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Thread: MP3car at Hot Import Nights

  1. #41
    Variable Bitrate
    Join Date
    Nov 1999


    Ouch! "Can't we all just get along?"
    Lets stop this already, no need for fighting. Goodtimes we should have yes?
    1964 Ford Falcon powered by a 1993 Mustang 5.0 EFI, AOD transmission, with disc brakes up front and more mechanical goodies
    The Player
    Gone! Soon goign to repalce the screen based system i HAD with an iPod.

  2. #42
    Maximum Bitrate Meatballman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Hartsville, SC


    I'm not sure what you're so ****ed about James, but all the hostility isn't getting you anywhere. Calm down and say what you want to say without personally attacking anyone.

  3. #43
    Constant Bitrate
    Join Date
    Jul 2000


    Originally posted by JamesB:
    <STRONG>It amazes me that you automatically assume that I know nothing about the specifics of a rotary engine.

    Hmm well I know the very basics of a rotary engine and I would agree with Aaron this is a MP3 CAR forums not a engine mod forums the knowledge assumed here wouldn't be on engines but computers and such. Hell I don't know **** about piston engines and my father rebuilt them for a living. (ok I know more than I will tell the rest of the world) There was no use in attacking Aaron on this from what I read it looks like Aaron knows what he is doing with his car, let him have his fun it is his car to start with.

    my $0.02 cents (value is based on the intelligence of the person reading this message)

  4. #44
    Retired Admin Aaron Cake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2000
    London, Ontario, Canada


    Originally posted by JamesB:
    It amazes me that you automatically assume that I know nothing about the specifics of a rotary engine.
    I assume that with everybody, because quite frankly, it's rather true. Don't take it personally.

    What bothers me more is that you assume that just because there is no full-on "kit" for turboing a N/A engine .. that it can't be done with aftermarket parts.
    I know that it can be done with aftermarket parts, I just chose not to. I don't see the point of putting an aftermarket turbo on since the engine is not designed for high boost anyway. I'm not looking to go crazy fast here, just enough boost to have an edge on most mildly modified cars. And I want to do it for the experimental value. I will be using an aftermarket BOV and fuel controller.

    As per the ECU .. you will definately benefit more from a custom ECU than a boost controller, fuel management system, braking controller, etc. The ECU will work in unison to form a more broad PCM (power-train control module)
    I will not be replacing the stock ECU. More than likely I will be installing a SuperAFC to take care of the fuel. Ignition retard will be handled by the Crane unit I already have installed. As far as boost controller goes, I am unsure of that yet. Boost controllers cannot lower boost, only increase it. I will have to wait until things are done before I can make judgements as to whether I can turn the boost up or not.

    As per the specifics of your "chop-shop" tools, how do you intend on tapping the engine coolant for the turbine (or do you not intend to do so) .. how about the oil feed?
    Chop shop, ouch. I assure you that I know exactly what I am doing by hybridizing this engine, and it is not a "chop-shop" operation. Coolent will be supplied by a heater hose that runs right by the exhaust manifold. The coolent passages in the turbo are of the same diameter, so the turbo unit can simply be connected in series by splitting the line. As for oil, it will be tapped off the oil cooler lines, which run on the other side of the engine. Custom hoses made by a local hydraulic shop will take care of that.

    Whatever your level of knowledge, I hope you enjoy your self-mod turbo. Just plan on having another engine sitting in a crate ready to be swapped in.
    Oh, I know I will enjoy it. And I know I will blow the engine. Those are two things I have realised from the start. Once the engine is blown, it gives me an excuse to do a full rebuild, including the installation of low compression Turbo II rotors, as well as some kind of porting (probably a mild street port).

    -as it is, "wankers" need to have MAJOR servicing every 40-50k .. with turbo, you will look at a partial re-build every summer to keep the engine in (semi)working condition.
    This is blatently wrong, and to me, demonstrates your complete lack of rotary knowledge. If this were true, Mazda would be out of business, and all RX-7s sitting somewhere in a scrap yard. The odometer on my car this weekend passsed 242,000 KM while I was cruising down the 401 at 220KM/H with 12 other RX-7s on the way back from the track.

    In the long haul, you are going with the cheap solution. Don't expect the rig to last too long - nor should you expect a reasonable performance increase (for what you have paid).
    Actually, I'm going with the expensive solution. It will cost me much more to convert the NA 6 port engine to turbo then it would to simply install a rebuilt TII engine and ECU. But I'm doing it for the experience, and experimental value.

    As for the performance increase, the NA engine is good for about 10 pounds of boost, which translates to roughly 250RWHP. In a car as light as the RX-7, that's good enough for me at this time.
    Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
    Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
    "If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."

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