Thread: How do you like my Home Made Generator

I'd rather clear-coat it first so it didn't smell.

Here is the alternator wiring for my generator

its a CS-130 Alternator from a 89 chevy S10
with a PLFS plug - head here for a service
manual

Originally Posted by port20

nice job

I'm planning to do the same thing but DC only for powering my system at car shows

I thought you might want to know that an alternator wont make any more power after 2500 rpm so if you keep the engine at 2500 rpm you will still get max power and save a lot of gas

my setup is going to have an electric start 2 stroke pocket bike motor

I am looking for a controller that will sense when the voltage drops below 10.5v and will send a + or - pulse to a remote start unit so the generator will start by itself when it is needed

does anyone know where I can find such a device?

I found some thing that might work

Battery Alarm & Control

I decided to use the Iceberg modded alternator as a welder
and just got remanufactured alternator for the Generator

the Iceberg kit had six 50amp diodes - My thinking is that
I could get 150amps max with it - the norm is six 35amp
diodes from the factory - 3 diodes for positive,
3 diodes for negative

Here are a few links on how to make a alternator into a welder

Jon's Jeep On-Board Welder Page

BUILD A $20 PORTABLE DC ARC WELDER

How to make a Homemade Tig Welder

Homebrew Gasoline Engine-Powered Welder

I will make a test rig first just to see waht it can do
using a old 5hp tiller motor and the alternator/welder

Here is my Generator all done

Originally Posted by will1384

I found some thing that might work

Battery Alarm & Control

Thanks for the info it might work

Originally Posted by will1384

I have been thinking about that - I was looking into
a Zena welder

I was going to use it with a 14.5hp briggs motor from a old
garden tractor, - Its a 150amp welder with a 100% duty cycle

Hey, if you've got the cash, go for it! My rig was built from a 6.5 HP lawnmower engine I picked up for free (all it needed was a fresh tank of gas, a carb cleaning, and a new spark plug) and a 130A Ford alternator I picked up at the local junk yard for $20. Ford alternators are preferred because many of them have external regulators so you don't even need to bother with opening them up until you blow the diodes. So far, even that hasn't been a problem with just the 6.5 HP engine. I'd like to find a riding mower with a 12-16 HP engine, but these are a little more difficult to pick up free in nearly-running condition.

What really makes my rig somewhat special is that I'm using a microcontroller and a large MOSFET to regulate the field current. The primary purpose of this is to provide a proper charge control for a bank of deep cycle batteries, and the system will kill the engine when the batteries have completed charging. Eventually, I want to put a servo/stepper on the throttle to save gas, and add the ability to shut down after the bulk absorption phase and leave the final topping-off charge to be handled with a small solar array.

-p.

Originally Posted by gnomad

What really makes my rig somewhat special is that I'm using a microcontroller and a large MOSFET to regulate the field current. The primary purpose of this is to provide a proper charge control for a bank of deep cycle batteries, and the system will kill the engine when the batteries have completed charging. -p.

are you using a PIC microcontroller if you are would you mind sending me the .asm file for it

I am trying to expand my PIC programing skills and looking at your code would help me to learn what works and what dosen't work
port20@socal.rr.com

Originally Posted by gnomad

Hey, if you've got the cash, go for it! My rig was built from a 6.5 HP lawnmower engine I picked up for free (all it needed was a fresh tank of gas, a carb cleaning, and a new spark plug) and a 130A Ford alternator I picked up at the local junk yard for $20. Ford alternators are preferred because many of them have external regulators so you don't even need to bother with opening them up until you blow the diodes. So far, even that hasn't been a problem with just the 6.5 HP engine. I'd like to find a riding mower with a 12-16 HP engine, but these are a little more difficult to pick up free in nearly-running condition.

What really makes my rig somewhat special is that I'm using a microcontroller and a large MOSFET to regulate the field current. The primary purpose of this is to provide a proper charge control for a bank of deep cycle batteries, and the system will kill the engine when the batteries have completed charging. Eventually, I want to put a servo/stepper on the throttle to save gas, and add the ability to shut down after the bulk absorption phase and leave the final topping-off charge to be handled with a small solar array.

-p.

I have a 14.5hp key start briggs - It was my ridding lawn tractor
few years ago - one day I was mowing grass and the rear-end
just fell apart, I felt the tractor drop down - and look to see both
tires had fell off - it only had about 2 years of use - maybe 50 hours
at most of use - had a lot of problems with the tractor - things falling
off - I guess the stock boy had fun putting it together

Right now - I am just going to test with my converted alternator -
I want to see a alternator weld before I spend $400 on a welder
that looks like a alternator - I need a welder - my old sears
230v stick welder - its worn out - has a short duty
cycle, ect, ect, - Have to turn it up all the way just to get it
to do any thing, even using the smaller rods, I have got a old
5hp gocart motor that smokes real bad - and am going to
weld a bracket in the morning for both alternators, one for
welding one to charge the battery

here is a few ideas - I am thinking about,
the center alternator has a duel pulley,
and I will be using turn buckles to tighten
the belt - Its 3am me tired me go bed now