relay - but it's a Clifford) next week.

**antimatter** · 01-28-2005, 01:53 AM

THey should also reimburse you for the 40 dollar OBD read

**Scouse Monkey** · 01-28-2005, 04:53 AM

no wonder hey went bust! take payment in tools if they have any cool stuff

**iceman1001** · 12-14-2009, 09:34 AM

Hi PatO

I had a remote start and Alarm also installed and i also have the check engine light On and when i got the diagnostics done it came with the same code P0705
This is a toyota Highlander.
Can you please tell me whats the ultimate fix so i can proceed correctly on this. do i need to get that wire tapping into the park sensor circuitry removed or should i need a better relay?

"called and said the remote starter was tapped into the park/neutral circuit and was pulling too many amps off the wire - causing the computer to malfunction!!! So, I called the installer, who called the dealer to figure out the details. The final bill came to $315, which the installer will reimburse me for!"
so what was required to be done to have the installation not pull too many amps?
Pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee Help.

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